wires helpppp please

[giddyuperic]

Hello Out of the engine I have white .blue and one black so on the coil I have blue and black now that leaves the white one. Then I have the kill wires one red and one black??? Do I plug the red into the blue and the black into the black and just cover the white one for now?? The white one is for power for a light or some thing right? the manual if you would like to call it that say yellow to white and green I don't have any wires that color. I have out of the engine white.blue,black leave the white one, out of the coil blue, and black so I went blue to blue and black to black. Now that leaves the kill switch it has red and one black that it. My head hurts I got one book with the kit and it was so bad they sent me another one please help. Thank you very much for you time have not even put gas in her yet so nothing as been fired up

 

[2door]

Wire colors from the kill switch (button) aren't important. The kill switch is just a simple normally open switch. Wire colors don't matter.

Wire the engine, black to black, blue to blue and splice in the two wires from the kill switch to those. Insulate the white wire. It is not used. It is there to supposedly provide power for lights but it doesn't provide enough current for a light bright enough to use. Many of us remove the white wire from the magneto completely. Most new magnetos don't have a white wire.

Tom

 

[bluegoatwoods]

You're on the right track. The white wire is meant to power a 6 volt headlight. But that's best avoided. What I hear is that this actually robs your ignition of power at crucial moments. You're best off just capping that white wire off and not using it.

As for the kill switch wires, just hook one up to the blue and one up to the black. It doesn't matter which one goes to which. Those kill switch wires could be any color and it wouldn't matter. And, it seems, they actually do come in all different colors.

So, you're almost there. Wire them up well and fasten them down well. Quickie wiring jobs tend to work loose or ground against the frame.

Leaving you tearing your hair out wondering why it started up and ran for an afternoon and then just quit.

 

[2door]

Blue is right. Those connections (splices) need to be good. We always suggest soldering and protecting the splice with heat shrink tubing. Loose wiring connections can cause you lots of headaches. Don't rely on those kit supplied push-together connectors. Soldered connections will give you a trouble-free installation.

Also make SURE that white wire cannot come in contact with anything. Wrap, insulate it well. Better yet, remove it completely.

Tom

 

[giddyuperic]

Thanks guys so I am almost there going to solder them. I am on my way to get my gas so I can take her down to the local collage tomorrow and fire her up???? And start the break in . Thanks everyone. Happy holidays and have a great new year.

 

[Dan]

Happy Holidays and new year to you too, Eric! TY

I wouldn't bother soldering them. At least not yet, until you get her running. Not a biggie either way.

First time she fires up and is haulin' you down the road is quite a high and good feeling!

 

[2door]

I don't know why anyone would suggest against soldering the wiring connections. If you can solder then de-soldering them would be easy if the need arises. In the interim you'd be assured of good electrical connections that are critical to proper engine performance and you'll eliminate one of the most common causes of new builder problems.

Tom

 

[Dan]

Not worth bothering until every thing checks out. No biggie either way. Conecting 2 wires does not seem to be a plague.

No biggie either way.

 

[KCvale]

I don't know why anyone would suggest against soldering the wiring connections.
Tom

I replace that crappy stock wiring with double insulated 16g black cable.

Just cut the old wire off at the magneto and solder up hot and ground on the new one.
Note what color you used, in this case blue is now on the red wire and black on the new white wire.

Note that the new magnetos don't have a white wire so you just go direct to the lugs.

Place your CDI where you want it and solder up the magneto and kill button wires.

Then just cap it off with a hobby box.

I put a keylock switch in some, all it does is short out the ignition like the kill button so it won't start.

Pop in an NGK 5944 (BPR7HIX) Iridium spark plug and you have a nice spark all the time.