What's the best drive roller?

I'm thinking that you need the sand mixed in WITH the weld to make it work. I think the sand it what stops the weld from grinding down. On one of the spindles I did, I mixed 2 bathes of weld. One where I mixed the sand and weld so thick it looked dry and went on hard, the other where I mixed in not as much sand. I slathered on the stuff thick first and thinner second, none of it even. The thin stuff wore down noticeable and the thicker stuff not so much. The thick mix looked dry like playdoh, the thin stuff like.... I dunno a gel of some kind.

I had to trowel the thick stuff on- mash it on to get it to stay. The thick stuff wears better than the thin. The spindle i've got on there now- the 1.5 peg I mixed one very thick amount of weld and it hasn't worn down hardly at all. I used playground sand- it would have been better if I had strained out some of the larger pebbles and stuff, or went with some straight up white beach sand. I think the finer the better. I think the salt isn't hard enough to contend with the wear and tear- it gives you the texture you'r looking for but I dont' think the weld is actually what is giving you the oomph- it's the trapped sand.

I"ve got 30 something almost 40 miles on this peg so far and it's working very well with hardly any wear. I'll get a pic of what it looks like.

off to work and the land of dayquill and boredom, wishing I was riding.
 
thats the kind of detail we need shoes. You might have told me enough to really do some good with the mixing lol. I never tried it with that much stuff. I think I'll see if I can get some aquarium sand that should be fine enough and in a small enough batch.
 
Okay I tried the Jb weld and sand yet again. it wore off smooth in a very short time. I'm not sure how short a time but it was smooth when I got home from a five mile ride.

I tried it on a different chainsaw bike and put it on differently. I globbed it last time. This time I put it on in a thin coat. I'm going to let it cure longer this time. Who knows what I'm doing wrong.

On the big chainsaw bike I put on a the sand paper again. This time I put on half the roller and let it set then put on the other half. It is being held in place with inner tube strips while it cures

I'll test it tomorrow.

Anybody got about a foot of fiberglass screen wire they aren't going to use. I would like to try embedding that in JB weld and then with gorilla glue as well.
 
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WTF? I don't get it. When I put that stuff on my roller it really won't come off. It wears to a point and then doesn't wear anymore. I put it on about 1/8th inch thick. I mix the weld and sand so that it's thick like playdoh- it goes on stiff and it hard to get it on. I don't get it. So very weird.
 
Not to interrupt or go off topic. I have been toying with the idea of trying an hourglass shaped drive roller. They can be bought in rubber, but as an experiment, I will have one made out of wood on a lathe. My thinking is that it will wear the corners of the tire and not the top that is already being worn down by the road. Or a circular cut away. Have it semi self adjusting/floating in a key way.

The first pic on left panel is what I am thinking. Manville Rubber Products - Rubber covered rollers, Rubber covered wheels, Rubber rollers, rubber covered rolls
Just wondering if any one has any thoughts on this.
 
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not off topic at all. I read a thread somewhere where someone used the neoprene rollers from a boat trailer said it worked wonderful.

I think that if you took your wooden roller and covered it in JB weld and sand or sandpaper it would kick butt.

With a lathe you could turn it so it exactly matches the curve of your tires so it would rub perfectly evenly. I like the idea a lot.

I do wonder how the wood will wear, I think you'll need to cover it with something.

The drive wheel on the FreeSpirit bike my Dad has in his garage is slightly concave and is covered with some type of rubber. It makes excellent contact with the tire.
 
"neoprene rollers from a boat trailer said it worked wonderful."!!!!! I have 8 in the dang yard! A lil big but can be easily lathed to fit (if I even bother for an experiment), free and about 20 yards away. LOL. Must be millions in dumps and boat repair shops. Some sort of tuffer band in the middle that is replaceable?

I am thinking they will wear around the tire and make themselves a perfect fit, at least for a wile.

Now how to drive, the drive, snork....

Thanks Comfortableshoes!
 
thinking "out loud here" could you run a thick bolt through it, with some wide fender washers to hold it in place and compress it a bit with a nut on one end? Then drill a hole in one end and tap that to whatever thread you have on your drive shaft....

I'm trying to remember what the rollers on the boat trailer looked like- it's been awhile since I've been out boating... Dont they have bearings in them...

If you do this, I'd love to see pictures. There are a couple of boating supply places around here that I could visit if this works well. Keep us updated.
 
Even if you have to weld the nut on the end it still might work better than what we are doing now.
 
LOL, this sort of stuff keeps me up nights. boat roller The "V" is not as sharp as I was thinking, but hey... Never know

Great thunking Comfortibleshoes.

Fits my DIY goals. Already mass produced (Read inexpensive) Field and easily replaceable and above all else, works.

Next, separate the cones and make a sort of variable transmission with spring/centrifugal force, well some day.
 
there are a few parts of the system I would like to work out just for the satisfaction.

I think I have the engine and controls pretty well set up for a motor assisted bike, but the truly great drive wheel eludes me.
 
I'm very happy with the jbweld and sand covered drive wheel but I think that where it is lacking is with the amount it contacts with the tire. more contact means less skipping and more power and more speed.

deacon didn't you have a wood drive wheel at one point? How did that wear? I assume that the road grime wore it to nothing pretty quick, but what if it had been covered in the sand paper or weld and sand...
 
The drive was not the problem it kept splitting in half from the torque I suppose. I think if I could have gotten some oak it might have worked. Oh it ran just fine for the mile or so that it ran.

If you could covert it so that you ran a bolt through the wood and had a nut on the end of the shaft it might have done better. You know what engine it would work on is a leaf blower engine. The one of those that I had used a long shaft with a nut on the end. That you could put a wooden shaft or a couple of plastic wheels on with a few lock washers. If I ever see one of those from ryobi I might just have to pick it up.
 
I finally got the j b weld and sand to stay on. I have two theories as to why it wouldn't before. You can take your pick.

1. This time I put the stuff on in three coats with very fine sand. I let the first coat cure over 24hours. The second and third coats cured over night. I rode the bike 2 miles today and it worked well and showed very little wear. If it didn't look so much like rain I would give it another test ride.
2. This theory is a little out there but it is possible. It seems that my clutch drop rod had some flex in it. To compensate I had put it under tension from the brake lever on the handle bars. This took some of the tension off the wheel. With the tension of the drive wheel actually skipped. The skipping might have caused more wear on the Jb weld. I can't swear to it though. Also the flex in the drop rod might well have caused it to skip when it hit a bump.

Anyway it ran like a dream today.
 
I have the sole off a slip resistant over shoe, from work, only the left shoe... I'm going to try that some day. I'm pretty sure that the nubs will wear off fast, might be better to use it as a motor mount. LOL.
 
Has anyone tried Tack welding a bunch of beads or spots on a pipe friction drive or steel pegs. Im going to be setting my bike up in the next week and i think im going to give it a try. Im a welder so its not difficult to experiment but if you don't have a welder then i think it could be out of a budget price range. I'll try some beads going across the drive and a another with tacks around the area being connected to the tire. I'll feel you guys in on the status.

Do you guys use tubes in your with sealing fluid in them or just regular. At wal-mart I saw a tube which is actually a solid round piece of rubber so no flats. probably heavier but would it be more benefical for friction drive.?
 
Since I dont weld, I never tried the addition to the roller. Someone did try it long ago but I don't remember the outcome.

I have only had one flat attributable to the drive. I ran a tire till it wore clarn through. I had a second flat on the replacement tire before I got going. The tire itself had a round hold like a paper punch had been used on it. I have no idea how that happened.

I use the tubes from the tires of bikes that I have junked out. I have couple of new tubes sitting on my work bench they are just ordinary cheapo tubes.
 
Not sure how they are set up, but if you look up Goped Spindles, it looks pretty much like a peg. Some are different then others but how are those spindles attached to the engine because aren't the engines close to the same as WW and Chain saws?
 
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