What type of studs/bolts/allens would you recommend?

AaronF

AaronF

New Member
Just wondering your opinion of mounting your engine/muffler with what type of hardware do you prefer that actually holds into place without daily adjustments?

I've noticed that the stock studs that come with the engine kits are no good compared to your average bolts,they strip out easy or they break into pieces.

Any suggestions would be great,Thank You!
 
If someone will make a list of the bolts that are needed,i well ask a cousin of mine who ownes a major bolt co.to supply some to me and i will stock them.My cost will be your cost.aircraft bolts and grade 8.HD
 
AaronF said:
Just wondering your opinion of mounting your engine/muffler with what type of hardware do you prefer that actually holds into place without daily adjustments?

I've noticed that the stock studs that come with the engine kits are no good compared to your average bolts,they strip out easy or they break into pieces.

Any suggestions would be great,Thank You!
Click to expand...

The supplied hardware is junk. Mostly soft garbage steel, but sometimes brittle and snaps easily. The worst are the nuts - the threads pull out like butter.

Grade 8 is not necessary nor advantageous for all applications. Anyway, we sell a fairly complete set for under $10.

Eng-Hard.jpg


SBP engine hardware kit
 
i don't live in illinois, but i've been to the 6 flags park when i was like, 11, (which makes no sense, considering you're question...) but do a google search for "industrial fasteners." it'll hook you up with every place that sells grade 8 hardware, allen head cap bolts, basically everything you need.

the chinese may be able to get you a cheap buzzbomb, but they don't no crap about how to mount it.
 
VENICE BOY said:
I've heard that grade 8 is too hard.
The auto industry uses grade 6.
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Norm,
Grade 8 fasteners are not too hard for our uses here. Grade 9 and higher can be too brittle and can fail under high shock loads but a grade 8 will hold under any stress we'll ever see on a motorbike or a car for that matter. I'm always more concerned with people using stainless steel fasteners. Stainless steel, unless it is a heat treated speciality item is not near as hard as you would think. I always suggest Allen head capscrews because of the limited space around the bolt head on mounts and intake and exhaust manifolds. The Allen heads will fit better and even then I've had to grind away some of the material to get a flush surface for the bolt head. Hex head bolts or standard nuts will often contact the mount, manifolds at an angle and that will cause head failure under extreme vibration or stress. This isn't just my opinion but based on good mechaincal engineering practice.
Tom
 
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Don't disagree, but if you snap a (true) Grade 5 on a MB, you probably WAAAAAAAAAAY overtightened it. You just don't need to spend the money on Grade 8.
 
2door said:
Norm,
...I'm always more concerned with people using stainless steel fasteners. Stainless steel, unless it is a heat treated speciality item is not near as hard as you would think...
Tom
Click to expand...

also, stainless steel and aluminum don't mix. if you use SS, you'll definitely need anti-seize compound on the threads, and it's still a bad idea. from my experience, stainless hardware likes to fight every other metal, and when stainless breaks off, it's in there for good.
 
Thanks for the suggestions so far.I think I'll give the Allen Caps a go and see how that turns out.Does anyone know off hand the correct sizes of bolts needed for the muffler mounts,front/rear mounting?Only metric bolts can be used or American?As i said I'm no good with identifying the correct sizes of bolts:-{ Thanks a bunch!
 
Actually the SBP kit is a really good price when you figure most hardware stores want around $1 a bolt for metrics let alone allen cap screws. Buying it by the piece would probably run you around $15-$20.
 
I would have gone with ordering the hardware kit from them but its a pain to reload a prepaid CC with the amount it cost to put money on the card + I'm needing them before Wed/Thurs for my build so I'll have to get them locally at True Value if they even carry the correct sized allens.No matter what i run into,i just know i won't be using the stock studs anymore their junk!
 
Pablo said:
The supplied hardware is junk. Mostly soft garbage steel, but sometimes brittle and snaps easily. The worst are the nuts - the threads pull out like butter.

Grade 8 is not necessary nor advantageous for all applications. Anyway, we sell a fairly complete set for under $10.

Eng-Hard.jpg


SBP engine hardware kit
Click to expand...


Are these srews allen key? and r they alloy or steel?


Thx White Wolfzpt
 
I have used SBP's engine hardware kit, and it is the best! I also used the 8mm head studs and have not had anything come loose or pull through. And everything is blue or red loctited. Loctite EVERYTHING... including the bike hardware...especially the brake pads...VERY IMPORTANT! You can guess how I figured that one out.
 
LincolnMercury said:
I have used SBP's engine hardware kit, and it is the best! I also used the 8mm head studs and have not had anything come loose or pull through. And everything is blue or red loctited. Loctite EVERYTHING... including the bike hardware...especially the brake pads...VERY IMPORTANT! You can guess how I figured that one out.
Click to expand...
Try to stay away from the red lable Loctite on anything you might need to take apart later. It is a great product but maybe too good in some places. It usually requires heat to break the hold it has on threaded fasteners and too much heat can damage parts, especially aluminum castings. The blue lable Loctite is sufficient for our purposes.
Tom
 
Anyone know off hand all the sizes of the engine bolts case,sprocket cover etc.? Looking to change them out for Allen Bolts..Thanks
 
great advice are china girls fastners are recipie for problems!going with grade 5 or 8 is going to be a upgrade!there are some great tread templates that can help make sure you have correct size and dont forget thread pitch.
 
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