Last set of problems

Welcome back partner !
You should have an installation guide that came with that motor if not go to the grubbee web and print it off. The issues you are having are a part of the basic set up of your motor and shouldn't give you any long term hassels.

Spooky Tooth has the most thorough instructions I've seen. Click the link, scroll down to the bottom of page. You will have to register to view the pages.

Spooky Tooth Cycles - Motorized Bicycles: Gas Powered and Electric Bikes - Technical Resources

ex42k9j said:

1)The CD Ign. coil doesnt seem to fit the spark plug that came with the motor (Grubee Skyhawk)

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Unscrew the crown off the sparkplug, it looks like a piece of aluminum at the top of it somewhat hourglass shaped.

ex42k9j said:

2)I have no idea how to install the throttle cable (??? ~ The one attached to the handlebars/kill switch)

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At the end of the cable where it screws into the carb, there's a notch and a vertical line. The vertical line goes with a guide pin on the right side of the carb (when looking at from sitting on the bike). The notch goes on the left, and lines right up with the idler screw.

This is assuming you have an NT carb.

ex42k9j said:

3)I dont think my clutch cable has enough tension, how do yall get that spring so tight?

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Using the handle's adjusting screw, screw it in all the way. Tighten the cable at the motor, and then unscrew from the handle to tighten more.

ex42k9j said:

4)Which cables go/attach where? the only cables I have hooked up are the black/blue ones from the cd ign to the motor.

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:::::WIRING GUIDE :::::

Okay, first we will take note of our wires.

NOTE: Different brands tend to use different colors for some wires, so use the process of elimination to determine what color a wire is if it is not stated here.

*Kill Switch Wires : Green Wire & Red/Yellow Wire.
*Engine Wires : Blue Wire & Black Wire & White Wire.
*CDI Wires: Blue Wire & Black Wire.
*Other Stuff: Wire Cap

Now that you know what wires you have, it's time to connect them.

1. Engine's Blue Wire to CDI's Blue Wire.
2. Engine's Black Wire to CDI's Black Wire.
3. Kill Switch's Green Wire to Engine's & CDI's Black Wire.
4. Kill Switch's Red/Yellow Wire to Engine's & CDI's Blue Wire.
5. Engine's White Wire to Wire Cap.


Go ahead and fire up your bike real quick so you can test your brand new fully functional kill switch!

I don't know why the instruction manuals tell you to connect the white wire from the engine into the circuit. That's the ~7V live wire intended to be used by extra bike devices, like lights and such and such. When that white wire is in the circuit, the kill switch will not be able to stop the motor.

ex42k9j said:

@ducttapedgoat:
I am trying to upload some pictures now. They will help us both out more.

This first one is the reason I cant get the spark plug to go in, its that U shaped (removable) pin. cant get it on/in while spark plug is on it.

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That's supposed to stay in the sparkplug boot all the time, how'd you even get it out in the first place?

ex42k9j said:

You meant to unscrew that piece off right?

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Yes.

ex42k9j said:

Does that look correct?

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Yup, that's how it goes on, like a pulley so it pulls straight out of the metal guide tube.

ex42k9j said:

Sorry for the crazy camera orientation, download and rotate if you need. Very sunny out today.

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ex42k9j said:

I forgot to mention this problem, some of the plastic is broke on the spark plug connector, is that a problem?

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[/quote]
It won't contain the electricity as well, I'd wrap it with electrical tape if you can't get it to work, but it's kinda unsafe. ZAP.

Looking at the side view of your engine, I noticed that you have the small spring installed over the clutch cable inner wire, between the cable stop on top of the engine case and clutch release arm. Remove that spring and throw it into the dust bin. You do not need it.
Also I noticed that the cable needs to be shortened up/ tightened more.
Loosen up the set screw in brass cable end and slide it up as far as it will go while pushing the release arm inwards towards the carburetor and... keeping the cable pulled tight as it passes through the release arm. If you got it right, you should barely be able to wiggle the cable and the release arm.
Here's a link if it can help you out more:
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/clutch-cable-clutch-adjusting-procedures-22726.html

Actually, that spring is helpful - that's all that returns the clutch handle to it's position.

The clutch returns to its origional position on its own, spring is not needed, all it does is make it hard to connect the cable.

I went and checked - if you're using the stock clutch handle, then yes, you can get away with not using it as the stock one has a spring in the handle. If you aren't using the stock clutch handle, then you'll want to keep it. That's still not to say there isn't a purpose - it's spring loaded in 3 spots along the line, one internal of the block, one at the lever, and one at the handle.

Myself, I use a non stock locking cable, which isn't spring loaded. Without the return spring on the cable the clutch cable retains a lot of slack.

I don't see what's so tough about setting the clutch cable though - it's easy. Screw the fine tune on the handle all the way down, set your cable tension at the clutch lever, and then just use the fine tune on the handle to bring in the slack by unscrewing it.

You don't need a new CDI - get a new plug boot and wire. Go to SBP.com, they've got upgraded plugwires.

I'm a fan of the disc brake mounting style for sprockets if you can get the alignment right.

4 Step Clutch Adjustment.

0. (Presteps) Using the clutch handle's quick cable tension adjustment screw, tighten it down completely and take off the clutch cover (on the right side of the motor).

1. By pulling the cable tight against the clutch lever and locking it with the small locking end bit, you want the clutch's camshaft perfectly flat against the bucking bar. If there is still some play, use the clutch handle's quick adjustment screw and unscrew it to add tension.

2. Put the clutch handle into the locked position.

3. Remove the locking screw from the flower nut on the left gear. Adjust the flower nut CCW in very slow increments, checking to see when your bike rolls freely. Put the locking screw back in to lock the flower nut.

4. Fire up the bike, lock the clutch and lift the back wheel off the ground. If the wheel moves, adjust the flower nut again. If it's good, go climb a hill and listen for your clutch slipping. If it's slipping, you need to adjust the flower nut again.

Slide the barrel over the cable from the side, then pull tight, it will stop as it's funnel shaped.

This is how to wire it, I posted it earlier.

You'll have three wires capped at one spot, three wires capped at one spot, and the white does nothing.

:::::WIRING GUIDE :::::

Okay, first we will take note of our wires.

NOTE: Different brands tend to use different colors for some wires, so use the process of elimination to determine what color a wire is if it is not stated here.

*Kill Switch Wires : Green Wire & Red/Yellow Wire.
*Engine Wires : Blue Wire & Black Wire & White Wire.
*CDI Wires: Blue Wire & Black Wire.
*Other Stuff: Wire Cap

Now that you know what wires you have, it's time to connect them.

1. Engine's Blue Wire to CDI's Blue Wire.
2. Engine's Black Wire to CDI's Black Wire.
3. Kill Switch's Green Wire to Engine's & CDI's Black Wire.
4. Kill Switch's Red/Yellow Wire to Engine's & CDI's Blue Wire.
5. Engine's White Wire to Wire Cap.


Go ahead and fire up your bike real quick so you can test your brand new fully functional kill switch!

I don't know why the instruction manuals tell you to connect the white wire from the engine into the circuit. That's the ~7V live wire intended to be used by extra bike devices, like lights and such and such. When that white wire is in the circuit, the kill switch will not be able to stop the motor.

Click to expand...

The screw is for idle adjustment.


You have to splice in to wire it right. The quick disconnects that are there don't allow for 3 wires to intersect. Myself, I just removed the quick disconnects and use wirecaps instead.

Twist each 3 wire connection together and use wire caps. I usually recommend soldering the connections and using heat shrink tubing or electrical tape, but wire caps will get the job done.
Here's a schematic:
http://motorbicycling.com/attachments/f50/36243d1305772217-wiring-confused-wiring-diagram-9.jpg