Whizzer lights and regulator

N

Nutcracker

New Member
After more than a thousand miles ( the most recent 300 being brutal, rough and steep mountain dirt roads) my 13 year old 1998 Whizzer has a small challenge that may actually entail buying a part, but I'm not quite sure.
A couple days ago my Whizzer failed to illuminate the headlight and tail light, even with the engine running. I charged the battery and started testing:
The front brake switch has been non-functional for a year, the rear brake switch works, or at least the bulb lights up when I pull on the switch plunger.
I have unwrapped the harness and tested for power at various places. I tested for continuity at the ignition and headlight switches, they both appear to function normally. I have power at the horn and it beeps. I have power up to the regulator but nothing coming out. I did pick up 1 volt at the blue wire going to the HI/LO switch. I inspected and tested the headlight lamp, both filaments light up. I replaced the tail light lamp with a new 1157 lamp, the old one had a burned tail light filament but still worked on the brake filament. All of my power tests were with battery power only---not running the engine. So, I have a few issues:
1) The bike has never charged the battery, that isn't a critical issue yet, I charge the battery with a small charger. (the former owner bypassed the battery--- connecting the red and black battery cables and frying the AC/DC relay, I think)
2) I removed the turn signals and wrapped the connectors a long time ago.
3) The inline fuse and holder were gone when I got the bike and I forgot all about it until I unwrapped the harness. The two leads are connected directly together, bad deal I think...
4) The lights have always worked perfectly until two days ago and always burned brightly while the engine ran and good but not as bright with the engine off.
5) Besides the obvious items like the fuse, front brake switch and non-charging, I think I have a failed regulator ( Part number 9170 on the Whizzer parts list).
I appreciate any help from any experienced Whizzer owner on some questions:

Is there anything I'm missing diagnostic-wise?
Can I get a generic replacement regulator?
Can I make it keep the battery charged?
Could switching to Geico really save me 15% or more on car insurance?
Could brushing with Crest give me whiter teeth in just three weeks?
and what about Naomi?
 
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zptim no whizzer expert,but saw your post and think it very well could be the regulator,however with the previous owner rigging up the elc. system,, never a good idea in my opinion. anyway,with that being done, i would sugest getting a wiring dia.and rewiring the entire bike with new wire,parts, etc.
 
NC

Having been working as an electronic technician I would like to see what sheema scratch as I've heard them called (schematic) is for the system. Also if there is no proprietary info on the parts internal workings like the regulator that too.

There is this I can say is that when I had someone take the fuse out of the holder on a motorcycle while at work, I scrounged around and found a pop top tab lying on the ground (giving away my age). I bent it and used it in place of the fuse just to get home.

I bet if it was a prank that maybe is what happened, otherwise the motorcycle exhaust system leaks made it loud and neighbors next to the building had done it. Well no harm done, but if there was a short while running it without a real fuse then what?

Actually there is something that takes care of that as a safeguard in some electrical systems as in automobiles. That is the fuse link. It is put in the wiring at various places and looks just like a lump (heat shrinked area) in the wiring. It is a onetime fuse and is made to be not easily replaceable. You know, you have to cut it out and put in another. If the fuse keeps blowing and you keep replacing it and powering the system on in a short period of time a fuse link may blow. I could guess that this might be what happened.

The idea of a fuse link is to be another safeguard to an electrical system to go beyond the user replaceable fuse. Having the wiring diagram it would show this if it were installed at one or more places in the wiring. Maybe of help I hope, but I am trying to get information on whizzer sheave to use from a dealer for a bike and if I can find that they have the wiring diagram I'll find out if they will sell or otherwise help with this issue aside from the old standby bring it in:)

Measure Twice
 
The new edition Whizzers use an AC/DC relay, which switches the AC to DC to run the lights from the lighting coils when the motor is started. The battery isn't needed to run the motor or lights, but is needed to buffer the charging system so the horn and optional turn signals will work correctly. Many of the parts are from a GY6 scooter.


If the head light or tail light burn out, then too much current is placed on the surviving bulb. In other words is is common to first loose the tail light bulb [from shock & vibration] and then the head light bulb. Check both bulbs!
I don know if Whizzer USA has any belt sheeves in stock, but they are very expensive because of the special brackets used to attach to the spokes [9 brackets and 18 screws]. The new edition sheeve brackets ONLY fit wheels laced identical to the new edition wheels. The vintage wheels are laced differently and the new edition sheeves & brackets will not fit correctly. The new edition brackets are also for a certain size spoke [.105"] and will not work with stock spokes or .120" spokes used on Worksman wheels. The brackets have cut-outs that fit the new edition .105" spokes, and will cut larger spokes and not grip on saller spokes. USE a vintage WHizzer sheeve and hardware [botls, washers, & nuts].

I would tell you the cost and were to purchase them , however the moderators would punish me for doing so [shameless self promotion].

Email me at [email protected] or send a private message and I will gladly supply you with the needed purchase information.

Have fun,
 
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Thanks for the info as far as you’re comfortable. I can call locally in my area and find out and go there with the wheel and see about the clamping parts. That’s what I did when I had not known about the Link-Belt at first.

I went to Oriely's Auto Parts and they let me in the back with my part assemble frame and jackshaft and pulleys and I tried about 4 belts before deciding.

Now that will be a backup belt as Link-Belt I find amazing, and I am not selling them or have connection with them, but they make things easier.

I have heard that some homemade clamps utilize the clamp parts filed down from lawn mower cable cover clamps that are use by the carburetor. I know I measured 0.080 inch on some 26 inch rim I have, but even if it would fit, I would have to find another rim.

I just noticed that this extra rim has quick release and even though the thread on the outside of the axle with the hollowed out for the solid threaded quick release is the same dimensioned as a non-quick-release, it looks too weak to hold the extra weight of a motor and accessories.

I will see if I have other that are solid axle and check spoke diameter.

Measure Twice
 
Hi Measure Twice,

Consider using a vintage Whizzzer rear sheeve. The vintage version will fit all spoke sizes and most lace patterns. The vintage sheeves use a simple bolt, washer, and nut for each spoke, whereas the new edition version requires the expensive spacers. The vintage version has a hole near each spoke in the sheeve and a slight raised area near each hole. A thick flat washer compresses the spoke against the sheeve on one side and is held level by the raised area. The new edition holes aren't near the spokes, but rather centered to hold the brackets in place.

I have purchased many of the vintage sheeves made from Stainless Steel, and paid about $85.00 each for them last year at the Show in Portland, IN. These are quality units and are much better than the current new edition version.

Also consider that some frames might need to be "crimped" for belt clearance.

Have fun,
 
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