Last set of problems

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by ex42k9j, Jun 22, 2011.

  1. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    Well I am back (haven't posted since the last time I had problems). Anyway, I was motorizing a schwinn delmar cruiser (switched to a micargi touch). I ended up scrapping the project because 1)Didn't have a U-Mount [youd think it would be included] and 2)Weather had gotten really cold [didnt want to work on it in the snow/ice]

    I have come a long way though. My only problems now are:

    1)The CDI Ign. coil doesnt seem to fit the spark plug that came with the motor (Grubee Skyhawk)

    2)I have no idea how to install the throttle cable (??? ~ The one attached to the handlebars/kill switch)


    3)I dont think my clutch cable has enough tension, how do yall get that spring so tight?

    4)Which cables go/attach where? the only cables I have hooked up are the black/blue ones from the cd ign to the motor.


    I will try to have pics of the build later on if that helps.
     
    #1 ex42k9j, Jun 22, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2011
  2. ratrod

    ratrod New Member

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    Welcome back partner !
    You should have an installation guide that came with that motor if not go to the grubbee web and print it off. The issues you are having are a part of the basic set up of your motor and shouldn't give you any long term hassels.
     
  3. flatblack

    flatblack New Member

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  4. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    Unscrew the crown off the sparkplug, it looks like a piece of aluminum at the top of it somewhat hourglass shaped.



    At the end of the cable where it screws into the carb, there's a notch and a vertical line. The vertical line goes with a guide pin on the right side of the carb (when looking at from sitting on the bike). The notch goes on the left, and lines right up with the idler screw.

    This is assuming you have an NT carb.


    Using the handle's adjusting screw, screw it in all the way. Tighten the cable at the motor, and then unscrew from the handle to tighten more.

    :::::WIRING GUIDE :::::

    Okay, first we will take note of our wires.

    NOTE: Different brands tend to use different colors for some wires, so use the process of elimination to determine what color a wire is if it is not stated here.

    *Kill Switch Wires : Green Wire & Red/Yellow Wire.
    *Engine Wires : Blue Wire & Black Wire & White Wire.
    *CDI Wires: Blue Wire & Black Wire.
    *Other Stuff: Wire Cap

    Now that you know what wires you have, it's time to connect them.

    1. Engine's Blue Wire to CDI's Blue Wire.
    2. Engine's Black Wire to CDI's Black Wire.
    3. Kill Switch's Green Wire to Engine's & CDI's Black Wire.
    4. Kill Switch's Red/Yellow Wire to Engine's & CDI's Blue Wire.
    5. Engine's White Wire to Wire Cap.


    Go ahead and fire up your bike real quick so you can test your brand new fully functional kill switch!

    I don't know why the instruction manuals tell you to connect the white wire from the engine into the circuit. That's the ~7V live wire intended to be used by extra bike devices, like lights and such and such. When that white wire is in the circuit, the kill switch will not be able to stop the motor.
     
  5. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    @ratrod:

    The manual that came with it is horrible, the one online is not much different.

    @flatblack:

    Thank you, I will check that out.

    @ducttapedgoat:

    I am trying to upload some pictures now. They will help us both out more.


    This first one is the reason I cant get the spark plug to go in, its that U shaped (removable) pin. cant get it on/in while spark plug is on it.

    [​IMG]

    You meant to unscrew that piece off right?

    [​IMG]

    Does that look correct?

    [​IMG]

    Sorry for the crazy camera orientation, download and rotate if you need. Very sunny out today.

    [​IMG]


    I forgot to mention this problem, some of the plastic is broke on the spark plug connector, is that a problem?

    [​IMG]
     
    #5 ex42k9j, Jun 22, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2011
  6. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    That's supposed to stay in the sparkplug boot all the time, how'd you even get it out in the first place?

    Yes.

    Yup, that's how it goes on, like a pulley so it pulls straight out of the metal guide tube.

    [/quote]
    It won't contain the electricity as well, I'd wrap it with electrical tape if you can't get it to work, but it's kinda unsafe. ZAP.
     
  7. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    Looking at the side view of your engine, I noticed that you have the small spring installed over the clutch cable inner wire, between the cable stop on top of the engine case and clutch release arm. Remove that spring and throw it into the dust bin. You do not need it.
    Also I noticed that the cable needs to be shortened up/ tightened more.
    Loosen up the set screw in brass cable end and slide it up as far as it will go while pushing the release arm inwards towards the carburetor and... keeping the cable pulled tight as it passes through the release arm. If you got it right, you should barely be able to wiggle the cable and the release arm.
    Here's a link if it can help you out more:
    http://motorbicycling.com/f4/clutch-cable-clutch-adjusting-procedures-22726.html
     
  8. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    Actually, that spring is helpful - that's all that returns the clutch handle to it's position.
     
  9. Cabinfever1977

    Cabinfever1977 New Member

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    The clutch returns to its origional position on its own, spring is not needed, all it does is make it hard to connect the cable.
     
  10. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    I went and checked - if you're using the stock clutch handle, then yes, you can get away with not using it as the stock one has a spring in the handle. If you aren't using the stock clutch handle, then you'll want to keep it. That's still not to say there isn't a purpose - it's spring loaded in 3 spots along the line, one internal of the block, one at the lever, and one at the handle.

    Myself, I use a non stock locking cable, which isn't spring loaded. Without the return spring on the cable the clutch cable retains a lot of slack.

    I don't see what's so tough about setting the clutch cable though - it's easy. Screw the fine tune on the handle all the way down, set your cable tension at the clutch lever, and then just use the fine tune on the handle to bring in the slack by unscrewing it.
     
    #10 DuctTapedGoat, Jun 23, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2011
  11. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    It was already hanging out (that U thing). I barely pulled it out any extra (pulled out a little further for the picture)

    I will try out that electric tape for now. I may just end up buying a new cdi ign box. I definitely need a thinner rear wheel too (maybe one with a sprocket welded to it).


    I tightened the clutch i think. Holding down the lever on the handlebars, I can barely move the wire and i cant move the clutch arm at all. But once i release pressure on the handlebar lever i can move the clutch arm a little and the wire a lot more. not sure if thats right...


    Keep in mind guys, I am no mechanic.
     
    #11 ex42k9j, Jun 23, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2011
  12. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    You don't need a new CDI - get a new plug boot and wire. Go to SBP.com, they've got upgraded plugwires.

    I'm a fan of the disc brake mounting style for sprockets if you can get the alignment right.

    4 Step Clutch Adjustment.

    0. (Presteps) Using the clutch handle's quick cable tension adjustment screw, tighten it down completely and take off the clutch cover (on the right side of the motor).

    1. By pulling the cable tight against the clutch lever and locking it with the small locking end bit, you want the clutch's camshaft perfectly flat against the bucking bar. If there is still some play, use the clutch handle's quick adjustment screw and unscrew it to add tension.

    2. Put the clutch handle into the locked position.

    3. Remove the locking screw from the flower nut on the left gear. Adjust the flower nut CCW in very slow increments, checking to see when your bike rolls freely. Put the locking screw back in to lock the flower nut.

    4. Fire up the bike, lock the clutch and lift the back wheel off the ground. If the wheel moves, adjust the flower nut again. If it's good, go climb a hill and listen for your clutch slipping. If it's slipping, you need to adjust the flower nut again.
     
    #12 DuctTapedGoat, Jun 23, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2011
  13. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    I managed to get the sparkplug on. Seems loose/wobbly but it is on there. I took the U thing out, put the spark plug top in and clamped the U thing back on.


    I will get the clutch on there correctly later on today.

    Ok, so now I am trying to get the throttle cable on (goes on the top of the carb right?) how do I get it the tighten/stay in there cause as soon as a move the throttle on the handlebar it pulls the cable out.


    Still dont know where to hook the kill switch up at. only thing I can think of is hooking the red/yellow wire to the white one coming from the motor and grounding the green wire.


    After that stuff is done I will be able to test her out and hope the wheels dont go flying off or I get electrocuted or something...
     
  14. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    Slide the barrel over the cable from the side, then pull tight, it will stop as it's funnel shaped.

    This is how to wire it, I posted it earlier.

    You'll have three wires capped at one spot, three wires capped at one spot, and the white does nothing.

     
    #14 DuctTapedGoat, Jun 23, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2011
  15. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    Well I think I know what to do with the throttle cable. Open the top of the carb, remove the spring, the needle looking thing and the brass cylinder. Then thread the throttle cable through the top screw and spring and put it in the opening in the cylinder (kinda like how the handlebar thing was done) and screw it all back in.

    When I move the throttle on the handlebar I can see inside the carb the cylinder is lifting up.

    What about that screw on the side? If i screw it in it makes the cylinder stay raised a little.



    I read that post and still cant figure out how I am suppose to connect the kill switch wire to the cdi/engine wire as they are already connected and I dont see how to hook a 3rd one to it.
     
  16. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    The screw is for idle adjustment.


    You have to splice in to wire it right. The quick disconnects that are there don't allow for 3 wires to intersect. Myself, I just removed the quick disconnects and use wirecaps instead.
     
  17. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    Ok so basically I should cut and strip/expose the wires (remove the "quick disconnects") from the motor, kill switch, and cdi.


    Then I should twist the correct wires together (motor to cdi) and connect the other wires (kill switch) to it with wirecaps?

    Or Just twist them all together (motor, cdi, kill switch) and throw a wirecap over it?
     
  18. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    Got the clutch properly on/tightened. Just need to figure out these wires and I will be ready for my first run
     
  19. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    #19 GearNut, Jun 24, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2011
  20. ex42k9j

    ex42k9j New Member

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    wires twisted and bike is now built. Only thing is is that it is leaking like crazy! Cant put gas in it without it leaking from the hose (both at the top where it connects to the tank and the bottom where it connects to the carb).


    I just pretty much poured a third of a gallon of gas on my garage floor......and I reak of gasoline.
     

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