Does anyone know if the 4G t Belt drive would work on a Trike? I have a Schwinn Meridian and would like to add that motor kit to it. It would have to be mounted in the rear of the trike as the frame is a low step type.
4G T Belt Drive Installation Problems BlowByU Is Here For You
- Thread starter Terry Blow
- Start date
Sorry Terry, I posted this from work before I could check my email and didn't realize you had responded so quickly. I don't have a digital camera currently so I can't post pics for now. I don't have much technical know how, so I don't know about modding it myself, I was hoping for more of a "bolt on" solution.
Basically, I can build just about anything if I have a kit and all the necessary parts, but metal working is outta my league! 
well I have added a bunch of items to my website have a look at them there maybe something you can use and the Tricycle frame on my page has some good close ups
Hey Terry,
How have you been installing the 4-G clutch bushing/bell bolts? In one of your videos it shows you just using the large washer. In the grubee instructions it shows using a small washer as well. Check out these photos. 2 show installing it with just the large washer, and the large washer applies the clutch bolt pressure to the oil-lite bushing. The other 2 show installing it with both the large washer (to keep oil-lite bushing from sliding) as well as a small washer, which applies the bolt pressure to the spacer. As you can see, installing it with the small washer creates a small gap between the large washer and the oi-lite bushing. Using the small washer allows both the inner and outer surfaces of the oil-lite bushing to spin freely. Was curious what was working for you and others as well. I also included a 5th pic for reference.
Thanks in advance
How have you been installing the 4-G clutch bushing/bell bolts? In one of your videos it shows you just using the large washer. In the grubee instructions it shows using a small washer as well. Check out these photos. 2 show installing it with just the large washer, and the large washer applies the clutch bolt pressure to the oil-lite bushing. The other 2 show installing it with both the large washer (to keep oil-lite bushing from sliding) as well as a small washer, which applies the bolt pressure to the spacer. As you can see, installing it with the small washer creates a small gap between the large washer and the oi-lite bushing. Using the small washer allows both the inner and outer surfaces of the oil-lite bushing to spin freely. Was curious what was working for you and others as well. I also included a 5th pic for reference.
Thanks in advance
Attachments
I had lost my bolt, washers, and spacer on a ride a few months ago. So it was off to Ace Hardware:
1/4-28 allen bolt (yours may be Metric), 1/4" lock washer, 1/4" stainless fender washer, 1/2" thick nylon bushing shaved down to ~3/8".
Works great! I put a few drops of Marvel Lubricating Oil on the bushing flange once or twice a week after a ride to keep it smooth.
Hi what you have is the newer 4G there was many things wrong with the first 5/8 shaft 4G and now the have improved a few things thank you for posting the new information
Cheers
Terry
Wow, a slotted retaining bolt......that would be the first thing I replaced on that set-up with a high grade hex bolt. China, China, China.......no surprise really.
I'm confused about all of the 4G issues. I want to know what has to be done to the new 4g's to make them bulletproof. Can anyone be specific? I've read that some welding is required among other modifications.
Terry, could you help a guy out? Any chance you could sell your kits with these "bullet proof" improvements? I wish to buy a 4 stroke shifter kit but there is so much information to sort thru that its a little frustrating.
Many thanks!
Terry, could you help a guy out? Any chance you could sell your kits with these "bullet proof" improvements? I wish to buy a 4 stroke shifter kit but there is so much information to sort thru that its a little frustrating.
Many thanks!
I'm assuming you mean the "Honda" style 4G. That's the only one that fits properly on the shift kit without mods.
I can cover everything you need to do, as I was one of the first to do that. But you should make your own thread in the 4-stroke section.
This is also so you do not hijack this thread; more people may see it, and you'll get a wider range of advice.
I can cover everything you need to do, as I was one of the first to do that. But you should make your own thread in the 4-stroke section.
This is also so you do not hijack this thread; more people may see it, and you'll get a wider range of advice.
The 4G I've been running for the past couple years has been nearly bulletproof. In 12,000 miles it has only broken the cheap clutch bell it came with, snapped only one belt and wore out the 11t freewheel sprocket. All these little repairs cost me $24 in parts and I'm still using the original clutch!
That's pretty hard to beat and it's very reliable.
That's pretty hard to beat and it's very reliable.
Hey Bubba-1
The problems have been only with the 4G kits that have a one-way bearing in the driven pulley (option 3 listed below). There is not a replacement bearing that I know of that is readily available to solve the problem. You can avoid the one-way bearing by getting a 4G kit that has a solid pulley and 12T freewheel sprocket (option 1 listed below). You could also just replace the one-way pulley with a solid pulley. Keep in mind it is advisable to keep a one-way somewhere in the setup so that when pedaling you are not having to rotate the belt and pulleys as well. It also is a safety concern if you remove the one-way: if the motor seizes and the clutch does not release (it should theoretically) then the back wheel will lock up. So a one-way HD axle is recommended in this setup(option 2 listed below). Basically your 4G options:
1. Solid pulley and one-way drive sprocket (12T one-way sprocket is more durable than 11T one-way sprocket). Use regular included clam-type sprocket on spokes or solid HD axle kit. This should available from your dealer without any additional upgrades needed. Just specify that you want a 4G kit with the solid pulley and 12T freewheel.
2. Solid pulley and solid drive sprocket. With this configuration you will need a HD axle kit with one-way. This is probably the most preferred method, but it is the most expensive.
3. Freewheel pulley and solid drive sprocket. This is the configuration that some people are having problems with the one-way bearings. In this setup you would use the clam-type sprockets on spokes or a solid HD axle kit.
To me, option 1 makes the most sense. It is cheapest, and if the one-way goes bad it is an inexpensive part to replace and easy to get to. Option 2 would pedal the most efficient with the motor off due to the one-way being located at the rear wheel. When your pedaling, you wouldn't be rotating the motor side chain.
Hope this helps
The problems have been only with the 4G kits that have a one-way bearing in the driven pulley (option 3 listed below). There is not a replacement bearing that I know of that is readily available to solve the problem. You can avoid the one-way bearing by getting a 4G kit that has a solid pulley and 12T freewheel sprocket (option 1 listed below). You could also just replace the one-way pulley with a solid pulley. Keep in mind it is advisable to keep a one-way somewhere in the setup so that when pedaling you are not having to rotate the belt and pulleys as well. It also is a safety concern if you remove the one-way: if the motor seizes and the clutch does not release (it should theoretically) then the back wheel will lock up. So a one-way HD axle is recommended in this setup(option 2 listed below). Basically your 4G options:
1. Solid pulley and one-way drive sprocket (12T one-way sprocket is more durable than 11T one-way sprocket). Use regular included clam-type sprocket on spokes or solid HD axle kit. This should available from your dealer without any additional upgrades needed. Just specify that you want a 4G kit with the solid pulley and 12T freewheel.
2. Solid pulley and solid drive sprocket. With this configuration you will need a HD axle kit with one-way. This is probably the most preferred method, but it is the most expensive.
3. Freewheel pulley and solid drive sprocket. This is the configuration that some people are having problems with the one-way bearings. In this setup you would use the clam-type sprockets on spokes or a solid HD axle kit.
To me, option 1 makes the most sense. It is cheapest, and if the one-way goes bad it is an inexpensive part to replace and easy to get to. Option 2 would pedal the most efficient with the motor off due to the one-way being located at the rear wheel. When your pedaling, you wouldn't be rotating the motor side chain.
Hope this helps
Yes I can help you with a kit that is bullet proof well as close as the 4G can get to bullet proof.
I will have a machinist make a free wheel replacement that is solid billet aluminum not sure what they will cost at this point.
I am hoping to help you with this but I may be leaving home to work in the oil fields time will tell I will call the machinist Monday
heres my dilemia my 4g with the 5-1 12tooh sprocket sits to close to the bike frame almost rubing up against it ive moved the engine as far to the left as i can but the output shaft is insanely to long .
i atempted to grind out my wigle room in the mount plate that got me maybe a half inch .
could i purchase a output shaft for the 10t they claim its 14 MM shorter and still use my 12 tooth sprocket ?
14mm would give me just what i need is thier any other tricks anyone knows of besides this ?
http://http://www.bicycle-engines.com/output-shaft-p-325.html
link to bicycle-engines.com were i bought my 4g this links to the 10th output shaft .
http://http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/4G/4G%20V%20frame%20Instructions%20Straight%20Shaft.htm
heres a link to grubee were they show the diference in length . i know terrys kinda busy but if anyone has any ideas im all ears i can get a pic after work tonight if anyone wants one but am traped at work for the next ten hours
i atempted to grind out my wigle room in the mount plate that got me maybe a half inch .
could i purchase a output shaft for the 10t they claim its 14 MM shorter and still use my 12 tooth sprocket ?
14mm would give me just what i need is thier any other tricks anyone knows of besides this ?
http://http://www.bicycle-engines.com/output-shaft-p-325.html
link to bicycle-engines.com were i bought my 4g this links to the 10th output shaft .
http://http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/4G/4G%20V%20frame%20Instructions%20Straight%20Shaft.htm
heres a link to grubee were they show the diference in length . i know terrys kinda busy but if anyone has any ideas im all ears i can get a pic after work tonight if anyone wants one but am traped at work for the next ten hours
