So...satisfy our morbid curiosity, what happened?
The most important thing is that they are all still there
The most important thing is that they are all still there
my henderson tribute
- Thread starter charliechaindrive.
- Start date
Well, I was doing a bit of blacksmithing to try to make a headbadge blank and I had a big 2 pound hammer. The head came off the hammer, and contacted my finger quite painfully!
Mr.lindgren didn't exactaly approve of my lanuage when it happened though..
On a side note, I scored up a 1953 briggs and stratton 6s,
and a old carter model n carburator
. I really am thinking of using the 6s on the henderson here, its got much more style than the little 70's briggs 3 horse that I've got on there now.
Mr.lindgren didn't exactaly approve of my lanuage when it happened though..
On a side note, I scored up a 1953 briggs and stratton 6s,
and a old carter model n carburator
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Funny think, I have a two pound ball peen hammer that I used to use when I lost my temper...the handle broke, probably a good thing. I've hit my hand with a two pound dead blow hammer several times...at least those are rubber faced.
Nice score on the motor...have you ever considered stacking two or three dead and gutted engines into that frame beside a live one? It would give the impression of it having multiple cylinders while retaining the simplicity of a single cylinder machine...just thinking out loud.
Nice score on the motor...have you ever considered stacking two or three dead and gutted engines into that frame beside a live one? It would give the impression of it having multiple cylinders while retaining the simplicity of a single cylinder machine...just thinking out loud.
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I actually never thought of that! I had thought of trimming the sides off of 4 different engines, then just tig welding the whole lot together. And setting up a chain connecting all four, but your dummy engine idea sounds a bit easier.
Started breaking down the old 6s in small gas engines this morning, the piston has very minor scarring on it but I don't think that will affect it too much.
Also, in the valve access (can't remember the proper name for it) there's an odd little 3rd spring under the bolt That holds the inspection cover on. Not shure exactly what it's for, but I did just send a PDF file of a repair manual for a 6s to the printer in the office so that should clarify how that comes apart.
I'm going to convert the point ignition to normal Briggs magnetron ignition, so I don't half to fiddle with the point gap adjustment and replacing condencers and all that jazz.
Only problem is that one of the mounting feet is broken off the bottom half of the crank case. I'll see if Mr.lindgren will tig it back on in seventh hour, which just started now so I need to log off and go to class.
Cheers
Ccd
Started breaking down the old 6s in small gas engines this morning, the piston has very minor scarring on it but I don't think that will affect it too much.
Also, in the valve access (can't remember the proper name for it) there's an odd little 3rd spring under the bolt That holds the inspection cover on. Not shure exactly what it's for, but I did just send a PDF file of a repair manual for a 6s to the printer in the office so that should clarify how that comes apart.
I'm going to convert the point ignition to normal Briggs magnetron ignition, so I don't half to fiddle with the point gap adjustment and replacing condencers and all that jazz.
Only problem is that one of the mounting feet is broken off the bottom half of the crank case. I'll see if Mr.lindgren will tig it back on in seventh hour, which just started now so I need to log off and go to class.
Cheers
Ccd
Got the old 6s tore down to bare bones, and stripped off allmost all the paint from the block and oil pan. Still haven't had the foot tig welded back on, but I am considering just leaving it and bolting the broken foot to the motor mount for looks.
Hey charlie, I may have a spare base like your broken one (only not broken). Is it aluminum or cast iron?
Just a thought...If you have the broken foot ,slip a brass bar behind it and tig it . Ive found media blasting along the fracture line on both parts ,holding the gun at a slight angle ,creates a nice chamfer that the tig bead fills quite nicely.
thanks for the tip shopdogs! today after school i am planning to get that foot re-attached. we dont have a media blaster.
You can get a good result with a wire wheel ,just be absoutly sure it has NO oil or grez on it .i gota say im impressed with your project so far ,its good to know there are still kids who are into shop class . I was a ta while in school and have been teaching shop skills to all diff kinds of people for 25yrs. Its so sad to see young guys who have no idea how stuff works or how to fix or build it! Please tell your shop inst. that his work is valued by many ,i have several teachers in my family ,so i know how thankless the job can be.
All I have at the moment is this perfect aluminum base. My cast iron bases are on complete blocks. You can have it for the price of shipping. It should ship for around $10.00. I tried to have one of my Maytag twin aluminum bases tigged and it was so contaminated with oil and gas that it just blew away and got worse. Briggs are twice as thick as Maytag, so you may be alright.
A really great project and it's been fun reading back through all the posts on this thread. My Dad taught me how to weld and use tools and I can use a lathe as well thanks to his patient teaching. My own daughter has just finished overhauling the engine in her Rover car and it now runs perfectly. She purchased the car originally as a tidy condition non-runner and has spent a good few hours working on it with me doing the occasional, 'Now this is how you do this.....,' from time to time.
We are starting to have the same problem here in New Zealand with shop and technical classes being cut in favour of academic and computer orientated classes due to funding issues. It's completely stupid of course and already we're seeing young adults who haven't got the foggiest idea how to do even the most basic of handyman type tasks.
I remember my brothers telling me about the fire-breathing shop teachers they had who wouldn't tolerate horseplay of any kind in their workshops. Back then they would get caned for it, but I supposed that's not considered PC anymore. Workshops are no place for horseplay as it's too darn easy to end up suddenly either dead or maimed while working around machinery.
We are starting to have the same problem here in New Zealand with shop and technical classes being cut in favour of academic and computer orientated classes due to funding issues. It's completely stupid of course and already we're seeing young adults who haven't got the foggiest idea how to do even the most basic of handyman type tasks.
I remember my brothers telling me about the fire-breathing shop teachers they had who wouldn't tolerate horseplay of any kind in their workshops. Back then they would get caned for it, but I supposed that's not considered PC anymore. Workshops are no place for horseplay as it's too darn easy to end up suddenly either dead or maimed while working around machinery.
I'll shoot you a pm on that oil pan msrfan. Thank you!
EDIT: hey msrfan, on my oil pan the studs that mate up between the oil pan & block are oposite, one inthe pan and one in the base of the block on the flywheel side. Does that make a significant difference? And also, insted of a screw on filler cap, mine is held on with a spring.
And thanks intrepid, I'm kind of miffed at the fact that the helpfull classes are being annexed, even down in New Zealand. What's going to happen when mr. City slick tries to mow his lawn and the mower doesn't start on the first pull? And nobody knows how to even do baisic repair? Doesn't bode well fo future gear-heads.
EDIT: hey msrfan, on my oil pan the studs that mate up between the oil pan & block are oposite, one inthe pan and one in the base of the block on the flywheel side. Does that make a significant difference? And also, insted of a screw on filler cap, mine is held on with a spring.
And thanks intrepid, I'm kind of miffed at the fact that the helpfull classes are being annexed, even down in New Zealand. What's going to happen when mr. City slick tries to mow his lawn and the mower doesn't start on the first pull? And nobody knows how to even do baisic repair? Doesn't bode well fo future gear-heads.
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High school auto shop class I did not find nearly as informative in fixing automobiles and small engines as from my father. You can pick up books in the library and learn from doing as I did, but try to get along with the neighbors.
I had a neighbor that worked hours that meant I should not work on engines before 3pm. Myself at the time a teenager not realizing eventually had the guy real interested in my gas engines.
He asked me to start it up, while he was holding his little dog on a leash standing right next to him. He must have purposely let enough leash to have the dog put his fangs, small but still painful in my leg as the engine started.
I guess if I did not take a hint one way he was telling me in another.
As for many people not knowing much about simplest bicycle parts, I had this guy ask me to put a replacement brake lever on for one that was cracking. I kept telling him that I would have to remove the hand grip to slide it on. For removing the brake he was saying could you just cut the strap. I said you just have to remove the cable and there is a screw inside to loosen the strap.
I also saw that the frays in the end of the cable meant that if the fine adjust would not give enough length to remove the barrel end, then he would have to get a cable also. Mostly I mentioned the hand grip needed to be soaked in hot soapy water to remove it. A screw driver would have ripped it.
I'm working on my bike and said you can come back an I replace it if you remove the grip. I know I may know a bit about bikes, unlike this guy, but what about common sense?
The Briggs 6S and a 5S I have. It is sort of maybe unbelievable, but 30 years ago I had my 5S dissembled and decreased. It was packed in a suitcase and padded and went underneath the seat in front of me on an airliner.
This thanks to my father a physics teacher, that explained that it was not dangerous. This I know is not to be done in the current times, but it got by back then.
Keep up the good work!
MT
I had a neighbor that worked hours that meant I should not work on engines before 3pm. Myself at the time a teenager not realizing eventually had the guy real interested in my gas engines.
He asked me to start it up, while he was holding his little dog on a leash standing right next to him. He must have purposely let enough leash to have the dog put his fangs, small but still painful in my leg as the engine started.
I guess if I did not take a hint one way he was telling me in another.
As for many people not knowing much about simplest bicycle parts, I had this guy ask me to put a replacement brake lever on for one that was cracking. I kept telling him that I would have to remove the hand grip to slide it on. For removing the brake he was saying could you just cut the strap. I said you just have to remove the cable and there is a screw inside to loosen the strap.
I also saw that the frays in the end of the cable meant that if the fine adjust would not give enough length to remove the barrel end, then he would have to get a cable also. Mostly I mentioned the hand grip needed to be soaked in hot soapy water to remove it. A screw driver would have ripped it.
I'm working on my bike and said you can come back an I replace it if you remove the grip. I know I may know a bit about bikes, unlike this guy, but what about common sense?
The Briggs 6S and a 5S I have. It is sort of maybe unbelievable, but 30 years ago I had my 5S dissembled and decreased. It was packed in a suitcase and padded and went underneath the seat in front of me on an airliner.
This thanks to my father a physics teacher, that explained that it was not dangerous. This I know is not to be done in the current times, but it got by back then.
Keep up the good work!
MT
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And, today my friends josh and sheldon helped me make this, erm, thing. I got a pair of self-aligning 3/4 inch pillowblock's from the hardware store. Planning to make a jack shaft with it, That's about it for tonight
I think the aligning pins can go in the block or the pan. They should be removable with visegrips.
Alrighty!
And I kinda messed up, and got the pillow blocks stuck on an ol' worn out keyway shaft, and can't get them off... at all. :l so, I'll ask my dad for some help on it tomorrow. If I can't get them off, I will probably half to buy new ones. (I'm kind of dreading seeing what the price will be, got these two blocks on clearance)
And I kinda messed up, and got the pillow blocks stuck on an ol' worn out keyway shaft, and can't get them off... at all. :l so, I'll ask my dad for some help on it tomorrow. If I can't get them off, I will probably half to buy new ones. (I'm kind of dreading seeing what the price will be, got these two blocks on clearance)
Maybe penetrating fluid dripped on the shaft to seep in between the shaft and the inside bore of the pillow bearings to start with.
Next making some kind of jig to hold each part separately. Like even though it seems both pillow bearings are stuck, just try moving one at a time a short distance latterly toward the nearest end of the shaft. Eventually moving them both off the shaft and get a new shaft.
Also the areas of the shaft that are next to the immovable pillow bearings that you are trying to move them over, you may try to remove burs first by sanding using fine emory cloth.
I have had a really bad time with the collars that have set screws and mark up the shaft and pulleys would get stuck in the areas where they had just been removed from. I switched to half split collars (bushings) that have a set screw that only tightens the split area so that it immobilizes the collar. There is no set screw that hits the round of the shaft with these collars. Then all of the pulleys have keys and they are the only things marked up by the set screw ends. The keys are replaceable and cheap to replace and this is how I make sure things are removable.
Occasional fine sanding and oiling the steel shaft is still necessary once in a while as I also have windsurfing year round as a sport in salt water and the water vapor gets on my bike.
There are probably some other ways others may have to add, but hope this will help.
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I'm still wondering myself if the trouble I have with getting the centrifugal clutch of mine on the engine crank shaft turned around 180 degrees (the bell on the inside) can be solved short of modifying the crankshaft keyway slot nearest the crankcase cover oil seal.
The key way cut on the engine crankshaft closest to the crankcase cover oil seal is a rounded sloped cut. I have had to modify the key to get it almost fully installed. Its not quite there, just 1.3 mili-meters short of having the end of the engine crankshaft even with the centrifugal clutch pulley.
I have had the people at Max Torque the manufacturer of my centrifugal clutch mention that turning the clutch around is OK to do as the shoes on the one I have are symmetrical and grip either way. I want to have it install like this so I have the belt further away from the engine so I can fit the flat idler pulley I am to get in the mail tomorrow.
I'll be checking with Briggs and Stratton what they know of this too. Any help appreciated!
Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
See posts #93 and #94 on page 10 for pics of the problem
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=454501#post454501
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=10
MT
Next making some kind of jig to hold each part separately. Like even though it seems both pillow bearings are stuck, just try moving one at a time a short distance latterly toward the nearest end of the shaft. Eventually moving them both off the shaft and get a new shaft.
Also the areas of the shaft that are next to the immovable pillow bearings that you are trying to move them over, you may try to remove burs first by sanding using fine emory cloth.
I have had a really bad time with the collars that have set screws and mark up the shaft and pulleys would get stuck in the areas where they had just been removed from. I switched to half split collars (bushings) that have a set screw that only tightens the split area so that it immobilizes the collar. There is no set screw that hits the round of the shaft with these collars. Then all of the pulleys have keys and they are the only things marked up by the set screw ends. The keys are replaceable and cheap to replace and this is how I make sure things are removable.
Occasional fine sanding and oiling the steel shaft is still necessary once in a while as I also have windsurfing year round as a sport in salt water and the water vapor gets on my bike.
There are probably some other ways others may have to add, but hope this will help.
==================
I'm still wondering myself if the trouble I have with getting the centrifugal clutch of mine on the engine crank shaft turned around 180 degrees (the bell on the inside) can be solved short of modifying the crankshaft keyway slot nearest the crankcase cover oil seal.
The key way cut on the engine crankshaft closest to the crankcase cover oil seal is a rounded sloped cut. I have had to modify the key to get it almost fully installed. Its not quite there, just 1.3 mili-meters short of having the end of the engine crankshaft even with the centrifugal clutch pulley.
I have had the people at Max Torque the manufacturer of my centrifugal clutch mention that turning the clutch around is OK to do as the shoes on the one I have are symmetrical and grip either way. I want to have it install like this so I have the belt further away from the engine so I can fit the flat idler pulley I am to get in the mail tomorrow.
I'll be checking with Briggs and Stratton what they know of this too. Any help appreciated!
Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
See posts #93 and #94 on page 10 for pics of the problem
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=454501#post454501
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=10
MT
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I'll try that out today Mt, and on your clutch problem;
If the keyway in the clutch drum goes all the way through, as in you can see it looking at the back o the drum, couldn't you just place the key into the way , then tap it into the space with a hammer and punch? It wouldn't exactly be a full length key, but it would get the clutch very close to the oil seal.
If the keyway in the clutch drum goes all the way through, as in you can see it looking at the back o the drum, couldn't you just place the key into the way , then tap it into the space with a hammer and punch? It wouldn't exactly be a full length key, but it would get the clutch very close to the oil seal.
Unfortunately it is only half way slot for keyway in the clutch, but I am thinking I will grind the opposite end of the key I modified. I'll just take 1.3 mili-meters off and that is not much. It will be flush with the crankshaft end then.
Some keys like the ones I modified have a round end not exact to way I needed it by the engine crankshaft oil seal, but they are there anyway. I believe the manufacturers curved end of the key is probably extending at least 1.3 mili-meters from where the curved end starts. This means squaring it off will allow it will grab more on the inside of the clutches 1/2 length square cut keyway anyway.
I may still find I will put the clutch back 180 degrees onto the engine crankshaft. That is with the pulley on the inside and I won't have to modify the key. It depends on how I can construct a bracket and fit an idler pulley I am to get tomorrow.
Thanks
Here is information on the split collars. They vary in price with material used, but for around 3, 5, and 7 dollars respectively there made of aluminum, steel, and stainless steel. No scratching the shafts with these bushings.
Note that I had to add a small spacer with the collars I got as the outer diameter would have rubbed on the pillow bearings. This can happen with regular collars too. The jack shaft kit from Azuza Engineering has pillow bearings that cannot have too large a collar diameter and the ones I found that do not mar up the shaft had already been ordered. The spacers fixed it so it works.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=327-8753&PMPXNO=22569677
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=1103&PMITEM=328-5149
MT
Some keys like the ones I modified have a round end not exact to way I needed it by the engine crankshaft oil seal, but they are there anyway. I believe the manufacturers curved end of the key is probably extending at least 1.3 mili-meters from where the curved end starts. This means squaring it off will allow it will grab more on the inside of the clutches 1/2 length square cut keyway anyway.
I may still find I will put the clutch back 180 degrees onto the engine crankshaft. That is with the pulley on the inside and I won't have to modify the key. It depends on how I can construct a bracket and fit an idler pulley I am to get tomorrow.
Thanks
Here is information on the split collars. They vary in price with material used, but for around 3, 5, and 7 dollars respectively there made of aluminum, steel, and stainless steel. No scratching the shafts with these bushings.
Note that I had to add a small spacer with the collars I got as the outer diameter would have rubbed on the pillow bearings. This can happen with regular collars too. The jack shaft kit from Azuza Engineering has pillow bearings that cannot have too large a collar diameter and the ones I found that do not mar up the shaft had already been ordered. The spacers fixed it so it works.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=327-8753&PMPXNO=22569677
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=1103&PMITEM=328-5149
MT
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