You could also put a small sheet metal screw to keep the tensioner from twisting.
http://motorbicycling.com/f3/chain-tensioner-modification-764.html
http://motorbicycling.com/f3/chain-tensioner-modification-764.html
trouble with rear sprocket/chain
- Thread starter brucemg51
- Start date
I love how most people can eventually answer their own questions if they just keep trying to find the real problem.
(Now, aren't you glad you didn't bend your frame?)
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You're right about answering your own questions if you look hard enough for the answer.I love how most people can eventually answer their own questions if they just keep trying to find the real problem.
(Now, aren't you glad you didn't bend your frame?)
Being an old motorcycle mechanic, I've bent a lot of frames. It's very common practice to heat a section of a frame with a torch and modify it. I've also cut off sections of frames, bolted frame sections together and brazed or welded frame sections. On my first MB build, I was putting a multi-sprocketed wheel in place of the original coaster brake wheel. I discovered that the rear fork had to be wider in order to accept the new wheel. I simply heated some key sections of the frame with a MAPP torch and applied the right pressure to widen the space between the members of the rear for. No problemo. The new wheel fit just fine. Of course, it's something I'd rather not have to do, but really, it ain't a big deal at all.
I did that with the handlebars. I've mounted a set of bars from a 1982 Yamaha motorcycle. No matter how much I tightened the clamp, the bars would still come loose, so I drilled a small hole through the clamp into the bars and inserted a sheet metal screw. It worked!