its a big bore carb from akg or terryblow.. its off the gx160 from all my research it works fine.. all the hs motors stock stock carbs and hs carbs have these tiny idle jets that clog constantly thats what im talking about aliviating..
Switching to 4-stroke questions
- Thread starter littletinman
- Start date
True, get a HS , or a HF run a jackshaft, new sprocket, chain. You have parts you can use already. You should be at your budget.
Dunno from who? Sure it works, but you spent money on a carb that doesn't effectively do any better a job than the stock carb. People selling you parts will tell you anything. You claimed to have an ASE cert, so you should probably know the formula for calculating CFM. However, you went and a bought a carb, and it's not the jet that clogs easy but the atomizer, so that leads me to believe you never had an ASE cert. You remind me of those many many dudes who overcarb their engines thinking they know what they're doing
Regardless of what you claim, you bought a useless carb, IMHO. You _alleviated_ nothing but the hole in your wallet.
iits better as in the fact the stock one was even worse than this one.. this one is alittle better heavier duty etc.. same jet problems though.. there all **** motors all the hs and hondas what we need are the hf ones with gokart clutch which is what im doing
Spend 90 now and you will spend it again in a few months and again a few months later. Then when you have 3-4 that are blown apart you can start making new ones from your parts box.... took me bout 9 months to get wise to this... have fun!
Between myself, my brother Kline's Kustoms, and my honorary brother Scotto-, there's about 20,000 miles in GXH50/Huasheng experience. Add azbill and you can almost double that. Add my friend ocscully and nearly triple it. None of us run anything but a factory carb. All of us will outrun you.
I run the stock carb on the HS142. No problems at all. I am amazed at how well it controls engine rpm at any speed. I must be doing something wrong.
MAybe you could talk to these guys http://www.gasbike.net/bike-motor-kit-grubee-2011-skyhawk-4-g-t-belt-v.html, or the people at Bicycle Engines.com about just getting the engine, the mount, and a 4G gearbox. Get the gearbox without the one way bearing. I think it's the 100 / 12 one. You will want probably a 44 tooth for the rear wheel.
Do yourself a favor and don't listen to all the BS about the HS motor. Mine has ZERO problems right out of the box and I think most other HS users will tell you the same thing. 500 miles on it now.
Do yourself a favor and don't listen to all the BS about the HS motor. Mine has ZERO problems right out of the box and I think most other HS users will tell you the same thing. 500 miles on it now.
Last edited:
What makes you think our big bore carb is "over carbed"? What makes you think the hs engine cannot benefit from a carb with a larger bore? Do you really think we'll tell our customers "anything" just so we can sell them a carb that will not work better than the stock carb.? We run our parts on our bikes. Our bike running the little hs 49cc engine has done very well at past motorized bicycle races. And yes, we run it with a big bore carb just like your "honorary brother Scotto" who you claim uses the stock carb. We've sent big bore carbs to Scotto, he's ran them on his engine and given us his feedback.
Locutus_1 wants to change an o-ring every time he changes a jet...who cares? Let him change the o-ring if that's what he is comfortable doing. We never change that o-ring just like you don't but we're not going to try and make him feel like an idiot because he wants to change a $.30 o-ring. Telling him he purchased a useless carb is ridiculous!
Because it doesn't really need it. It's very common for people to put a larger carb than they need on an engine thinking it will help in their greedy quest for more power. I've seen it hundreds and hundreds of times. None of your aftermarket carbs are necessary for a 49cc engine, IMO. Maybe over 9K RPM they will help, but not 8K or less.
I didn't say it couldn't benefit, but it also doesn't really need it. The stock carb flows more than enough CFM for a typical GXH50 or HS.
I'm very aware what you do, I've been a customer of yours for over a year and I have highly recommend you to people here. So is my brother Kline's Kustoms who has 2 of your carbs. Neither did him any good at all because he doesn't rev his engine high enough. In fact his bike's low-speed driveability has suffered quite a bit with your aftermarket carbs. I've talked to Scotto- many times and he doesn't just run your carbs either.
I was pretty annoyed with several of his recent posts when I typed that, I don't think you read them, or you might not be jumping so readily to his defense. But anyway, it is my opinion that he purchased a useless carb. That's my own opinion, you don't have to agree. You being a vendor, me being a cynic, I'll expect you to say anything to sell parts, and I'll expect you to say anything to justify your customers spending their money on something they really didn't need. This post of yours has made that very evident to me.
Unless the engine is under carbed, putting a bigger carb on it will not help. If someone is modifying the engine to breath better, then yes it would. Maybe Scotto is doing a trick or two to take advantage of it? I doubt if they have NASCAR type inspections before and after.
I had a 1971 Mach 1 with a 351 Cleveland in it and changed the carb from the stock 650cfm to a Hollly 780 cfm and it made no difference in performance until I changed the camshaft to take advantage of it.
I agree with Aleman on the larger carb opinion. Just changing to a larger carb won't get much performance gain, if any.
For it to make a significant difference the entire induction system needs to be enlarged.
Larger valves and ports or at least a hotter cam, and easier breathing exhaust, now all this would make a significant difference.
There are always trade-offs though. A larger carb means that at low and mid rpm the air is moving slower than optimal speed thru the venturi, causing less than optimal atomization of the fuel, and more surface wetting of the entire intake system, allowing more raw unatomised fuel to enter the combustion chamber, so fuel efficency is reduced even when low power and rpm are used.
On most things with o-rings like hydraulics or a carb kit overhaul I always change the o-rings because they are in the kit.
On my small engines and equipment, the carbs often just get gummed up from seldom use and don't need a kit, just a good cleaning and then I commonly re-use O rings if they appear serviceable.
For it to make a significant difference the entire induction system needs to be enlarged.
Larger valves and ports or at least a hotter cam, and easier breathing exhaust, now all this would make a significant difference.
There are always trade-offs though. A larger carb means that at low and mid rpm the air is moving slower than optimal speed thru the venturi, causing less than optimal atomization of the fuel, and more surface wetting of the entire intake system, allowing more raw unatomised fuel to enter the combustion chamber, so fuel efficency is reduced even when low power and rpm are used.
On most things with o-rings like hydraulics or a carb kit overhaul I always change the o-rings because they are in the kit.
On my small engines and equipment, the carbs often just get gummed up from seldom use and don't need a kit, just a good cleaning and then I commonly re-use O rings if they appear serviceable.
Just as a fellow member, I think it is a bad idea to speak for others not in the conversation. Puts them in a tuff position. Just sayin'
We all get passionate about these things but they really are still just perfectly good bicycles that we strap motors on.
But speaking to the original question posed. 4 smokes are really a joy reliability wise. An excellent choice with that as the goal L-Man.
Just a thought but might be less $ to buy a whole 4 stroke kit rather then cherry picking parts. Would need an engine, another rear sprocket (depending on what your running now) an engine mount and a gear box. So for less money, you would end up with a spare gas tank, clutch handle, no longer needed and a throttle.
Build some thing cool! Looking forward to what you come up with L-Man.
We all get passionate about these things but they really are still just perfectly good bicycles that we strap motors on.
But speaking to the original question posed. 4 smokes are really a joy reliability wise. An excellent choice with that as the goal L-Man.
Just a thought but might be less $ to buy a whole 4 stroke kit rather then cherry picking parts. Would need an engine, another rear sprocket (depending on what your running now) an engine mount and a gear box. So for less money, you would end up with a spare gas tank, clutch handle, no longer needed and a throttle.
Build some thing cool! Looking forward to what you come up with L-Man.
Another "just a thought" A lot of folks new to 4 stroke/pull starts end up having problems with the pull starter due to wailing and yanking on it. I, as well used to do this. But the way I start em is is gently pull a couple of times just to turn the engine over so as to move the oil around and work the piston. Then on the 3rd gentle pull, I pull it until there is resistance. Allow the pull cord to recoil. Don't let it go and snap back in. In a sharp, not yanking wildly motion, pull start the engine.
Terrific info Dan ,well written thanks mate. ..Warm up its muscles before it goes to work.. Its a bit lazy but has anyone thought about having a key start on the 4 stroke? 
Sure thing Sam. Ive purchased a 12 volt (small style )battery. Going to run 12v indicators, so maybe thats a step toward a key set up..hehe