Greyhound governor & throttle help needed

I'm looking for some photos showing different ways of hooking up the throttle cable to the Greyhound motor. I can no doubt cobble something, but it would be great to see how others have done it. Can you take a shot of your setup and post it here? Also, does anyone have before and after photos of the governor disconnect? Thank you.
SB

Very nice, straightforward and simple. Just this evening I removed all of the external aspects of the governor which sure cleans things up nicely. There's a good looking motor under all the junk. (not junk, but you know what I mean.) I really like the way the piston lays back. Anyway, tomorrow I'll look at a couple of old multi speeds in the department of dead bikes to see if have a similar donor. Nice, too, that it is adjustable. What will you use for the swivel?
Regarding the governor, I also removed the arm and replaced the nut. Is there anything else which needs to be done to the governor... be in a certain position or something? My tranny should be here by the weekend, so I'm hoping for a test run pretty soon. Woo hoo! Thanks for your help.
SB

Killroy,
A cable knarp. My bike stuff vocabulary is expanding. Never knew what that was. I learned from Scotto today what a carburetor swivel is. Same dealy as the throttle connects to on the HS. I'm going to see if Napa has one. Scotto gave me a link to buy one for $2.00 which I would do if the shipping for the little thing wasn't $7.00. My local chainsaw guy may have something, too. If not I have figured out something less elegant that Scottos's or Jim's but which will work using leftovers from the ousted Governor.
Speaking of which, Buzzard, you mean I'm not done with that bum? I thought with the stuff I removed he was long gone, but he's still down inside that engine, eh? Is there no way to seal things up around the shaft so no oil can leak out? A little dab of good old JBWeld for example? Why does it leak out? Would it leak out if the Governor linkage was still there? And do I need to remove the low oil sensor? Does it actually interfere with anything? I had the idea that shutting the motor down because of low oil might be good, but now that I'm thinking about it, the engine was designed to sit flat, stationary. On a bike we're going up and down hills, etc. and I suppose that could give a false reading to the little sensor and shut down the motor. Is that the reason to remove it? What about just deactivating it somehow. What would happen if you just clipped the wire?
SB

I think I'll just wait and see if there is a leaking problem and if not, leave it along. If I do, then I know how to deal with it, so thank you or that. Regarding the low oil sensor, it sounds like a first thing to do is deactivate it. If I just disconnect the wire or clip it, that should do it I would think. I know it would stop any signal coming from the switch... but it should have no ill effect on the wiring, right?
Thanks you guys.
SB

I wanted to find a carburetor swivel like the one Scotto used on his Greyhound (first picture), but my local Napa and hardware stores didn't have anything like that and the one online from the site Scotto gave a link to wanted $2.00 for the swivel and $7.00 to ship it. If I find one sometime I'll use it, but in the mean time and maybe forever I'll use this cheap little setup using leftover's from the ousted governor hardware and a couple scrounged caliper brake parts. I used the spring which was attached to the control arm and ran it back to a bolt which had held governor parts in place, same as Scotto did. I wanted to utilize the little rod which was also fitted to the carb control and reversed it so that it now points toward the seat post. I drilled a small hole as big as the throttle cable, but smaller than the stop on the end of it. Then I used the dremel cut off wheel and made a little slot to the outer edge of the washer (also left over from the removed parts). See the second photo. Then I realized it could conceivably work it's way loose and instead drilled a hole toward the inside edge of the washer and did the slot to the bolt hole at the center. So that's to hold the throttle cable. The little bolt at the center makes it impossible for it to come loose, so that's better. The bolt is from a caliper brake and is meant to lock the cable tight. If you ever had a caliper brake then you recognize that little bolt. The connecting rod attached to the carburetor arm fits right through that cable hole. Tighten down the nut and it locks the connecting rod. So that means it is also adjustable. Not as elegant as the carb swivel, but cheap and works. Next is the holder for the throttle cable at the anchor point...
(Cont.)

I used three bits of hardware for this part of the operation, the anchor point for the throttle cable housing. First note the threaded bolt deal which is hollow with a hole running through it. It, too, is from the caliper brake and you will recognize it as fulfilling the same function there on the original brake for the brake cable as it now does for the throttle cable. I did drill it out a wee bit so that the little stop on the end of the cable could fit through the hole. What that is attached to is a little angle brace, a corner brace I believe it's called. It could be just a bent piece of metal with two holes in it, but this is ready made and I had it in my 'stuff', so why make use of what is sitting there? The other end of the brace is attached to that same electrical ground rod clamp I was going to use under the rear motor mount. I found another seat post clamp and instead used that under the motor mount as it is stronger and that also freed up this ground rod clamp which I thought would make a nice anchor for the throttle. I glued scrap leather to the inside of the clamp to protect the paint and am attaching it to the seat post close to the engine and carburetor. So the throttle cable passes through the anchor point and holds the cable housing fast. The bare cable it attached to the drilled washer as shown in the post before this one. This should work fine It is not quite as simple at the carburetor swivel, but not bad. Once the motor is mounted I can hook it all up, but now I can stop thinking about the governor and the throttle hookup. Thanks to all who showed how they hooked up their throttle. It is so interesting to see the variations. And they all work!
SB

Scotto will know. PM him.
SB