Transfer Port Modification- Pictures and results here.

[Creative Engineering]

Hi Steve,

Brains is spot-on with his description!!!

Clutch Friction Material:

The first bike I put together, last summer, had very durable friction pads. This was the bike I designed the clutch kit for.

I slipped that clutch everyday for nearly 2 months to see if it would wear out. It never did. It's been about 8 months now, and the clutch material is still good.

Lately I've had several that have worn out quickly. I think the compound has been changed. Several local customers have had problems too.

I bought a sheet of U.S. made friction material. It is for a dry application, with high friction qualities, and intended for extreme heat. It was $145.00 for a 30" X 30" sheet. As soon as I get a chance, I'll make a punch and die set. This material should outlast the engine.

Jim

 

[mechanickid]

hey! any news on distributing the tuned engines?

 

[Brains]

Hey mechanickid,

We have received our new Supa Flow engine Dyno from the US, it has been totally designed for the engines we tinker with, the good thing is that the Dyno is a true water brake set up which in turn will gives us the torque, HP, revs at the crank, so you will not be able to get any more accurate than this, as most people have attempted to Dyno these motors on Dyno with roller set up, this in turn will give you a reading at the rear wheel, but the Dyno will not be accurate at such low power outputs thus giving incorrect readings for our engines, as they were designed for larger HP outputs.

Our system incorporates a weather station as well, so mapping sweeps will be extremley accurate at all times,as your engine will always produce more power on a colder day than a hotter day, this then gives us the ability to set temp, humidity & height above sea level for each run, also will allow us to Dyno & tune the motors for our clients location.

So in saying the above Rock Solid Engines will be forwarding all its HP engines & custom builds with Dyno run sheets as standard, also will be able to tune clients engines & any engine we build will have the otpion to be run in our Dyno, this means the client simply installs engine & off they go,no need with breaking motor in.

I have to buy a video & will take some vids of the engine Dyno doing some pulls for all to view & post some data run sheetsas well

Cheers

Brains

 

[BrettMavriK]

Wow!
How high-tech is that !?!?!? =-]'

What a great way to confidently sell tried and true performance China motors.
The proof is in the pudding when it comes sent with a Dyno Sheet.

Sign me up for that!
I want a maxxed out high humidity sea level ripper that can rev real high
without shaking itself to pieces.

Can wait to see the testing results after massaging a motor for more performance!

Very Cool!

 

[vicsvw]

How much did you rase the Ex. port and the Transfer Ports. Slip a roled up piece of paper into the cylinder. Then with a dirty finger rub the ports edges. This will give you an accurate template of the ports. Vic

 

[Brains]

Howdy BrettMavriK,

Thats what we do for a living, and the little engines is a new division of our engine building business, all our engines come with balanced cranks, wether standard or custom builds, its very hard and impossible to attain a single cylinder engine to be perfectly balanced, but in saying so trying our best to ensure its a close as possible makes a huge diffrence, I can say the biggest comment we get with our motors is how smooth they are.

Having the correct precision equipment on hand helps immensley in learning the inns and outs of engines, its actually a great new tool for our shop as we are tesing now small modifications to a single cyclinder engine & we really can get a true indication on performance gains, when you then import these changes into multiple cylinder engine builds it makes a significant improvement, especially when we trying to attain tenths down the drag strip.

Cheers

Brains

 

[mechanickid]

this is so awesome! i cant wait for these to come out! if there's a waiting list, i want to be on it!

 

[impression]

this is so awesome! i cant wait for these to come out! if there's a waiting list, i want to be on it!

well, iv'e been the lucky recipiant of an engine from Brains at Bicycle Engine Kits - Rock Solid Engines and it's the best engine i've had the power curve is right where i asked it to be and the engine is top notch for build quality

 

[Riding Rich]

Well even though this thread got a little off topic with the new motor and all.
I did some porting to the transfers in the crankcase.
Thought i would share it here.

Hopefully i will be able to upload my pics.
The size limitations usually kill me the main reason i have strayed to the other side of the force.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now lets get down to buisness.

I have a Grubee GT-2B 48cc with roughly 1600 miles on it.
SBP Expansion Chamber
DIY Boost Bottle
Custom 36T Disk Brake Mounted Sprocket.
I ripped the motor apart last weekend and went nutty.

The transfers are very restrictive coming out of the crankcase.
A big step and lots of square corners not even close to matching the cylinder.

I ground it all out, dished shape, blended from the side of the casting parallel to the crankshaft and matched the transfer ports in the cylinder to the crankcase.

Honestly this gave me a very good increase in top end and lost a lilttle of the low end.
Once i get this thing in the power band "around 15 mph it roars like a lion.
I curise around 40 mph so obviously i'm pushing some real high revs.

I plan to get a Billet head / If it has a squish Band !!! / and would like to do some porting to the cylinder.

Anyway check out the pics.
If you want to try i think it will work out for u.
Will be harder to start and idle a little rougher.
But once warmed up and hitting the sweet spot Watch Out.

Yep I new it.
It wont let me upload my pics.
Damm camera i can't controll it that good.

Dont' the mods realize how much of a PITA this is.
It discourages me every time

Anyway i'll try to resize my pics.

 

[BarelyAWake]

If yer cam is set to default (or ur not able to change it) then yer pics are prolly around 20"x15" (3600x2600px) and close to 3MB each. At that size just 20 pics is about the same as a music CD, alla that data adds up quick. To give ya an idea, a good size for forum use is between 320x240px (40KB) and 1023x700 (70KB) - the lil one won't even be subject to a resize if posted as an link.

Many folks don't have the best connections in the world so even if the dimensions of the pic were cut down so vBulletin (the forum software) didn't freak out, the file size alone would bog out a lot of the peeps here. Another way of lookin' at it is many still have 1024x768 monitors - so even fullscreen they cant see your original resolution anyway.

We really [i]do[/i] wanna see 'em, so much so this forum provides an attachment feature, not all that common as it causes server load (another reason for the size limitations).

If you don't have any photo editing software, try [url=http://photobucket.com/]Photobucket[/url] - not only can you keep albums and provide links in various coding but it's got some nice editing and resizing features built in (they do vids now too).

 

[Riding Rich]

I am working on resizing my pics now.
Sorry for my frustration.

I know all these things....I'm a computer junkie Programmer / Drafter / Engineer

I'll be back soon.
I would really like some input on what i did with the transfers.

This side of the force seems to delve much deeper into technical aspects.

I like it.

 

[Riding Rich]

Ok i think i got them sized right.
You will love my PA licence plate.
Let me know what you guys think of the porting.
Suggestions are appreciated.
This has worked out well for me with no negative affect toward the engine.

 

[Riding Rich]

A coupla a more shots.
Sorry if this is too many.
Want you guys to see good.

 

[DanielMaia]

That's a really a nice work

That mods increases the torque and hp in general? Or mostly the top speed?

thanks

 

[Riding Rich]

It gives good overall power very strong at the top end.
It helps the motor to rev higher if you got at least an expansion chamber.
On a stock motor it wouldn't help with the restrictive exhaust.
I'm sure by fixing the port timing and duration for the intake and exhaust could prolly get the motor right where you want it.

It does take a little more rpm to get her goin, the power band is in the higher rpm range.
It still climbs hills good and i bet my top speed with a 36T is 45mph on the flat.
But you will sacrifice some of the low end.

This i did to a 48cc with the 60 i bet the low end would be fine.

 

[DanielMaia]

That's very good

I'm thinking do a little of port transfer mod, and increase the skirt mod to increase the intake timming.

 

[vicsvw]

Don't get the Transfer Port Passage mixed up with the Transfer PortThe main thing you want the transfer port passage to do is to keep the velocity of air constant. The height of the transfer Port is the most critical. It's like the cam timing on a 4-stroke. Make a dirty finger template of all the Port timing before you start, then you can use this information when compairing Port timing.
The volume of the transfer port pasages also figure in on how much the intake charge is compresed when the piston is at bottom of stroke. When some one talks about stuffing the lower end, it is to keep the volume as small as posible when the piston is compressing the intake charge. Vic

 

[Norman]

what we going to do when they outlaw dremels?
Nice! I found that most cameras have a flower thing on them for better in focus close ups if that will help?
Your plates are cool but I'd like to see a better photo of your tank, I have a skull ring for head lights that might look good on your bike.
Its fun to grind the shi out of these things.
I got one engine that is a screamer I really need to take readings on timing and ports with a degree wheel so I could reproduce its timing etc. I might have to do that this winter.

Hey I haven't done it yet but I might try to use some aluminum solder to fill up a stock head and see what kind of trouble I could get into by remachining it. Heck I might just go out into the shop and give it a try. You can use this stuff with a propane torch but for the head you will need an oxy/acetylene torch to get enough heat.
I've redone some stock heads machined them down trying to boost the compression a little bit it works but be ready for blowing head gaskets and cylinder studs.

 

[Riding Rich]

I removed my head gasket for a wile.
Worst trouble i had was with the spark plug coming loose once in a wile.
I put the head gasket back in cause i removed the base gasket.
I think it's better to leave the base gasket in though.

I have a brand new Model : PK80J-SILVER slant head from Pirate on it's way.
Should have it on tuesday.
I must say Justin at Pirate has been totaly awsem to me.
Outstanding service and response to any correspondance.

I plan on fully blueprinting this engine.
Then doing some well planned mods.

I'm wondering about better needle bearings if there are some high quality ones you folks know of.

I plan to port this motor too.
But without doing any guessing.

I don't think the 66 / 80 will need to rev as high as my 48 so i'll be trying to do some low end power work.

If i can run a smaller gear i won't need to rev so high.

I think i read around here that the ports in these HT's are too low.
I know i read about someone putting a GT-5 barrel on the PK.
The piston pin location is different so they had to put a spacer on it.
Thereby also raising the porting up equally changing the timing and still leaving alot of room for the ports to be ground either way.

Do any of you have a good idea of what the optimal Port Timing and Duration should be?

How much of a raise they need.

I know GT-5 jugs are pretty cheap so this is a realistic idea.

Anyway when the motor gets here the first thing im gonna do is a port map.
I'll post what i find out.

BTW there is a website out there called MACDIZZY or something close.
They have a very good writeup on how to do a port map step by step with all the details.

Any help with the PK when it gets here will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Tcams]

This is my first time matching up the ports on my first build. I know its not recommended for us noobs, but I wanted to try it. See if I can get some results. Im starting small and currently working on port matching the exhaust manifold with the cylinder port. Ive been using a dremel and its going pretty good. Let me know if I should stop now or please give me some pointers. Should I smooth out the cylinder port as well?

Here are some pics. Idk if you can tell or not.