dynohub chargeing a battery

Dan

Dan

Staff
I am trying to figure out how to use this; Front Hubs, Sturmey Archer Dynamo Drum brake Front hub 36h, Silver, HU2200 @ eBikeStop.com - The online supplier for all your cycling needs... to charge a battery. Then run lights (and cig lighter/power supply for GPS/cel phon recharger, lol, Y keep it simple)

I have been reading for hrs and am missing some thing. Couldn't a resister and a regulator safely charge a 6V battery?

TBolt USA, LLC » Pit Bike Engine Parts » Electrical » VOLTAGE REGULATOR 6V

Please use small words and type slowly as I can not read fast
 
Was thinking about that VB. Have seen folks use it to trickle charge and have asked but never ended up being explained. That's a cool thought. I really have to learn the electrical side of things. Comes up over and over.

The bike I want to get the dyno/brake hub for is a 4 banger.

Ordering an Atlas. Big heavy cruiser. Really looking forward to this build. Gonna go all out
 
thats the same hub i'm using, don't have it wired up yet, my concern is, if the battery gets to low will it draw to many amps trying to recharge and burn up the hub, i guess i'll find out the hard way.
 
You need to convert the AC to DC with one of these.
Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers for Power Supplies - RadioShack.com
It's quite simple. The + and - terminals connect to the Battery + and -. Then the two terminals marked by the ~ get attached to the dynamo. It doesn't matter which because it is AC.
I used this on my 12v,6W bottle dynamo until the bearings went on it. I have a new dyno on order and found this -- TNC Scooters (Scooter Sales and Service) -- to use with it. It regulates for 12V and rectifies the AC to DC in one unit. However, that unit is for 12V. I think the S/A hub is 6V, 3W.
WC
 
Just lurking but I will add that a solid state voltage regulator couldn't be that hard to find, or make. Almost every small and large battery charger I've seen, except for very old ones, have a regulator built in that will reduce the charging rate as the battery voltage approaches full charge.. WayneC is correct in that the white wire produces 6 volt AC (alternating current) and that will need to be rectified to DC to charge a battery. As he said, a full bridge rectifier wired in series with the charging circuit will take care of that. I would think a little searching would come up with a small unit that would do both regulate and rectify; probably no bigger than a matchbox.
Radio Shack used to have a project book for hobbiest to build small electronic devices and circuits. I think I have an old copy. If I find anything I'll get back here.
Tom
 
Fascinating thought Tom. Could it be a simple rigging some thing like this between the dyno and battery?

6 Volt 4 Ah Power Wheels Battery Charger: BatteryMart.com

if that would work, yeeha! Light and small.

Is to be used with the soon to be patented "2 Door motor bike lighting system"

(Tom made a headlamp from an emergency hallway light. The ones you see in office and apartment buildings that come on when the power goes out. Is really kool and was waiting to do a thread on it until I actually put it on a MB)

.flg.
 
Dan,
So far all I've done was to keep my lights on to regulate charging current. But I'm running about
35W of halogens and LEDs. 6W would be break even in my case. I've got a 10W halogen on a front torpedo fender light and running that just uses a little more than I'm charging. All it does is prolong the time my battery (7ah 12V SLA) will
provide light. I'm going to add a volt and amp gauges to monitor the charge level on mine. Goal is to keep the charge (amps) as close to zero as possible
With the bottle units if you get too much charge you can simply flip it out of the way. On the hub
like you are using a switch like you mentioned might be a good idea. Just keep your wattage around
3W give-or-take and you should be good.
WC
 
Would really enjoy seeing your setup Wayne. Do you have any pics posted? Sounds awesome.

Talking about gauges, aside from function, I think they really add to the looks of a MB.

I was at walmart today. Found a "Power wheels" 6V batt and charger for around 30 bucks. Gonna try it. Whats the worse that can happen? lol, gonna mount the batt on the other side of a steel plate as a blast shield. Because every time I ask that question, some thing really, really bad happens. But normally good for a laugh in the ER when I am explaining it.
 
the link blocker is to help prevent spammers...
after 5 posts (I think ?), you can post links n pics
 
RIP sheldon Brown. That guy even knew how to use 9 speed cassettes with 10speed shifters just by mounting the cable on the other side of the cable adjustment nut.

Dan said:
Cool, is great to see the world renown "ACME LABS" working on this so we can share information on the stuff we blow up and stock destroying, snork.

In reading an article by Sheldon Brown, my concern is over charging the batt and blowing off intimate aspects of my anatomy.

In trying to learn this, I am going to use a gage. (voltmeter or a Ammeter?) and some sort of toggle switch to disconnect if needed.

Amazon.com: Sunpro CP7954 Electrical Ammeter Gauge - Black Dial: Automotive
Click to expand...
 
Wow thats really cool. Does the rectifier get hot? Can you glue it to the battery for simpler installation, after you have wired to the leads?

Did the bottle dynamo look like this?
34398.jpg


Can you make it roll on the tread of a city slicker tire instead of the sidewall?

WayneC said:
You need to convert the AC to DC with one of these.
Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers for Power Supplies - RadioShack.com
It's quite simple. The + and - terminals connect to the Battery + and -. Then the two terminals marked by the ~ get attached to the dynamo. It doesn't matter which because it is AC.
I used this on my 12v,6W bottle dynamo until the bearings went on it. I have a new dyno on order and found this -- TNC Scooters (Scooter Sales and Service) -- to use with it. It regulates for 12V and rectifies the AC to DC in one unit. However, that unit is for 12V. I think the S/A hub is 6V, 3W.
WC
Click to expand...
 
Happ,
No, the rectifier doesn't get hot at all. I don't know about gluing it to the battery; if the
"glue" would damage it in any way. Zip ties are my friend! Besides if it were to go kaboom
its easier to replace. The pic of the generator you show is exactly the ones I've used. Definately
try to mount it so it rolls on the tread area and not the sidewall as it will grind the sidewall down.
Or you could sand/file down the ridges on the spindle somewhat so they aren't as aggressive. Another
option would be to dip it in that Plasti-Dip stuff used on tool handles. That would smooth it out but
may then cause slippage.
WC
 
There are apparently touring tires made that have thick sidewalls and corresponding ridges for those dynamos, but i just want to use up cheap stock tires and shop throwaways. the effort of changing a tire on a 2 chain bike is going to be a pain, but if I get the tires for free or $10, I can deal.

I guess I'll buy one and see if I can rig it to run on the tread. If it had a rubber wheel, you could run it to roll on the rim. I've only seen that on the $300 dynamos. i thought $300 for a dynamo is stupid.
 
camlifter said:
thats the same hub i'm using, don't have it wired up yet, my concern is, if the battery gets to low will it draw to many amps trying to recharge and burn up the hub, i guess i'll find out the hard way.
Click to expand...

Any progress? I'm about to order the Sturmey-Archer Dynamo hub :D
 
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