Does installing an extended exhaust keep our clothes from smelling?

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tyrslider

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Sep 26, 2008
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If we're takin' a poll, Lady FireBelly says plain ol' gas and oil over StrawBerry, BubbleGum, ButterScotch, CottonCandy etc. any day!

"At least you smell like a man" Lady FireBelly

Cheers!
 
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Patr1ck

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Apr 15, 2010
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Tempe, AZ
Well said silver :)

I would jus' like to add that ANY oil, synthetic or otherwise will be prone to undue carbon build up and deposits if used far in excess of the manufacturer's recommendation.

85-90:1 with a 100:1 synthetic or 40:1 w/a 50:1 synthetic is about as much as I'd push it and even then only during break in and/or you notice excessive heat. Something crazed like 32:1 with a 100 or even 50:1 synthetic is jus' beggin' for goo gummin' up the works ;)

Followin' the (oil) manufacturer's recommendation is yer best bet and remember - yer spark plug tells no lies :D
With that said, would you run a 100:1 oil in 115 degree summer heat. Im curious if the lesser amount of oil will run the engine too hot in the summer heat here. Thanks guys.

Pat
 

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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Yes... but I can't say nothin' as I've not done it ...yet :D

I've run my other build on 50:1 Amsoil 'Injector' and shamelessly abused it for roughly 4000 miles (year-round daily driver) but I just switched to Amsoil 100:1 in both that and my new ride...

I'll get back to ya in a coupla thousand miles... but don't hold yer breath for a 115 degree day in Maine anytime soon :p
 

Fabian

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Sep 9, 2009
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Australia - Melbourne
rotfl 100:1

If you're not interested in getting to your destination, 100:1 will be perfect for you.

I on the other hand want the reliability to get to my destination, although the price paid for such luxury is to be covered with dirty, filthy black greasy bituminous stinky, smelly tar like goo, and the requirement to have a shower at my destination and carry a spare change of clean clothes in a sealed plastic bag.

Fabian
 

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
rotfl 100:1

If you're not interested in getting to your destination, 100:1 will be perfect for you.

I on the other hand want the reliability to get to my destination, although the price paid for such luxury is to be covered with dirty, filthy black greasy bituminous stinky, smelly tar like goo, and the requirement to have a shower at my destination and carry a spare change of clean clothes in a sealed plastic bag.

Fabian
Unless you've tried it keep these remarks to yourself. Opti-2 @100:1 has performed perfectly for me and others as well. If you're not convinced, so be it but there is sufficient evidence to the contrary.
Tom
 

rockhopper

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Mar 20, 2010
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Phoenix, AZ
rotfl 100:1

If you're not interested in getting to your destination, 100:1 will be perfect for you.

I on the other hand want the reliability to get to my destination, although the price paid for such luxury is to be covered with dirty, filthy black greasy bituminous stinky, smelly tar like goo, and the requirement to have a shower at my destination and carry a spare change of clean clothes in a sealed plastic bag.

Fabian
I'm not sure everyone here is picking up on your location. AUS can be a very hot, dry, place with mega fine dust. Very different than the riding conditions of the northerners.
 
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Patr1ck

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Apr 15, 2010
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Tempe, AZ
Unless you've tried it keep these remarks to yourself. Opti-2 @100:1 has performed perfectly for me and others as well. If you're not convinced, so be it but there is sufficient evidence to the contrary.
Tom
What are your summers like there? Comparable to Phoenix, or are you in the mountains?

Pat
 

Fabian

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Sep 9, 2009
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Australia - Melbourne
The hottest day i've experienced in Victoria (lower latitude and cooler of the states is 47 degrees (116.6 degrees fahrenheit) last summer during the bushfires but it generally sits on around 38 degrees (100.4 degrees fahrenheit) in summer.

The central interior of Australia gets up to 52 degrees (125.6 degrees fahrenheit) in the shade on the hottest of days.

I'm not sure how 100:1 would cope with those kind of temperatures.

Fabian
 

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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In those conditions I'd be more inclined to run a quality synthetic for it's performance characteristics... but that's me lol

...no one's telling you to try it, but unless you have - how would you know?
 

Fabian

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Sep 9, 2009
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Australia - Melbourne
What gets missed in these "oil debates" is the fact that 2-stroke oil (especially in an air cooled engine) serves two purposes: firstly as a lubricant, but secondly as a piston ring sealant.

The second function is almost always understated or dismissed.
In an air cooled engine with minimal amounts of air flow, bore distortion becomes a significant issue, particularly on the exhaust side.
This is where 20:1 plays an important part in preventing or reducing blowby.

A third aspect that oil plays in this scenario is heat extraction.
An air cooled engine has a fixed amount of cooling surfaces - the only way to manage localised hot spots is by means of thermal transfer to oil, as it's the only parameter that can be changed to suit conditions.
More oil = greater heat extraction, with a suitable jetting change.

Fabian
 

BarelyAWake

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o_O

Wait... are you recommending a 20:1 mix??? That's extreme by any standard and will result in undue amounts of carbon and deposits even with a basic nonsynthetic... no wonder yer covered in "dirty, filthy black greasy bituminous stinky, smelly tar like goo" lol

Your theory is sound, but you've way overestimated it's execution - no matter the heat or application I'd not run any more than 32:1 with a nonsynthetic (following the oil manufacturer's recommendations ofc).


Yer not runnin' regular old 10w30 motor oil are you?
 
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Fabian

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Sep 9, 2009
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I never said you had to run 20:1 in your engine, but it's the ratio of choice for me after a lot of exhaustive (sorry the pun) research on this topic relating to the typically low quality Chinese 2-stroke bicycle engines that are currently available.

Fabian
 

tyrslider

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Sep 26, 2008
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I'm not sure everyone here is picking up on your location. AUS can be a very hot, dry, place with mega fine dust. Very different than the riding conditions of the northerners.
Good lookin out RH!

Fabian, I thought I detected an Aussie sense of humor!

Interesting to note that in a 2 smoke the proper gasoline w/ the proper jetting and mix ratio will provide a burn temperature that helps regulate engine temperature. If all are not in place it doesn't run right and will likely run hot!

The more oil the leaner the gas and vise-versa. So if your not going to rejet you need to find the right mix ratio to get the proper air fuel mixture for good power and proper cooling while still getting sufficient lubrication.

This can be done as follows

Buy a box of spark plugs, a qt. of 30w oil, 87 octane (unless it has like 9:1 compression or better and it doesn't unless you made it so) gas, a few gas cans and a lb. of patience.

Find a friend (someone who'll share the patience you bought earlier w/ you) and place where you can run a mile or two (preferably 2) full throttle. w/ parking lot on both ends for your chaser vehicle.

Warm your bike up be for you test.

Start w/ the highest oil to lowest fuel ratio you think you might need and work the other direction.

Put a new plug in w/ the engine warm and run it full throttle for the 1-2 mi. Pull in the clutch and kill the motor. Pull the plug and "read" it; your looking for a dark blond color lighter is lean (gas) and darker is rich (gas).

If it's really off and running poorly there can be conflicting readings. But if your bike is already running pretty good then your likely pretty close and this is not a daunting task.

Get it as rich (gas) as you can w/o fouling the plug and you've found the proper mix ratio for your set up and you can now pick up a good synthetic that falls at or near your new found ratio.

Between ratio changes you'll need to completely remove all fuel from the crankcase and fuel system i.e. drain tank lines and carb then crankcase (in that order). Crankcase is blown out by removing the spark plug, releasing the clutch lever, and while holding in the kill switch (very important so you don't fry your cdi) pedal around a bit spinning the motor all the while pumping it free of fuel.

It, as previously stated, is important that you stay w/i the oil manufacturers recommendations. Also to get the best power and life outta your motor it's important to run it at the proper temperature by properly adjusting air fuel mix and oil ratio and exhaust and air intake etc. etc. You can run your motor lean on fuel and heavy on oil and not have it seize up but not the other way around.

It is also possible w/ hi fuel to lo oil (100:1 and similar) ratios to run your bike too rich (gas) and still have plenty of oil to lube.

Balance!

Cheers!

P.S. you can do the same "throttle chop" method to adjust your needle height once you have your o/a air fuel/oil mix ratio determined.
 
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tyrslider

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Sep 26, 2008
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More oil does not = more heat extraction. Proper burn coupled w/ sufficient cooling surface regulates temperature.

It's a complicated subject the deeper you analyze and I'm not an expert. But these motors are very tolerant of variation and seem to work at just about any ratio. The buried treasure is the power you've not found!
 

Fabian

Member
Sep 9, 2009
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Australia - Melbourne
I've been involved in amateur club motocycle racing so i'm not a novice here.

If cooling surfaces are fixed, there are only two possible ways to regulate cooling: 1) air/fuel ratio and fuel/oil ratio.

It might be lost on guys in here who are only playing with these crappy Chinese engines, but talk to anyone involved in radio controlled hobbies (such as myself) who runs pesky nitro motors and they will give good advise as to how oil content acts as a heat transfer and extraction medium and if it isn't the case, please provide explaination as to the reasons of using 4:1 oil ratio or down to 3:1 with modified high performance engines.

Fabian
 
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BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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I've been involved in amateur club motocycle racing so i'm not a novice here.

If cooling surfaces are fixed, there are only two possible ways to regulate cooling: 1) air/fuel ratio and fuel/oil ratio.

It might be lost on guys in here who are only playing with these crappy Chinese engines, but talk to anyone involved the radio controlled hobbies (such as myself) who runs pesky nitro motors and they will give good advise as to how oil content acts as a heat transfer and extraction medium.

Fabian
...and as in any hobby you'll find similar debates as this with both sides just as convinced.

Maligning people's hobbies and their experience based on nothing but assumption is a dangerous habit, at the very least a shortsighted one and guarantees that you'll only irritate, never teach or learn.

Let's get back to chatting about toys.
 

tyrslider

New Member
Sep 26, 2008
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RainCity
It's no thing actually (no worries), Fabian knows what's up. So do I; we agree. It's a take what you can and leave the rest environment!

"There's some good and some crap, take the good and leave me the crap (4 scrap)."
Evan FBC (from a craigslist free bicycle parts ad).

I'm just all hopped up on low end torque and vids to prove it (cause I'm not runnin any 2 smokes w/ scented oil). LOI

Cheers!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kNGVCnjJVs

.wee.
 
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