Where to find lead sheets cheap

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Seems so opposite of logical. Vibration can not be isolated, just absorbed. With out damage at the least. When I first got in to this I did the nobie thing and wrapped the seat and down tube with old inner tubes. It just allows for more vibration like the beautiful Riddly mounts.
 
Here's two more.

I used the PC-7 to "glue" the sheet in place, and also because the angle between the two tubes was larger than the mount. I filled the void with the PC-7 instead of causing a pressure point- mostly at the front mount. (something I am convinced also causes a lot of vibrations in these bikes...frame angle/mount discrepancies)

You can't see the lead between the "c" mount and the frame, because it's not there. I removed the clamps after the PC-7 set, and installed the lead sheets before replacing them.

Photo no. 2 is the front mount.
 

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Seems so opposite of logical. Vibration can not be isolated, just absorbed. With out damage at the least. When I first got in to this I did the nobie thing and wrapped the seat and down tube with old inner tubes. It just allows for more vibration like the beautiful Riddly mounts.

Dan,

Here is a link to a book that will teach you all about vibration isolation.

Vibration Isolation

I guess I misunderstood, I thought the lead was being used to isolate the vibration. From the photos it looks like the lead was used to create a better fit to the frame. It's a great solution to take up the radius difference between the engine and the frame...provided that the radius in the engine is larger.

Jim
 
Hey Joe what is pc-7? Is it like JB Weld?

I was gonna half wrap the tube with some steel strap and use E-6000 to fill the void between the half wrap and the engine mount. E-6000 is an industrial RTV adhesive. Very strong. The result is a fitted mount similar to auto/truck suspension bushings.

A metal/epoxy to fill the void might be better, though.

This will take some ponderin'. Once the E-6000 goes on it will be extremely hard to remove. At least the rear mount can be replaced. Anybody know a source for replacement rear mounts?

For the rear I spent an hour or so with a (same size as seat tube) tube wrapped in wet or dry to fit the rear mount to the seat tube. If I move this engine to another bike (knowing Murphy) it won't fit the seat tube on it's new home. :(

Ted
 
PC-7 is like JB Weld, but thicker. Not a putty though.

Jim- you could be right, maybe it's the perfect union between the tubes and the mounts that does it. Whatever it is, I'll keep doing it.
 
I don't have anything to fill the void. I just have the lead sheet. So far there haven't been any problems with excessive vibration. If there is a pressure point I'll know soon enough as my lead sheet will probably split in two.
 
HT2005,

Joe shows, (photos), a nicely executed use of the lead sheet material.

I don't mean to be insulting, (so please don't take it that way), but it appears to me that you quickly cobbled yours together. In other words the fix that Joe created has not been executed properly on your bike!

The lead wll not split in two, but you're not getting the full benefit of the fix due to the way it is installed.

Jim
 
I'll need to try to fix that by making the weight distribution more even. The problems that I face are that: (1) I don't own any tools in my house. They are property of my brother or dad. (2) I can't find what I'm looking for. This includes tools, pastes, other materials because it is unheard of or because my VW tech brother really doesn't know how or what materials are needed to perform a certain task on these bikes. Everything is also disorganized and scattered. (3) I don't have a driver license or a car (I'm only 16) so I can't readily pick things up at the hardware store.
Everything for me is very difficult to do. For the most part I need to figure stuff out on my own. My brother just critiscizes stuff I want to do and thinks I should leave these mounts alone as he believes they are fine and if I mess with it something will go wrong. I'm never given good advice except on the forum. It's just tough getting stuff done with what I have available.
 
You are doing well then my friend. Live, learn, do.

You will get any and all advice you need here on the forum.
 
I just found out that Do-It-Best Hardware has PC-7. I looked it up on their website; It appears to be exactly what I'm looking for. Maybe I can get some from the store 3 miles away. Just by coincidence my brother has a friend who works there. My brother rode my bike and he wants to put lead on his now. He reassembled his engine yesterday. If he is getting back into the whole motobicycling rapair mood, I can convince him to buy lead for his bike and get some PC-7 for both of ours. My rant before might have gone a little overboard, but now I realize how things have been slowly improving.
 
I just found out that Do-It-Best Hardware has PC-7. I looked it up on their website; It appears to be exactly what I'm looking for. Maybe I can get some from the store 3 miles away. Just by coincidence my brother has a friend who works there. My brother rode my bike and he wants to put lead on his now. He reassembled his engine yesterday. If he is getting back into the whole motobicycling rapair mood, I can convince him to buy lead for his bike and get some PC-7 for both of ours. My rant before might have gone a little overboard, but now I realize how things have been slowly improving.

Sounds like your doin' great HT. Can get frustrating. When I can't find/get a tool or a part when I want it, I go nutz!
 
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"New from JoeCo, Vibration dampening Lead lined large frame adapters"

That was funnier in my head. Would be a great product though.
 
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