new spark plug wire ?'s

anim8r

anim8r

New Member
The spark plug wire that came with my kit was apparently made of 50% rubber & 50% food. The boot just started decaying. (Big surprise, ain't it? lol)

So I went to O'reilly's & got a new wire with an angled boot on one end & a straight one on the other. When I put the plug in the straight end, there's quite a bit of flexibility. (Click the pic for video)


The tip of the spark plug goes into the metal receiving tip, but it doesn't click or anything. Is it supposed to? Should there be this much flexibility in the boot? Will it still work or is it a reliability issue?

The other end is labeled that it's supposed to go to the distributor cap/CDI....but it doesn't really matter, does it? I mean as long as it fits?
 
The rubber portion of your new wire seems to be made for the skinnier spark plug types. Also the rubber portion seems too long. The internal connector never reaches the end of the spark plug. One last possible issue, is the connector up inside the spark plug boot made to use a ferrule type spark plug or a threaded one? They are not compatible, the spark plug usually can be changed by either installing a ferrule (usually supplied with the spark plug) or removing it (note some spark plugs do not have a removable ferrule).
 
the ferrule....that must be the little thing the guy at the 2-stroke shop took off the plug he sold me.

Yup....looks like I gotta head back over there for a proper wire.

I should have been leery of the situation when I realized how difficult it was for the O'reilly's clerk to get the info I needed. Since I didn't have a CAR to match it up with, they had to look it up by spark plug brand & then go through all the different types of machines it could possibly go to....snowblowers, weeedwhackers, snowmobiles, leafblowers, lawnmowers, etc. etc......and guess what? There's no section for "crappy Chinese-built, mystery-brand 2 strokers designed to mount to a bicycle". They said the wire I bought was the closest they could figure. (What are those countertop computers hooked up to -- the plumbing??)
Glad I've got the receipt & haven't cut the new wire yet.

Thanks for the info
 
If you replace the spark plug with a better quality, possibly a NGK B6HS, the wire and boot that you bought will fit it. The plastic boot that comes with the kit is made to fit a plug that either has no top cap (ferrule) or one that the cap has been removed from.

If you elect to return the wire ask for wire with a metallic, preferably copper, core. It's a good bet that what ORileys sold you is resistance wire that has no metal conductor. They will work but the metallic core wire is a better choice for our little low power ignition systems.
Tom
 
anim8r said:
the ferrule....that must be the little thing the guy at the 2-stroke shop took off the plug he sold me.

Yup....looks like I gotta head back over there for a proper wire.

I should have been leery of the situation when I realized how difficult it was for the O'reilly's clerk to get the info I needed. Since I didn't have a CAR to match it up with, they had to look it up by spark plug brand & then go through all the different types of machines it could possibly go to....snowblowers, weeedwhackers, snowmobiles, leafblowers, lawnmowers, etc. etc......and guess what? There's no section for "crappy Chinese-built, mystery-brand 2 strokers designed to mount to a bicycle". They said the wire I bought was the closest they could figure. (What are those countertop computers hooked up to -- the plumbing??)
Glad I've got the receipt & haven't cut the new wire yet.

Thanks for the info
Click to expand...

What do you expect from someone making minimum wage and hasn't even turned a wrench on a vehicle. Sometimes I think that some are lucky to even be able to get behind the wheel...At least that's the way I feel with dealing with some of them. Most, all they know is how to punch keys on a keyboard.
 
2door said:
If you replace the spark plug with a better quality, possibly a NGK B6HS, the wire and boot that you bought will fit it. The plastic boot that comes with the kit is made to fit a plug that either has no top cap (ferrule) or one that the cap has been removed from.

If you elect to return the wire ask for wire with a metallic, preferably copper, core. It's a good bet that what ORileys sold you is resistance wire that has no metal conductor. They will work but the metallic core wire is a better choice for our little low power ignition systems.
Tom
Click to expand...

I've got an NGK BP5HS on it now. I like it, but the wire is getting to be so crappy it doesn't even matter. I'll probably head back to the 2-stroke shop tomorrow for a replacement wire if this old one will last the short trip.
I don't know why I even bother with big-box car part shops sometimes.... they just don't get it.
 
LOL, I've related this story before but I'll repost it again:

I needed a rebuild kit for a Holly 4 barrel carburetor. I went to ORileys and asked for the kit by number. The counter man couldn't find it on his computer but while he was searching I see the kit I need hanging on a pegboard behind him. After several minutes of looking he finally said, "Sorry, we don't have that kit, but, we can order it for you." I pointed over his shoulder and said, "That's okay. I'll take that one hanging there behind you."
I left with the carb kit I came in for. Not only do they not know what they have but if they can't locate it by make, model and year, you're usually out of luck. He was looking for a Holly kit for a 4 barrel carb for a 1930 Ford :)

Tom
 
Ok, I give.....how the heck do I hook this stuff together?

PICT0073.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Thread the wire through the plug boot, then take the coiled holder and insert it into the wire from the side. Pull wire out and the coil will be in the boot.



Use something like WD-40 as a lube to make it easier. WD-40 is a moisture barrier.
 
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2 questions:
1)you mean I actually pierce the wire with the little jabby hook part of the spring?
2) does the spring end up wrapped around the tip of the spark plug, OR does the outside of the spring contact the spark plug tip? (Or am I looking at this COMPLETELY wrong?)
I've never seen a a setup like this
 
anim8r said:
2 questions:
1)you mean I actually pierce the wire with the little jabby hook part of the spring?
2) does the spring end up wrapped around the tip of the spark plug, OR does the outside of the spring contact the spark plug tip? (Or am I looking at this COMPLETELY wrong?)
I've never seen a a setup like this
Click to expand...

1)you mean I actually pierce the wire with the little jabby hook part of the spring?
Yes...Make sure that the hook is into the wire.

2) does the spring end up wrapped around the tip of the spark plug, OR does the outside of the spring contact the spark plug tip? (Or am I looking at this COMPLETELY wrong?)

Al.Fisherman said:
Thread the wire through the plug boot, then take the coiled holder and insert it into the wire from the side. Pull wire out and the coil will be in the boot.



Use something like WD-40 as a lube to make it easier. WD-40 is a moisture barrier.
Click to expand...

That is a good wire set up, the second best I've seen. I use a different one...has a Rajah clip for the plug.
 
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anim8r said:
lol I've been looking all over for a drawing like that. Thanks Ron
Click to expand...

This is what I prefer.....
With this terminal you have a 100% connection between the plug wire and spark plug 100% of the time. I used these clips as far back as 1964, building engines, without any failures.

You welcome.. :>)
 
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I stripped a little bit of the insulation off the wire, then bent the exposed wires over the jabby hook part of the spring....I figure that might help secure the connection a little
 
I'm not sure about that coil spring thingy. I've never seen one like it.

I prefer a good automotive quality boot and metal connector. I'm sort of anal about these things so I solder the wire to the connector before installing into the rubber boot.

I also like this silicone based grease that makes pulling the wire and connector into the boot easier and seals out moisture.
Just me, Al's method will work just fine too.
Tom
 

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2Door...The spring coil is used in many lawn equipment applications. Like I mentioned I prefer the Rajah clip, no worry about moisture gathering in the boot, but then again my bikes are stored in my garage. The Rajah clips can be used many years...longer then any engine will last. Unless you step on it and break the insulator, the last one needed to buy. All three will work tho without much maintenance.
 
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