Will carb work tilted a little sideways?

toytime

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I'm having so many problems fitting my kit to an electric bike. It just seems that , with the Jackshaft and all, there is no room because the electrics are in the way. The battery box is in the way of the jackshaft but that was expected. The plastic case will hide my hidden gas tank and the batteries will be on a rear rack. My front mount is about two inches from the frame but I can deal with that.
Now I notice that the carb will fit, but only with the air filter removed. The big problem is the cable as it bumps up against the upper crossbar. All I think it would take is to twist the carb a little so that the cable misses the cross bar. In other words, there is only about a half inch of space above the carb. I'm almost tempted to drill a hole through the crossbar and running the cable through it. It is a very strong frame with mega supports in the area (about three inches ahead the seat post).
What to do?
 

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jasonh

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Jun 23, 2008
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I would not drill your frame.

Also, the carb may leak if tilted, and the float may not function properl.y. I would fabricate a new intake manifold to move the carb to the side. If you have access to a welder, I'm sure a 90deg conduit bend would work. Copper pipe/fittings would work too, and you could probably just silver solder them with a torch.

Norman may be able to help you out as well, I think he's made intakes for people before.
 

toytime

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I thought about that too, but it would just be tilted a very small amount but I could see the float giving a false reading.
I guess I'll search out "carb mods" or "intake ".
 

Bikeguy Joe

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Jan 8, 2008
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If it is only tilted a little, it should work, the bike runs when you go around a corner leaning, doesn't it?

The float chamber is a resevior of sorts, so it will just have a little less in it.
 

jasonh

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You do have a point there Joe :)

My carb is tilted a little forward just because of how the motor mounts to the bike. The only REAL issue is that it is more prone to leak than if it's level.
 

MB-Monkey

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i have a 90* intake installed on my bike because of a clearance problem with the CNS carb.

A pocket bike guy welded it for me i haven't had any fuel problems. He also uses a 90 for Next bike installs.

Beware of the clutch arm if you make a 90 *intake tho My CNS clears it but my stock does no.
Also my stock carb is twisted slightly because it won't clear the clutch arm.
 

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toytime

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I found your thread yesterday MB but man those pics are hard to see. I just went out and bought a dig. camera so I will be posting pics of this build. It's just soooo cold out there in my shed that a couple of hours and my fingers can't touch the metal parts.
I guess if I had to, I could cut a V shape out of the manifold and bend it to postition and get it welded up but I will wait until the install is finished.
Like Joe said, it won't cost anything to try.
Thanks.
 

Norman

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hey if your intake manifold is the aluminum type a little filing on the flange should get you the offset clearance you need but if you need more I can make a custom intake out of steel that will work I've been asking $30.00 for them I include gaskets you will then need to buy a couple of socket head cap screws to replace the intake studs with or shorten the intake studs and use the thinnest nut you can find or work them over with a dremel.
Norman
 
Sep 20, 2008
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toytime,

If I remember correctly you had an altercation with the cops awhile back regarding your engine powered bike? Your bike was confiscated I think?

From this post I assume you are trying to build a sort of hybrid bike? You mentioned "hiding" the fuel tank in the original battery box, and mounting the batteries on a rack in the rear.

I'm assuming that the plan is to use the electric set-up while running the gauntlet past your favorite cop, and then go engine powered once out of his sight?

Before you go to all of this trouble...are you sure it's gonna fly. He may brand you a trouble maker and give you more grief! He may confiscate your new bike or more.

Maybe I read it wrong?

Anyway, Norman has a great idea...alter the angle of the intake at the flange, or better yet have him make you a custom one. Norman does good work.

Another thing you could do; based on the fact that you have 2" between the engine and frame at the front. Move the engine forward, and make a spacer for the rear.

Jim
 

MB-Monkey

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moving the engine forward was what was recommended for me as well but i had everything setup and my chain cut was why i did mine this way the carb came with longer bolts and a spacer in the kit. I am in the need of a stock straight intake as i went back to stock until my next build.

Also keep in mind that hanging the carb off the side also puts the carb in your way i have caught my pants on it and pulled it loose a time or two.
 
Sep 20, 2008
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moving the engine forward was what was recommended for me as well but i had everything setup and my chain cut was why i did mine this way the carb came with longer bolts and a spacer in the kit. I am in the need of a stock straight intake as i went back to stock until my next build.

Also keep in mind that hanging the carb off the side also puts the carb in your way i have caught my pants on it and pulled it loose a time or two.
MB,

I have a gazillion stock intake manifolds, I've been making my own.. Go to paypal and put a couple bucks in my paypal account and I'll ship you one tomorrow.

account: [email protected]

Jim
 

Norman

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here is a picture of my offset carb your not going to snag a pant leg on this carb.
Norman
 

toytime

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Norman-that is a fantastic idea filing it so that it veers to the right a bit, otherwise I'll keep your offer in mind. I could even go with a wedge shaped gasket type of thing. you've given me some great ideas Norm!
Creative- You've got my number, I'm a scofflaw. I ended up with a $500 fine. The cop is from the local, in town only police. Most of my riding is on OPP roads and the snowmobile trails (hundreds of miles) so I will ride accordingly.
To be honest with you I don't really know what I'm doing. I did not want to spend money on making my electric work as it should but with the motor and jackshaft, I could have spent the money on a $500 "ping" battery and a second electric motor and controler. Funny thing is that I may still end up doing it. I'm also thinking china girl on rear rack running an alternator to make myself 100% legal or a trailer with a generator powering a 120 volt drive train.
Anyhow, it seems that I now have a problem with the chain going to the freewheel, from the jackshaft. I can't lower the motor due to that metal box under the battery box. It holds the electric stuff. If I go higher, I will really have carb fitting probs. I have to get a half link and will have to come up with a spring loaded thing to keep the chain tight as I don't think I'll be able to raise the engine as Pablo suggests. He also says we should not use a link but as things are now, I have no choice. I was just thinking, My front mount is not even close to the frame, if I were to use spacers about an inch thick on the rear "Pablo (SBP) mounts", that would bring the motor forward and may let me lower the engine a bit. I took pics today but I have to re-size them.
I think I've had enough for today, it's a real pain working on this because you have to remove and reinstall so many parts over and over again as you play with it and each time you solve one problem, you create another..bld.

Geez norm, how can I post pics like that? Teach an old guy.
 
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Norman

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don't get me to lieing I just shoot them and put them in photo bucket and then post them.
another angle shot of off set carb and a side view of my pipe and muffler I roll them myself and welded them up
bottom picture is my over loaded stable of bikes anyone need a bike?
 
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toytime

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Norm, You have two red bikes posted, one with chrome muffler and one with the black one. Can you show the front motor mount of the red bike with black muffler? That is about how mine may look, I think.
I'll head over to photbucket now and open an account.
 

toytime

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Opened photobucket account- noticed pics were auto resized-saved to my computer-easy way out for a guy who has no clue.
First pic- Seat raised high because battery box can't rest at bottom because of jackshaft.
2nd pic- can see carb twisted to side, the cable will be the big issue. Jackshaft can be seen "in the way"
3rd pic- not a very good view of carb-must learn to use new camera!
4th pic- What was I thinking? Earlier I said I may be able to move engine forward with spacers. Looking at this pic reminded me of the fact that the jackshaft will not allow forward moves.
Last pic- may remove batteries, trim box to let it drop into place and use as gas tank holder.
 

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Norman

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jb weld used to bed in front engine mount used flush mount screw to mount plate to engine
bolt goes through frame and into mounting plate with a plastic lock nut

bolt head with large washer may drill hole over size and weld in a tube in the hole if I can find right color paint then that would be stronger than the rest of the bike.
Toytime here you go as requested pictures
the red bike with the chrome muffler is the same bike I have 2 bikes almost alike both have home rolled pipes now and no factory muffler. I drilled the frame tube to use the front mount on both no rocket science. Alot of people frown on drilling the down tube saying it weakens the frame its their opinion. Its my bike so if they don't like it don't look at it I have no problem with it and the one bike is over a year old and has had been ridden quite regularly with no problem or frame problem with it being drilled.
Norman
 
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lordoflightaz

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Reading what you said about pic 4, Why not go way more forward and up? You would have to make a longer bracket to connect rear of engine, shaft would be in front of up tube.
 

toytime

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Never thought of that Lordoflightaz, that may just work. I'll have to have a look today. That would solve all of my possible problems. I bought a small welder so making up a mount would be possible. You've given me reason to go out in that cold shed-brilliant idea!
Norman, thanks for taking the time to get those pics for me. I'm surprised that jb stays in one piece without cracking. I have no problems with drilling that one hole on a steel frame.