help getting a 2 stroke started

J

jasons20001

New Member
Hey everyone!

hHaving some problems getting started. I tried to kick start it (lifting the back wheel) and ride it down a hill and start it that way. Each time, it makes rum rum sound (or sometimes a loud pop) but that's about it.

Things I have tried are...
I changed the spark pug (some of the posts said NGK B6hs was better).
I am using a 16 parts gasoline to 1 part oil (like the site told me to).

Any help would be welcomed :) Thank you

this is the site where i got my kit (if that helps)?
http://www.biketomopedkit.com/
 
Well, you need 3 things for engine to run.

1. Fuel a: First of all, your mixture has excessive oil and will be hard to start. For now, just go with 40:1 and once you get it running, you can add extra oil into the tank to get it to 25-32:1 for engine break in. I don't think 16:1 will run in my broke in engine.
Fuel b: Remove filter in petcock valve and install inline filter
Fuel c: Drain carb sump of that rich oil/fuel mixture, remove carb and ensure float and float tines are set properly.

2. Spark. Check spark. If no spark, check wires on magneto to ensure cold weld hasn't caused wire to break or have bad contact. Disconnect kill switch. Stock spark plug is just fine for first several hours use.

3. Air. Remove airfilter for now. No need for it until you get your engine running reliabily. if you have spark, use some ether sprayed into carb barrel for first start.
 
I really have not seen it mentioned explicitly, but how much throttle should one give when starting a China Girl? I saw a post where Biknut mentioned he rolls on the throttle.

Like my weed eater, my HT takes a good amount of throttle to get going. Without throttle, I am sure it would eventually start, but that would take quite a bit of distance, lol.

Here is my starting procedure when the motor is cold:

- Get the bike rolling with the clutch pulled in, maybe 8-10 mph
- Dump the clutch and keep pedaling, while giving full throttle (no choke, my motor really does not seem to like the choke, lol)
- When the motor catches, pull the clutch and modulate the throttle between half and full throttle until the motor can idle on its own with the clutch still pulled in, maybe after 10 - 15s?

Does that sounds right, or should these little motors not need extra throttle to get going? Mine has an NT carb, BTW, and still at the 24:1 break-in mix.

Jason, I have read that others who have had problems getting their motors to even start ended up finding that the culprit was the clutch was slipping too much and did not allow the motor to turn over enough to get it to catch.
 
choke/enrichen circuit is disconnected on my 48 w/cns.

from cold, it starts easily at level ground pedal speed, within 100ft at most, with the throttle off, then barely rolling it on, here and there til it pops.
I take it slow for another 100ft, then make my way easily up the small rise for 600ft.
Then it's ready to go.

And that's all MAX it would ever need. Many times it will fire at the end of the 20ft driveway as I hit the street, but I still make the same warmup run every time before going for normal run speed. lol at a blazing 17mph cruising speed gutter ride! lol

When already ridden, and warm? 5ft-6ft at pedal speed... good to go.

Best
rc
 
Thanks everyone for the help:) still not starting tho :(. Tryed changing the gas's and I do have spark, didn't spray that starter stuff in the engine (worried it would explode and I would like to have kids someday...). I was talking to a co worker about and he told me about a friend of his who may be able to help.. Once we find out what's wrong I'll post it here :)
 
jasons20001 said:
Thanks everyone for the help:) still not starting tho :(. Tryed changing the gas's and I do have spark, didn't spray that starter stuff in the engine (worried it would explode and I would like to have kids someday...). I was talking to a co worker about and he told me about a friend of his who may be able to help.. Once we find out what's wrong I'll post it here :)
Click to expand...
If you use starter fluid, it will start if it's going too. Just use a very short spray, like a second into the carburetor. I drilled a hole in my filter cover, but it can be applied with the filter cover off. I drilled the hole as that is the way I start my engine every time. If it starts, you have fuel delivery problems, if it won't start you have either electrical (timing) or vacuum/compression problems.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. Nothing was working so i ended up calling the company that i got it from and they told me to make the blue wire go to the black and the black to the blue. Once i did this it started up right away!

But i did want to say thanks for the suport and the help everyone!
 
jasons20001 said:
Thanks everyone for the help. Nothing was working so i ended up calling the company that i got it from and they told me to make the blue wire go to the black and the black to the blue. Once i did this it started up right away!

But i did want to say thanks for the suport and the help everyone!
Click to expand...

That's a first on me.... I don't know if anyone ran across that, but I doubt I could figured it out, if so it would be some time. I'll have to remember that, one in a thousand, screw up. Thanks for reporting back.
 
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its cool when confirmed fixes are posted.
it seems an odd fault like this with a confirmed repair should somehow be posted where others could find it.
well i guess it's in ron's head now so its saved in memory.
glad you got it running.
Frank.
 
tooljunkie said:
its cool when confirmed fixes are posted.
it seems an odd fault like this with a confirmed repair should somehow be posted where others could find it.
well i guess it's in ron's head now so its saved in memory.
glad you got it running.
Frank.
Click to expand...

No sir, it will go into one of my Docs.
 
Is there a chance that swapping the blue and black wires would cause damage to the CDI? I would hate to have that as a troubleshooting step if it might end up frying the unit, unless as a last resort.
 
hah!

we've seen just about everything else done bass ackwards by the various factories that build these... why not expect crossed mag leads from time to time?

:-)
rc
 
maurtis said:
Is there a chance that swapping the blue and black wires would cause damage to the CDI? I would hate to have that as a troubleshooting step if it might end up frying the unit, unless as a last resort.
Click to expand...

Well it was wired wrong (to get it to run) to begin with?????

I added it to my Docs. Mentioned as a last resort.

18. Wiring... BLACK coil wire to BLACK CDI wire, BLUE coil wire to BLUE
CDI wire. Do not use bicycle frame as a ground, it will work but may cause
problems later on. There has been one exception, a member ran into. Since he couldn’t get it to start, he called the vendor, and vendor told him to reverse the wires. Blue to black, and black to blue. This is the ONLY time I have run across this in 3 years.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GcesQihc7-mm3hJGf7UPiqOaRXZ8ekUT99QUZq2qXXE/edit
 
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