my henderson tribute
- Thread starter charliechaindrive.
- Start date
Started on my leaf spring fork today, following mr.b's plans he's posted around here before. Should be fun.
I'm officially using the henderson as my quarter 2 welding project, woohoo! Unlike all the other sap's who are copping out the easy way and making bolt-tractors.
I'm officially using the henderson as my quarter 2 welding project, woohoo! Unlike all the other sap's who are copping out the easy way and making bolt-tractors.
Made some progress on my leaf spring fork today
Allthough, I'll need to restart cause the welder at school was almos out of argon, so it looks like a flock of birds were over me while I was welding.
Allthough, I'll need to restart cause the welder at school was almos out of argon, so it looks like a flock of birds were over me while I was welding.
You should be proud of yourself, that's a nice looking piece of work. Going to make the front end of the bike really look the part. Never mind the birds;that's how we learn.
Going to be leading or trailing link?
Going to be leading or trailing link?
Thanks everyone, and goldy; they're going to be leading link. Because I'm using an old pair of monark fork dropouts.
And an update on the 6s, I still can't get those evil little points to work. I even bought the entire setup all new from the local SGE place. Its annoying! But, on my other white briggs and stratton from the mid 70's, I can start that thing cold on one pull.
If I can rig up a carburetor on it, I might use that one. Or, I've got one of my many techumseh's out in the shed that ie stripped all the cowl's off, and they actually shaped up to be pretty sweet looking. I'm taking it to school today, because for sme kind of a spirit week, we've got a half day of classes but we get from noon to 3:15 to screw around at school. Mr. Lindgren said he was going to let us work in the shop, on the high mileage car. And due to the fact that I am awesome, I can usually juggle working on my projcets and helping the other guys work on the car.
Should be an amazing day!
Ccd
And an update on the 6s, I still can't get those evil little points to work. I even bought the entire setup all new from the local SGE place. Its annoying! But, on my other white briggs and stratton from the mid 70's, I can start that thing cold on one pull.
If I can rig up a carburetor on it, I might use that one. Or, I've got one of my many techumseh's out in the shed that ie stripped all the cowl's off, and they actually shaped up to be pretty sweet looking. I'm taking it to school today, because for sme kind of a spirit week, we've got a half day of classes but we get from noon to 3:15 to screw around at school. Mr. Lindgren said he was going to let us work in the shop, on the high mileage car. And due to the fact that I am awesome, I can usually juggle working on my projcets and helping the other guys work on the car.
Should be an amazing day!
Ccd
If you could elaborate on what specifically you mean by the points don't work, even with the new parts you got.
Mechanically are the moving opened and closed. Does the movable part of the points come off the pivot, etc.
Pictures would be best to see. I found I may have had the spring on in a different way and eventually got it right and the movable part of the points did not come off the pivot. The line up of the points round end to contact the other side of the points was off and when the spring redone different they were better.
If the points physically work right and there is a problem with hot spark I always sand paper a little on all the places I can on the mounting of the points and magneto. I add external star tooth lock washers as well. The flywheel I sand any rust off and actually use the counter weight side of the flywheel with the sand paper in it as I adjust the magneto as close as possible to the flywheel. Then while turning the flywheel I pull the sand paper out.
The testing of the magneto and the condenser I would try to find specs if there is a concern.
Aside from the values for at least the condenser (being a capacitor), I can say it should not pass direct current. Separated from the engine with an ohm-meter on the condenser it would show initially some conduction and then go to high ohm value and stay there.
Taking the leads of the ohm-meter away for a few minutes or reversing the polarity will have the same results. Initially disconnecting the leads and leaving the same polarity it should be at the same high ohm reading which also means the capacitor is holding the charge for a short while.
The primary and secondary coil of the magneto testing I found this:
http://www.ehow.com/how_12078179_troubleshoot-magneto-coils.html
The condenser testing found:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5526059_test-condenser-small-engine.html
Your leaf spring is really looking good. It must be rewarding to do things from scratch and see it all come together.
MT
Mechanically are the moving opened and closed. Does the movable part of the points come off the pivot, etc.
Pictures would be best to see. I found I may have had the spring on in a different way and eventually got it right and the movable part of the points did not come off the pivot. The line up of the points round end to contact the other side of the points was off and when the spring redone different they were better.
If the points physically work right and there is a problem with hot spark I always sand paper a little on all the places I can on the mounting of the points and magneto. I add external star tooth lock washers as well. The flywheel I sand any rust off and actually use the counter weight side of the flywheel with the sand paper in it as I adjust the magneto as close as possible to the flywheel. Then while turning the flywheel I pull the sand paper out.
The testing of the magneto and the condenser I would try to find specs if there is a concern.
Aside from the values for at least the condenser (being a capacitor), I can say it should not pass direct current. Separated from the engine with an ohm-meter on the condenser it would show initially some conduction and then go to high ohm value and stay there.
Taking the leads of the ohm-meter away for a few minutes or reversing the polarity will have the same results. Initially disconnecting the leads and leaving the same polarity it should be at the same high ohm reading which also means the capacitor is holding the charge for a short while.
The primary and secondary coil of the magneto testing I found this:
http://www.ehow.com/how_12078179_troubleshoot-magneto-coils.html
The condenser testing found:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5526059_test-condenser-small-engine.html
Your leaf spring is really looking good. It must be rewarding to do things from scratch and see it all come together.
MT
Well, to be honest.I haven't really.got to trouble shoot/ fine adjust them. I'm debating on bringing it home and woking on it on the weekends because I can't ger more than a hour of work done at a shot at school, seems like just as yu get into the swing of things you need to start cleaning up.
Made headway on the forks today, got the base plate rewelded and reinforced, also cut up an annoying old 10 speed frame to get the blue-ish pieces you see on the forks. And I gotmy monark dropouts that I need to make patterns from. And it happened to come into my head, that I don't hink I've seen a henderson with a leaf spring fork on it. But, what the heck. Who's counting on details like that?
Got the forks pretty much roughed out
And here's how they look on the fram
I fgured out a way easier way to get photo's too, using my instagram!
And here's how they look on the fram
I fgured out a way easier way to get photo's too, using my instagram!
My china kit contributed to this project again, it donated the carburetor.
And I made the manifold a "universal" fit, so I can use it on my 6s, the white briggs (pictured) and my vintageized techumseh if I wanted to.
I am also currently drawing a plan for the jackshaft setup.
And I made the manifold a "universal" fit, so I can use it on my 6s, the white briggs (pictured) and my vintageized techumseh if I wanted to.
I am also currently drawing a plan for the jackshaft setup.
working on placing my jackshaft in the old crank housing, I still need to trim a ¼ inch off either side to get the bearings inboard a bit more.
That's all, folks.
Cheers, ccd
That's all, folks.
Cheers, ccd
Have you had a chance to try the engine under load with that carb? I'd be interested in knowing if they can be tuned to work on a four stroke. Jack shaft is looking good so far...spring is coming, work faster!!!
Goldy- actually just today, I tried the carb on the white motor when it was on my rupp gremlin gokart, and with the slide needle on the lowest clip it has a suprisingly wider rev range than I even thought possible with this engine. I believe that this carb works better on a four stroke than it did on the two stroke! I think I would actually think of recomending to people who are running four strokes, to give it a shot with these little carbs.
Well, well, thanks for the update! Maybe one of these days I should go out and see if I can beg steal or borrow one from one of my buddies.
Eh, I'll post a pic of the gremlin here too. I love this thing, yesterday I was running it so much that I wore a trench through the Ice along the back driveway, and made a pretty fair mudpit from it.
She goes like a scalded cat with the china carburetor on it, but I didn't like how frequently the gas line fell off, so I swapped back to the old flow jet carb. The difference in the power is surprising..
She goes like a scalded cat with the china carburetor on it, but I didn't like how frequently the gas line fell off, so I swapped back to the old flow jet carb. The difference in the power is surprising..
Is that the same carb you have on your bike? The longer intake has a efect on it also,gives more midrange power. Check out some of the poformance options you can get from AGK and use them as guid lines. ..........Curt
PS check out msrfan's build the long intake
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=25248
PS check out msrfan's build the long intake
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=25248
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Thanks for the tip curt! I'll take a look at some of the mods that AGK up. And I'll be using the white motor on the gremlin, and the china carb will most likely go on a tecumseh that I've de-cowled and dolled up to look old.
And that build by msrfan is really well done!
And that build by msrfan is really well done!
