Would this work?

Walter F.

Walter F.

New Member
I think the way we mount the sprocket is a real weak point in the whole scheme of things and I was wandering...Here's the deal, I have a coaster brake,I think I've found cable brakes that will adapt, sooo I want to take the rear wheel, remove coaster brake arm, if necessary gut brake, take wheel turn it 180 degrees so sprocket is on the drive side of the bike, then take the sprocket off and see if Andy at Kings can make me a 44 tooth or whatever sprocket and mount it where the little sprocket used to be??? I know, Uncle Kudzu - "How you going to pedal" short answer I ain't, this is a wintertime project on the "KID" - he's a 20" bike and I'm 6' tall so pedaling is a bummer. I plan on losing the pedals to a pull start kit. your "Macaroni Burner" has a kick start don't it?
 
If you are turning the wheel around, use a stock sprocket....

I have removed the shoes and spun a wheel like that for fun and experiments, I think it would work fine.
 
Wait a second you lost me, when you say stock sprocket did you mean the little sprocket that's on there now? You would need the Bonneville Salt Flats to wind out at something over a 100 mph. If you meant the stock sprocket that comes with the kit, wouldn't the hub need to be modified, hole smaller? My wheel is mounted on the bike right now, but if I remember correctly theres just a "c" ring holding the little sprocket on the coaster brake right now, I'm just not sure whats on the other side of the little sprocket. Look fellas it's been 57 years since I had a coaster brake tore apart and spread out all over the floor. Happy Trails To All (c) Walter F.
 
Once you removed the small sprocket, brake shoes and turn the wheel around, you could just mount the kit sprocket to the wheel since it connects to the spokes anyhow.

Or did I misread the original post? You did say you would turn the wheel around, yes?
 
You might have missed my first sentence:" I think the way we mount the sprocket is the weak link...". I want to mount/marry 44 tooth sprocket to old coaster brake hub/boom it's on an has to be centered with the wheel &&&& it will be easier to align the chain way between motor & rear wheel. Kapish??(c) Walter F. Fight against sprockets clamped to spokes
 
I have never had a problem with the way the sprockets bolt to the wheel!!
Bolt the sprocket on the way it's supposed to be! (it works just fine!)

If you're really serious about removing the pedals... That sprocket comes off with a round clip, remove it & then remove your brake arm, but DO NOT FLIP THE WHEEL BACKWARDS!!! (you never know what problems might happen with the internal brake spinning in the opposite direction!!)
 
But you can only go backwards unless you plan on fixing it there. You can remove the brake pads but you'll just be spinning. You'll have to do like they do fixie hubs and I'm at a loss as to how fixie hubs are done.
 
VENICE BOY said:
I have never had a problem with the way the sprockets bolt to the wheel!!
Bolt the sprocket on the way it's supposed to be! (it works just fine!)

If you're really serious about removing the pedals... That sprocket comes off with a round clip, remove it & then remove your brake arm, but DO NOT FLIP THE WHEEL BACKWARDS!!! (you never know what problems might happen with the internal brake spinning in the opposite direction!!)
Click to expand...

Let me try to explain what's going on in my head. 1. take off wheel 2. take coaster brake apart, leaving a wheel with a hub that you can see thru, empty, like my head, 3. this is the part that's fuzzy, I need to take a sprocket and somehow center and lock it to the hub. I guess some kind of spacer the inside diameter of the hub could be made and mounted to sprocket, but how would I get this to become one with the wheel? Remember I want the sprocket centered in the hub, because the hub is centered with the wheel.

Mounted this way all forces act on the hub, NOT the spokes. There is a better way. We just haven't found it yet.(c) Walter F.
 
HI Walter,

Probably the easiest way to accomplish what you are trying to achieve (perfectly mounting a sprocket) is to replace the coaster brake hub with a disc brake hub and use one of our sprockets (they come pre drilled to be mounted in place of the disc brake rotor)....This has proven to work fine for most users...

However, if you want to achieve a better chain line too (remember mounting the sprocket to the rotor location on a disc brake hub does place the sprocket further out away from the spokes)...we do make a Disc Hub Adapter to mount the sprocket further inboard (We also make a Top Hat adapter that not only enables one to mount the disc on the disc hub BUT also retain use of the disc brake itself.

Hope this helps you.

Andrew
 
Walter F. said:
Let me try to explain what's going on in my head. 1. take off wheel 2. take coaster brake apart, leaving a wheel with a hub that you can see thru, empty, like my head, 3. this is the part that's fuzzy, I need to take a sprocket and somehow center and lock it to the hub. I guess some kind of spacer the inside diameter of the hub could be made and mounted to sprocket, but how would I get this to become one with the wheel? Remember I want the sprocket centered in the hub, because the hub is centered with the wheel.

Mounted this way all forces act on the hub, NOT the spokes. There is a better way. We just haven't found it yet.(c) Walter F.
Click to expand...

I really sounds like a lot unnessesary work to me?
Bolting it through the spokes works just fine!!
(has anyone ever had a problem with bolting it through the spokes?)
I try to encourage people NOT to fix things that aren't broken, (& also not to make things more complicated than they have to be!)
My bikes are all very reliable because I keep them simple, the way the factory designed it to work!
But, if you absolutly can't resist the urge to over-think, over-complicate, & re-invent the wheel... GOOD LUCK TO YOU!!! :-{

:ride2:
 
Isn't there a product out there that eliminates the need to mount the sproket to the spokes? I can't remember where I seen it, but it is a clamp of some sort that mounts to the hub. I believe it was around the $50 range.
 
Well I really didn't wanna change hubs Andy, let me ask you this, if I send you my complete rear wheel could you change my coaster brake to a "Fixie" ( a new word I just learned) with a sprocket of yet to be determined number of teeth? I'll figure out the rim brakes. The clutch on the engine will allow me to roll backward if need be, so all it takes is my money and your brainpower?! What do you think?? Walter F.
 
That might be just the ticket, I'm not exactly sure how it works, but it looks promising!! Thanks gadgetman80, it just so happens I ordered a pull start kit from livefastmotors this last week, so I guess I'll find out about service real quick. Walter F.
 
Walter F. said:
You might have missed my first sentence:" I think the way we mount the sprocket is the weak link...". I want to mount/marry 44 tooth sprocket to old coaster brake hub/boom it's on an has to be centered with the wheel &&&& it will be easier to align the chain way between motor & rear wheel. Kapish??(c) Walter F. Fight against sprockets clamped to spokes
Click to expand...

My bad totally....guess I was having a super A.D.D. day.... we out!
 
VENICE BOY said:
I really sounds like a lot unnessesary work to me?
Bolting it through the spokes works just fine!!
(has anyone ever had a problem with bolting it through the spokes?)
I try to encourage people NOT to fix things that aren't broken, (& also not to make things more complicated than they have to be!)
My bikes are all very reliable because I keep them simple, the way the factory designed it to work!
But, if you absolutly can't resist the urge to over-think, over-complicate, & re-invent the wheel... GOOD LUCK TO YOU!!! :-{

:ride2:
Click to expand...

Which factory did you mean, the factory that made the wheel or the factory that made the kit. I'm not trying to re-invent, just trying to improve. HAPPY TRAILS Walter F.
 
Walter F. said:
Wait a second you lost me, when you say stock sprocket did you mean the little sprocket that's on there now? You would need the Bonneville Salt Flats to wind out at something over a 100 mph. If you meant the stock sprocket that comes with the kit, wouldn't the hub need to be modified, hole smaller? My wheel is mounted on the bike right now, but if I remember correctly theres just a "c" ring holding the little sprocket on the coaster brake right now, I'm just not sure whats on the other side of the little sprocket. Look fellas it's been 57 years since I had a coaster brake tore apart and spread out all over the floor. Happy Trails To All (c) Walter F.
Click to expand...

I will answer my own question. The way a coaster brake is made and you turn the wheel around, the direction the sprocket will travel would simply lock-up the wheel like putting on brakes.

I still haven't given up on finding a better way of mounting the sprocket to the rear wheel. I thought of using a front wheel free wheel unit and screwing a disc brake adapter into it and mounting a sprocket instead of a disc/rotor, but it screws in the wrong way and the sprocket would simply unscrew under power, or would it?? I need my "inhaler" with my "nervous medicine" in it.ALL thoughts and comments welcome. I'm gonna figure this out!!! Happy Trails Walter F.
 
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