Would it be smart to solder my engine to the frame of my bike?
- Thread starter bob1352
- Start date
Yeah, definitely not a good idea. Post a couple of photos of your set up at the front mount and we can probably give you some better ideas. Good thing that you asked before hand.
I'd hope you have already looked at the alternative mount area here. In this case, the quick way would be to use the flat plate & u-bolt that comes with the kit. The fit is so close to good though, that there may be other options for you to get a cleaner look. If the mounting studs are wide enough to go past the frame, then they could be replaced by longer ones, while the gap between motor and frame could be filled with a metal piece or PVC. Depending on how much metal is between threads in frame and the cutout area, you could use a dremel to widen front of motor a bit also.
Not sure about the clanking issues but as long as your sprockets are lined up side to side you should be able to find a way to make the necessary clearance to stop clanking.
For the mounting, since the mount and frame are not parallel, I would suggest trying to fill that gap between the engine and frame with jb weld and let it cure well overnight or even a full 24 hours if you can stand the waiting. Rough up both surfaces a bit so you get some bite and really pack it in there so no air pockets. Also consider putting a hose clamp or some such thing above the flat piece in front of the frame to keep it from creeping upwards.
For the mounting, since the mount and frame are not parallel, I would suggest trying to fill that gap between the engine and frame with jb weld and let it cure well overnight or even a full 24 hours if you can stand the waiting. Rough up both surfaces a bit so you get some bite and really pack it in there so no air pockets. Also consider putting a hose clamp or some such thing above the flat piece in front of the frame to keep it from creeping upwards.
I disagree - that gap in front where whole force of the motor is hitting the frame at just the two tips of the mount is very bad (I've seen that pressure spread the cases till compression is lost) - all that is needed is a chunk of metal or PVC that sits in the space so tips of motor mounts don't touch frame there.
Can't say much about the noise as that vid is too tiny - pics might help, but wondering if pedal chain is hitting motor.
Can't say much about the noise as that vid is too tiny - pics might help, but wondering if pedal chain is hitting motor.
I was the chain snaped when I rode it. So I guess I'll need to realine the engine gear and back sprocket. And i'll se about filling that gap. I problem is those bolts
are about a short as they go. Idk if I can make the gap any bigger. What you guys suggest?
My advice would be to follow crassius advice. Looking at your video it seems that you have headroom to raise the motor up a bit which may help your clanking issue.
Are you saying that the chain broke? If it came apart at the master link make sure when you put it back together that the retaining clip points toward the engine on the upper run of chain. Otherwise it can catch on something and pop off.
Are you saying that the chain broke? If it came apart at the master link make sure when you put it back together that the retaining clip points toward the engine on the upper run of chain. Otherwise it can catch on something and pop off.
Before I bought a chain breaker, I knew how to take apart chain. This way was not quite as easy with vise and hammer with center punch. Some times a link would not move free as the others. After adjusting the width of the sides of the links it would free up and move freely. I was thinking along the same lines, if you had a chain come off it could have done similarly to one or more links. Time to wait to buy chain is a little issue, but I bought a large length and have extra for another replacement. Something maybe you already are aware of. I bought through Amazon, but Ebay, and many other sellers online makes it easy.
Ouch..! File or dreml that mount opened or your frame might not live long. Those studs will snap.
As I look at the pictures, there are some it seems where the mount has the studs removed. The picture where I see the stud in the picture, it seems to be bent to go around the bike frame tube.
If this is what I think I saw, then grinding or what ever to make the mount to be the larger radius to fit the frame tubes may not be all that is required. Having the studs being bent weakens them and also puts pressure on the bike frame tubes in a way that was not intended and also may weaken the tubes.
If there is enough room in the frame to make a kind of adapter bracket, that goes between what exists already on the engine mounts, and then exactly fits the frame that could be an idea. Only that even if that could be done it would be ingenious to be done without special tools. But not that it cannot be done.
For example I have a motor bike (not really bike any more as no pedals), where I had mini bike foot pegs. Then I wanted more grip using fold back motorcycle dirt bike foot pegs. To get the mounting at the correct angle I welded some metal and drilled holes. Bolted the adapter in place and did not have to resort to welding the newer pegs on permanently
I looked at the two screws that holds the case, but also definitely the place that the studs comes out at 90 degree angle to it. If those two screws have enough strength to be used in some way to add and adapter here is an idea. What about using two longer screws to fasten and adapter that could have the studs mounted a bit further separated. This way they clear the frame tube without touching and bending that may be an idea?
If this is what I think I saw, then grinding or what ever to make the mount to be the larger radius to fit the frame tubes may not be all that is required. Having the studs being bent weakens them and also puts pressure on the bike frame tubes in a way that was not intended and also may weaken the tubes.
If there is enough room in the frame to make a kind of adapter bracket, that goes between what exists already on the engine mounts, and then exactly fits the frame that could be an idea. Only that even if that could be done it would be ingenious to be done without special tools. But not that it cannot be done.
For example I have a motor bike (not really bike any more as no pedals), where I had mini bike foot pegs. Then I wanted more grip using fold back motorcycle dirt bike foot pegs. To get the mounting at the correct angle I welded some metal and drilled holes. Bolted the adapter in place and did not have to resort to welding the newer pegs on permanently
I looked at the two screws that holds the case, but also definitely the place that the studs comes out at 90 degree angle to it. If those two screws have enough strength to be used in some way to add and adapter here is an idea. What about using two longer screws to fasten and adapter that could have the studs mounted a bit further separated. This way they clear the frame tube without touching and bending that may be an idea?
https://motorbicycling.com/attachments/2017-09-16-15-52-24-jpg.95961/
See post number 6. The first of two pics I see, seems like this is studs and a plate with slight radius curve.
See post number 6. The first of two pics I see, seems like this is studs and a plate with slight radius curve.
Yeah sometimes they come with a unversil mount that works okay for fatter tubes.
AApparently you don't have one. So this is the time to do custom things....rite? When you customize your bike you might need to do custom things. . My way to remedy that issue with the front mount would be to file the sides of the mount till she slipped in. Then I would snug the rear mount in place so the studs are 75-90 degrees of the seat tube then if you have any gap at all in the front use a good solid expoxi to fill it in. The rear mount takes most of the tork so don't let any gap at all in the rear. When all mounts are snuged dry fit the exhust and carb if not yet installed. Strap you muffler as low as you can and strap it to the frame...or use the ten millimeter nut or bolt on the muffler and attach it to you kick stand mount behind the bottom bracket. But try to secure it low.
AApparently you don't have one. So this is the time to do custom things....rite? When you customize your bike you might need to do custom things. . My way to remedy that issue with the front mount would be to file the sides of the mount till she slipped in. Then I would snug the rear mount in place so the studs are 75-90 degrees of the seat tube then if you have any gap at all in the front use a good solid expoxi to fill it in. The rear mount takes most of the tork so don't let any gap at all in the rear. When all mounts are snuged dry fit the exhust and carb if not yet installed. Strap you muffler as low as you can and strap it to the frame...or use the ten millimeter nut or bolt on the muffler and attach it to you kick stand mount behind the bottom bracket. But try to secure it low.
