Why is this stock sprocket so annoying to put on?
- Thread starter NerpAngel
- Start date
I think putting the sprocket on is the hardest part. I used a big flat head screwdriver to wedge in there and turned it to get them so they don't overflap.
Put it on and tighten it up so the things overlap like you said, don't tighten it all the way, put the screwdriver between where the pieces over lap, turn the screw driver so it pushes the plate on the top and the one on the bottom in opposite directions.
Sorry for the delay in report, but I guess you can tell what caused it 
I spent this morning getting the sprocket on and of course the words of wisdom here worked when using a flat head screwdriver. And yes.. I forgot who said it, but patience IS VERY IMPORTANT!! Do not rush the sprocket installation let me tell ya..
Anyways, got my sprocket on, fixed my chain tensioner, finally put some plumbers tape around the threads for the gas lever thingy, tried to fix my damn brakes but that's another story...
I'm just having fun breaking in this motor
I spent this morning getting the sprocket on and of course the words of wisdom here worked when using a flat head screwdriver. And yes.. I forgot who said it, but patience IS VERY IMPORTANT!! Do not rush the sprocket installation let me tell ya..
Anyways, got my sprocket on, fixed my chain tensioner, finally put some plumbers tape around the threads for the gas lever thingy, tried to fix my damn brakes but that's another story...
I'm just having fun breaking in this motor
Congratulations, Nerp.
Now go have some fun. Ride careful and keep an eye on that tensioner. We don't want to hear that you had a disaster with it. If you need help with your brakes, you know where to come for advice.
Tom
Now go have some fun. Ride careful and keep an eye on that tensioner. We don't want to hear that you had a disaster with it. If you need help with your brakes, you know where to come for advice.
Tom
These brakes will work for the time being. I'm just using this first gallon of gas to break in the motor. After it's broken in I will have my shift kit from sick bike parts here (maybe march) and I'll stick that on my much much newer mountain bike that I will feel MUCH more safe on hahaha.
Yupper. Either pry apart with a flat blade, like I did, or spend the 40 bucks on a C.E. Sprocket adapter, which I'm about to do. Jim is the man. Everyone knows this to be true. So, pry 'em apart, get 'em tightened down, order the adapter, install the adapter, and live happily ever after.
I don't see what the downside of grinding the pieces is. If I had read this forum first I may have tried forcing the pieces on, but it appeared there was no way. By taking 1/16" off each end it went together so easy.
I recently double stacked a 48 tooth onto the 44 tooth. So I can change the ratio by just splicing in a few extra links.
Rod S
I recently double stacked a 48 tooth onto the 44 tooth. So I can change the ratio by just splicing in a few extra links.
Rod S
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I tightened the bolts a bit and used the force of a rubber hammer and screw driwer to force them down, to the side by side state. Then I carefully tightened those two pieces closest to where they met, then forced the third one down the same way, screwed, used the hammer and sdrivwr again. It's not hard, its just patience.
I went through the steps as indicated in my manual carefully taking in the fact that the two Haves are different, They are: one larger, and one smaller, My book was a bad reprint and was totally confusing I was told thre to cut one gasket using the bigger side as my template.
then stick the bigger side in first etc.
But I t seemed I was getting nowhere and I got comments on here about how cockeyed it looked.
a week passed and I was out riding around with my pike of parts in my trunk and checking in at local bike shops.
a young entrapanuer had a hlf assembled kit bike in his showroom I told him my situation and the coaster brake issue that complicates things even further, Short Shot is that I put only one gasket, I reemed my 9 holes because the impossible thing with these gaskets is that they are swelled uo around the bolts and retard finger stregnth instakkation. I tried mine so many times that I got out my Bosh gun and attached that size socket and shot them in in seconds.
I then sucked it all togetherwith the largers size of this half cirlcle taking the prioitys and set one nut to keep it from running out if I looked away. works perfect use a screw gun on it.
I trued my sprocket too I just kept cinhing it bit by bit
they say do it right and forget about it "Set It and Forget It"
then stick the bigger side in first etc.
But I t seemed I was getting nowhere and I got comments on here about how cockeyed it looked.
a week passed and I was out riding around with my pike of parts in my trunk and checking in at local bike shops.
a young entrapanuer had a hlf assembled kit bike in his showroom I told him my situation and the coaster brake issue that complicates things even further, Short Shot is that I put only one gasket, I reemed my 9 holes because the impossible thing with these gaskets is that they are swelled uo around the bolts and retard finger stregnth instakkation. I tried mine so many times that I got out my Bosh gun and attached that size socket and shot them in in seconds.
I then sucked it all togetherwith the largers size of this half cirlcle taking the prioitys and set one nut to keep it from running out if I looked away. works perfect use a screw gun on it.
I trued my sprocket too I just kept cinhing it bit by bit
they say do it right and forget about it "Set It and Forget It"
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I got a joint kit that wouldn't fit too, finally took it off -overlaid the bolt patterns and the stupid inner plates were made wrong.
Took an eight off each butt edge and the inner plates fit fine. This was the 6mm kit from a vendor here, the 8mm I got last year from him was fine.
See, if things are made right the struggle gets smaller.
Took an eight off each butt edge and the inner plates fit fine. This was the 6mm kit from a vendor here, the 8mm I got last year from him was fine.
See, if things are made right the struggle gets smaller.
Its funny that if it doesnt work, just pull out the grinder! and chop it off haha.
Im sorry but 99% of the time its opperator error. If you lay the 3 piece and the 2 piece over the sprocket the holes line up yes?
If you want to do it right my advice is to use a drill and drill the holes in the rubber a tad bigger and hey presto it will fit
Im sorry but 99% of the time its opperator error. If you lay the 3 piece and the 2 piece over the sprocket the holes line up yes?
If you want to do it right my advice is to use a drill and drill the holes in the rubber a tad bigger and hey presto it will fit
I've done four rear sprockets so far and haven't had a problem with the segmented ring overlapping. I did have to redrill a sprocket I bought that had the nine holes further out from the center than the three ring segments did. If the holes in the segments will line up with the holes on the sprocket without over lapping they'll do it when installed on the wheel. I usually start out by installing three bolts, one in the center of each segment and pull the plates down a bit. Then I install the remaining bolts and bring them all down a bit at a time. During this whole process I make sure the sprocket stays true and has minimal coaxial error with the wheel hub so that the chain won't go tight and slack as the wheel turns. If the plates start to over lap, pull outward on the wrench in the center of each segment as you snug it up. The holes in the rubber may not be perfectly aligned with the holes in the sprocket or the segments but the rubber will stretch. I use an battery drill to run the nuts down to save time and work but do the final tightening by hand to prevent snapping off any bolts. The bolts must be fairly tight, I have had a sprocket shift after it was on the bike. The chain had the same slack as the wheel turned but after a few rides the chain was going slack and tight. It doesn't take much migration of the sprocket to make a bit difference. I try to keep the off center of the sprocket within three or four thousandths of an inch. It ain't easy but if you keep at it you can get it very close to concentric with the wheel and no run out or wobble. If the sprocket runs true and the driven and driving sprockets lined up properly there's little chance of a chain jumping the sprocket even if the slack was a bit excessive.
I think on my next engine I'll like up the pieces before they go on the wheel and see what lines up. Evidently the problem is with the rag joint, and if so i would enlarge the holes in that. I used the grinder to get my first one to fit. Regarding alignment the sprocket was a perfect fit on my mountain bike wheel, but I can see a definate problem if it isn't.
Rod S
Rod S
If grinding off a small bit dosen't hurt and makes it an easier and quicker install, I find it amazing that anyone would rather go through the struggle. Some are harder then others.
