Black-n-Blue...
- Thread starter scotto-
- Start date
From the cockpit, the pilots veiw of the instramentation.....where's all the switches and lights?
Other than making the fat top tube of these aluminum cruisers into a gas tank, the only way I like em is on the back......that's just me. Motor on the rear, or gas tank on the rear.....I opt for the gas tank.
My gas tank of choice:
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Where's the "Beam me up, Scotty" transponder dealy? Need one a those.
Bike is looking good.
Another question on a remotely relevant subject on your other build. Forget what that thread is called. Anyway, a little birdie told me you are planning to use the Grainger adjustable pulley on your Greyhound EZM build. What's the deal with that? I'm also starting a 51 Schwinn build with the same engine/tranny and want to know about that pulley, the how comes, and what fors and how muches and does it make it so you can kind of dial in the gearing? And why not on this build? Curious I am.
SB
Bike is looking good.
Another question on a remotely relevant subject on your other build. Forget what that thread is called. Anyway, a little birdie told me you are planning to use the Grainger adjustable pulley on your Greyhound EZM build. What's the deal with that? I'm also starting a 51 Schwinn build with the same engine/tranny and want to know about that pulley, the how comes, and what fors and how muches and does it make it so you can kind of dial in the gearing? And why not on this build? Curious I am.
SB
Hey silverbear, yes, that little birdie knows of what he speaks. Going with the variable pulley for the reason of dialing in the gearing using different belts. The reason I haven't gone this route with the black-n-blue is the gearing is working fine as it came...not too mention the variable pulley costs a hair over $20. That's pretty much it..... if you want any particulars, feel free to ask.
scotto-
Got to have closer pictures of the clear cover... how'd ja do that? I've been thinking about a copper cover which would be expensive and a whole lot of work and was even thinking about a stained glass copper foiled inset on the face panel (like a tiffany lampshade) with some clear glass in it to see glimpses of machinery at work, an interesting idea which will probably never happen. This is nice. This is simple. Is there any chance at all of clothing or something getting caught in the rear part of the belt pathway? I wonder how difficult it is to heat form plexiglass, or heat it enough to bend. Probably pretty high tech and not something your gonna do with a hair dryer. Nice job, Scotto.
SB
SB
Closer Clear as glass....ready for scratches....
I'd like to say my bike is nearly finished, but you know how that goes! More parts are on the way...
I'd like to say my bike is nearly finished, but you know how that goes! More parts are on the way...
#1 is Good, ...but, dang can you change your front rim?
jk jk,
I have my 'stock' ready to shop on anything tires already. Heh heh.
It looks Perfect. I'll try to get that under rack tank on her while I'm at it.
Thanks a mil.
jk jk,
I have my 'stock' ready to shop on anything tires already. Heh heh.It looks Perfect. I'll try to get that under rack tank on her while I'm at it.
Thanks a mil.
Just added a v-brake to the rear in addition to the band brake that came on the HD wheel set-up. Both rear brakes operate off a single lever with dual cable pull. This has some serious stopping power now.....
And again killercanuck, great job on the bike cards....much appreciated!!!
And again killercanuck, great job on the bike cards....much appreciated!!!
Good idea on the rear brake. If I'm seeing things correctly you have used the bolt holding the kickstand and two stainless steel clamps to the frame to secure the V brake apparatus. Is that right? Between it and the band brake the rear wheel should have lots of braking power.
SB
SB
You got it Silverbear, that's exactly how it's attached. I also made a wedge out of 3/8" stainless steel with a hole for the kickstand bolt to go through and fits snug between the the chainstays. It stiffens the support of the adapter. The wedge is approx. 1-1/2"L x 1"W. and you can barely see it in this pic, it has 2 little holes in it.
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