Quenton has my 99 motor now. It already had his upgrade parts on it. It did 50 on a good day before I sent it to him. I'm anxious to see how it performs when I get it back. 
Whizzer Powered BTR
- Thread starter sportscarpat
- Start date
Hi everyone,
Happy New Year!
There are various stages of "tune" for the new edition Whizzer motor. Most of the serious testing was run against several OHV Whizzers, and my motors are within 1 MPH of the OHV record. The fastest of my motors have never run against the OHV motors and I am sure it can exceed them.
My most common build averages about 50 MPH [average rider on level roads]. 99% of my builds use stock bore & stroke [57MM X 54 MM]. The majority maintain stock ignition setting [14 degrees BTDC]. All have the head milled, most at .065", some at .090". All have the combustion chamber reworked. All have stock exhaust port size, however the top of the port is blended for high flow. Most have a 18 MM intake port, some have 19 MM, some have 20.8 MM, some have 26 MM, and a few have a tapered intake port.
Many modified motors use the original 17.9 MM carburetor, some use 22 MM, and all my personal motors sport the massive 26 MM carburetor.
Heads vary, depending on usuage and which is available. Original heads can be the NE, SE, or NE-r versions. Upgraded heads can be either the special "Weber" or "Tri" chamber version.
Camshafts are normally the original WC-1, NE, or SE versions. I have 3 special custom camshafts [not for sale], however aren't good for street use.
Typical motor would be a WC-1 with my NE/SE reworked cylinder & head, using the stock camshaft & carburetor. The typical motor will cruise at 45 MPH and can exceed 50 MPH. A slighty hotter version would be using the rare Whizzer "oval" pattern head, milled .065", a .010" custom copper head gasket, 22 MM or 26 MM carburetor. Would cruise at 50 MPH and exceed 55 MPH.
A serious motor would include the "Tri" head, 26 MM carburetor, tapered intake port [26 MM to 20.8 MM], tuned exhaust, high lift camshaft, & mushroom lifters. Would cruise at 55 MPH and exceed 60 MPH.
All out motor would include "Tri" head, high lift camshaft, mushroom lifters, tapered intake port, 26 MM carburetor, .010" copper head gasket, alternate cam ground racing piston, 59 MM bore, special lifters [not for sale], ignition triggered at 30 degrees BTDC [not for sale], and special tuned megaphone exhaust [not for sale]. Top speed 72 MPH, cruises at 60 MPH.
All my performance bikes have better brakes, I wear a helmet, and test on back roads with very little, if any traffic. I am a former MC racer [15 years] and understand handling and danger at higher speeds. However I normally ride most of my Whizzers between 35 MPH and 45 MPH.
I actually rode my twin powered Whizzer to 85 MPH, but due frame flex I have decided to modify the frame before future tests [I was scared!].
All but one of my bikes use the modified Whizzer automatic clutch.
Many have ridden my Whizzers and can verify the massive amount of power inside the motor.
Ask Jay about them, as he has ridden many of my Bikes including the record setting "wheelie" machine. You can see the "wheelie" Whizzer as my avatar [picture at top of page] running against a Whizzer "stroker" with almost 200 CCs. The "stroker" belongs to Kenny Thomas [leading Whizzer expert, and retired MC racer], and was ridden by his son in the picture. I ran his "stroker" the next year for him and won the "vintage" dirt track class [2009].
Hope this answered everyone's questions.
Have fun,
Happy New Year!
There are various stages of "tune" for the new edition Whizzer motor. Most of the serious testing was run against several OHV Whizzers, and my motors are within 1 MPH of the OHV record. The fastest of my motors have never run against the OHV motors and I am sure it can exceed them.
My most common build averages about 50 MPH [average rider on level roads]. 99% of my builds use stock bore & stroke [57MM X 54 MM]. The majority maintain stock ignition setting [14 degrees BTDC]. All have the head milled, most at .065", some at .090". All have the combustion chamber reworked. All have stock exhaust port size, however the top of the port is blended for high flow. Most have a 18 MM intake port, some have 19 MM, some have 20.8 MM, some have 26 MM, and a few have a tapered intake port.
Many modified motors use the original 17.9 MM carburetor, some use 22 MM, and all my personal motors sport the massive 26 MM carburetor.
Heads vary, depending on usuage and which is available. Original heads can be the NE, SE, or NE-r versions. Upgraded heads can be either the special "Weber" or "Tri" chamber version.
Camshafts are normally the original WC-1, NE, or SE versions. I have 3 special custom camshafts [not for sale], however aren't good for street use.
Typical motor would be a WC-1 with my NE/SE reworked cylinder & head, using the stock camshaft & carburetor. The typical motor will cruise at 45 MPH and can exceed 50 MPH. A slighty hotter version would be using the rare Whizzer "oval" pattern head, milled .065", a .010" custom copper head gasket, 22 MM or 26 MM carburetor. Would cruise at 50 MPH and exceed 55 MPH.
A serious motor would include the "Tri" head, 26 MM carburetor, tapered intake port [26 MM to 20.8 MM], tuned exhaust, high lift camshaft, & mushroom lifters. Would cruise at 55 MPH and exceed 60 MPH.
All out motor would include "Tri" head, high lift camshaft, mushroom lifters, tapered intake port, 26 MM carburetor, .010" copper head gasket, alternate cam ground racing piston, 59 MM bore, special lifters [not for sale], ignition triggered at 30 degrees BTDC [not for sale], and special tuned megaphone exhaust [not for sale]. Top speed 72 MPH, cruises at 60 MPH.
All my performance bikes have better brakes, I wear a helmet, and test on back roads with very little, if any traffic. I am a former MC racer [15 years] and understand handling and danger at higher speeds. However I normally ride most of my Whizzers between 35 MPH and 45 MPH.
I actually rode my twin powered Whizzer to 85 MPH, but due frame flex I have decided to modify the frame before future tests [I was scared!].
All but one of my bikes use the modified Whizzer automatic clutch.
Many have ridden my Whizzers and can verify the massive amount of power inside the motor
Ask Jay about them, as he has ridden many of my Bikes including the record setting "wheelie" machine. You can see the "wheelie" Whizzer as my avatar [picture at top of page] running against a Whizzer "stroker" with almost 200 CCs. The "stroker" belongs to Kenny Thomas [leading Whizzer expert, and retired MC racer], and was ridden by his son in the picture. I ran his "stroker" the next year for him and won the "vintage" dirt track class [2009].
Hope this answered everyone's questions.
Have fun,
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Thanks for all the information, Quenton. Your a wealth of knowledge. I am personally looking forward to building up my own hotrodded Whizzer engine and have both a 2006 and 2008 engine and centrifugal clutch to start with. I am a little concerned that at some point the power output will exceed the capacity of the belt drive system. Have you ever explored different pulleys so that a larger v-section belt could be used? Is it necessary? I would really like to explore a chain drive system of some sort similar to the vintage motorcycles. Not just replacing the current pulley system with huge sprockets, but to come up with a double sprocket system on the bicycle pedal crank on the left side of the bike, running an engine driven chain down to this pedal crank which would then transfer power to the second crank sprocket and run a final drive chain back to the rear wheel. It would really be cool if the pedal crank double sprockets could be clutched. Maybe I am dreaming. Here is an original diagram that Crazyhorse came up with.
DRIVE SYSTEM by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
DRIVE SYSTEM by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
Hi Sportscarpet,
The belt drive works 100% if setup correctly. The new HDs use belt drive with great success.
The secret is in the clutch and belt tension. I have one bike that will lift the front wheel and zero belt slippage.
The original automatic clutch from Whizzer MUST be upgraded or it will self destruct
[$110.00 plus shipping]! Many have tried to modify the clutch, but be advised, most ruin the clutch in the process. I use a specially modified bearing sleeve that is Rockwell rated at 58. Some of the early automatic clutches will also need the pins replaced that support the shoes [when the pins come out at speed, the clutch will become a paper weight]. If the drive hub is cast iron it may need the pins replaced, the aluminum drive sides don't need the pins replaced, just the output side upgraded.
Hope this information is helpful.
Happy New Year,
The belt drive works 100% if setup correctly. The new HDs use belt drive with great success.
The secret is in the clutch and belt tension. I have one bike that will lift the front wheel and zero belt slippage.
The original automatic clutch from Whizzer MUST be upgraded or it will self destruct
[$110.00 plus shipping]! Many have tried to modify the clutch, but be advised, most ruin the clutch in the process. I use a specially modified bearing sleeve that is Rockwell rated at 58. Some of the early automatic clutches will also need the pins replaced that support the shoes [when the pins come out at speed, the clutch will become a paper weight]. If the drive hub is cast iron it may need the pins replaced, the aluminum drive sides don't need the pins replaced, just the output side upgraded.
Hope this information is helpful.
Happy New Year,
I'm not a Harley expert by any means, but my understanding is that they use cogged belts and sheeves not V belts. Rich (my brother who you just did some work for) and I have both upgraded our clutches per your instructions already except for the hardened sleeve. We will do the sleeves soon. Sounds like the V-belt is sufficient for this application. I am curious and will take a look at the belt per hp requirement in my trusty Dodge Drives book.
Here's Quenton's wheelie bike. The first picture is the bike & the second is Quenton doing a wheelie. Notice his feet are off the ground. The bike flipped over on him just after I took the picture but my camera wasn't fast enough to get the pic of the bike on top of him before he jumped up Hey, where's his helmet??
Hey, where's his helmet??
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Quenton,
Thanks for the speed tips...
I assembled my 2006 NE5 motor today after doing the following mods:
Today, the motor was completely reassembled and it's ready to install in the bike. It looks like a brand new motor! Hopefully, the mods will put this motor into the 50mph club. Motor should be back into the bike tomorrow, but with rain on the horizon, my first ride will probably be next weekend.
Rich
Thanks for the speed tips...
I assembled my 2006 NE5 motor today after doing the following mods:
- Stock head: Quenton special, decked with cleaned up combustion chamber.
- Exhaust port: removed the 'ridge' at the port roof, then reworked/blended the port. Raw porting done with dremel, then finished worked with jewlers files to blend and smooth the transitions, emphasis at the roof of the port, but the entire port was worked.
- Intake port: I removed the aluminum sleeve from the port, then spent considerable time to blend the port at the valve pocket. Lots of time with the small files until the port transitons were seamless. A final polish of the intake port with 320 grit wet paper and my work was done. When done, the sleaveless port measured just a hair over 21 mm.
- Timing: Advanced the ignition timing by relocating the trigger plate, aligning edge of plate to middle of original hole.
- Cam/lifters: A new stock NE5 cam and mushroom lifter set. Lifters sent to Quenton to be reworked. They were lightened and the mushroom head was back cut for clearance.
- Valves: Stock valves re-used. Valves were hand lapped and leak checked with alcohol and confirmed to seal with zero leaks.
- Exhaust manifold: Only a trivial smoothing of the interior angle with a dremel.
- Carb: A new stock 22mm carb.
- Clutch: New shoes from Quenton, pins replaced with 1/4 28 shoulder bolts.
- Piston/rings: Left stock, motor has approx 450 miles on it. Cylinder finish looked fine.
Today, the motor was completely reassembled and it's ready to install in the bike. It looks like a brand new motor! Hopefully, the mods will put this motor into the 50mph club. Motor should be back into the bike tomorrow, but with rain on the horizon, my first ride will probably be next weekend.
Rich
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Show and tell time!
Well I also have many upgrades and mods on my Whizzer engine.
I have a highly modified very special head thanks to Quenton.
High lift camshaft.
Lightened mushroom lifters.
Ports on the cylinder were dressed up.
Timing advanced to 23 degrees BTDC.
Tapered aluminum carb spacer trimmed to 1/2 inch thick for the 22mm carb. Also have a 26mm carb and a Tecumseh carb to try in the spring.
70mm and 90 mm auto clutch. I use the 70mm because I'm a big guy and the bike still does better than 45mph even with me on it.
Stock original piston and rings.
Here are before and after pictures.
I'm sure there is more but I forget now. lol Jay can tell you how quick it is.
I also now have Worksman drum brake wheels and they are the best wheels I have ever used on anything!
Jim
Well I also have many upgrades and mods on my Whizzer engine.
I have a highly modified very special head thanks to Quenton.
High lift camshaft.
Lightened mushroom lifters.
Ports on the cylinder were dressed up.
Timing advanced to 23 degrees BTDC.
Tapered aluminum carb spacer trimmed to 1/2 inch thick for the 22mm carb. Also have a 26mm carb and a Tecumseh carb to try in the spring.
70mm and 90 mm auto clutch. I use the 70mm because I'm a big guy and the bike still does better than 45mph even with me on it.
Stock original piston and rings.
Here are before and after pictures.
I'm sure there is more but I forget now. lol Jay can tell you how quick it is.
I also now have Worksman drum brake wheels and they are the best wheels I have ever used on anything!
Jim
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Cool bike where'd. You get the whizzer motor from and that's got a monark fork on it rite? But anyways this I my first post I think. I realy want to find one of the earlyer whizzers to restore/use parts from
I bought the donor bike off eBay and yes it's a repop Monarch modified by Pat.Cool bike where'd. You get the whizzer motor from and that's got a monark fork on it rite? But anyways this I my first post I think. I realy want to find one of the earlyer whizzers to restore/use parts from
Nice. Whizzers are probably the first motorised bicycle kit that a person could buy. I personaly wonder whre a person can find replacement belts
Belts are easy to locate. Original Whizzer front belt was an AX26 and can be orderd from NAPA, and I am sure most auto parts stores, as it is made by Gates.
The rear belt varied greatly, but most were AX62. Next most common size was AX63, then AX61.
Have fun,
The rear belt varied greatly, but most were AX62. Next most common size was AX63, then AX61.
Have fun,
Hi Ruby478,
I have a couple I could assemble, however I only have modified cylinders & heads [Highly ported, milled, etc].
Are you planning on wiring harness, lights, battery, etc, or just basic build.
Have fun,
I have a couple I could assemble, however I only have modified cylinders & heads [Highly ported, milled, etc].
Are you planning on wiring harness, lights, battery, etc, or just basic build.
Have fun,