What improvements to make out of the box

Rnroutlaw

New Member
Nov 15, 2008
54
0
0
Norwalk,Ohio
Hi everyone! I am just hoping for some feedback on what type of improvements I should make on my 80cc ebay kit right out of the box before I fire it up for the first time. I am hoping to make it as fast as possible after the initial break-in period and sound as fine as possible as well. Awaiting it's arrival on monday and hope to have it running by wednesday. Thanks!.......Man I am so EXCITED!!!!
 

misteright1_99

New Member
Mar 21, 2008
716
0
0
Treasure Coast, Florida
When I got mine, before I mounted it I replaced ALL the hardware, mounts, intake, exhaust, and all the cover bolts with high quality allen head bolts. Also made and replaced the intake and exhaust gaskets with gasket material from advanced auto, as well as put an oring in the carb for sealing purposes. Bought a new plug, wire and cap, also from an auto parts store. Less than 20 miles later replaced the chain and installed a spring return tensioner. Maybe overkill, but I have never been left stranded in over 1000 miles.......
 

ibcnya

New Member
Oct 29, 2008
220
0
0
Concord NC
Tensionor pulley is garbage, the threads on it are weak. Dax makes a good one with bearings installed into it. The bolts for the tensionor bracket are junk to. The kill switch is said to go bad quickly. The clutch handle is said to break easily. Aparently the kit supplied plug is trash, the wire can use improvement to. I replaced mine with a leftover MSD coil wire i had laying around.

My clutch handled survived a pretty hard hit last week and didnt bust it, so it could be a random thing. My tensioinor hardware was definate crap out of the box. The ends on the CDI plugs are trash too, replace those with some better ones.
 

Technocyclist

Motorized Bicycle Senior Technologist
Jul 7, 2008
463
0
0
Asia
don't get too excited too much...take your time...and enjoy the build...get familiar with all the parts first. Study on all the possible break points that would be crucial to your build...If your tensioner is not yet the one with the bearing then you can make the center hole bigger to fit a bearing...I used a small grinder with a power drill and installed 2 bearings, and replaced the bolts that hold it. It was pretty messy... Have all the tools and loctite ready. Take your time aligning the rear sprocket on the rear wheel to avoid any wobbling. I found this to be the most tedious and time consuming task.

Get a fuel filter, and a good fuel line, and clean out the fuel tank before installation

Hope the best to your build and that everything turns out ok. :)
 

Rnroutlaw

New Member
Nov 15, 2008
54
0
0
Norwalk,Ohio
Many Thanks to all of you who responded! I really appreciate the help. I am going to use as much of this advice as I can. Seems like alot more work than just throwing the kit on. This feedback is exactly what I was hoping for to be able to improve on the stock kit itself before installation. Thanks again!
 

Motormac

New Member
Sep 23, 2008
108
1
0
Ontario Canada
Do not use the supplied killswitch, just cut the wire at the switch,you can leave the red button there or remove it will not matter. Now wire up the motor black to CDI black.Use an regular ON/OFF switch from auto store or Radio Shack and mount it onto a small plastic box the same size or a bit larger than your CDI, I used a small tupperware container that I found in the kitchen. Wire the blue wire from the CDI to one side of switch and wire the motor blue wire to the other side of switch,Now drill a hole into the top of the plastic container and put your spark plug wire thru it and twist it back into the CDI. Put a thin layer of silicon around the upper edge of the CDI and also some around the sparkplug hole and mount the box on top of the CDI. you can now wrap electrical tape around the box and CDI to hold the two together or do what I did was to cut a 2 inch section of bike inner tube and stretch over the 2 sections. This will be completly waterproof and the switch is located in an easy to reach spot. I have well over a 1000 miles on my engine and never had any CDI or magneto problems.
 

Andyinchville1

Manufacturer/Dealer
Dec 26, 2007
502
1
18
Scottsville, VA
For max speed you will need a smaller rear sprocket....A 34T is our best seller but depending on your terrain, altitude, weight desired cruise speeds, some have gone as small as 27T with good results....(chaing the sprocket before you put her al together saves the time and hassle later)

Hope this helps you.

Andrew

PS - A Power Pipe would be a good addition to steeper gearing too! ;-)
 

Motormac

New Member
Sep 23, 2008
108
1
0
Ontario Canada
Andrew, would a 34 tooth have a harder time going up hills than a 44 tooth? Its mostly flat where I am but there is the occasional hill and the 44 tooth just starts to bog down and slow down a lot on the steeper ones. Speed is not a concern to me but I would like the engine(2 stroke frame mount) to cruise at a comfortable 25 mph and stay in the power band. Do you recommend I stay with my 44 tooth or change to different? thanks, Mac
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,843
237
63
up north now
If your bike bogs with the 44T, it will bog more with a 34T. However, it will cruise with a much lower engine speed on the flat. You may have to pedal assist.

How about a 40T?
 
Andrew, would a 34 tooth have a harder time going up hills than a 44 tooth? Its mostly flat where I am but there is the occasional hill and the 44 tooth just starts to bog down and slow down a lot on the steeper ones. Speed is not a concern to me but I would like the engine(2 stroke frame mount) to cruise at a comfortable 25 mph and stay in the power band. Do you recommend I stay with my 44 tooth or change to different? thanks, Mac
your engine will get way stronger as it breaks in
they are feeble at best out of the box but after 100 miles are great

Ive shaved the head on mine so the bottom of the head is flat with no protrusion & run without a headgasket too with no problems, although I have other mods to support it

Ive had no problem with the kill switch but I think all I have from the kit left is the gas tank & the engine & the bracket for the chain roller
Ive even made my own intake & exhaust
I cut down a skateboard wheel & put a spacer between the bearings so I could tighten a bolt down & hold it to the stock bracket

when I wear this one out I have another on the shelf
before I install it I will tear it down & port & match all transfer ports as well as the intake & exhaust
replace the main bearings with SKF or NSK raise the compression way up.drill two 3/8 inch holes one on either side of crank pin
as rich as the stock carb is jettted it will run about rite

anyway :)

take your time
you will have trouble at first & then it will get better as you go allong
take care
JAK
 

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ibcnya

New Member
Oct 29, 2008
220
0
0
Concord NC
What ever holds the clutch lever in should be taken out and put back in with Loctite. Im assuming its a screw but dont know since i never messed with mine until today when it came out and got ground up in my chain sprocket.:eek: Could someone confirm this, like I said i havent seen it since mine was destroyed.

If anyone has a extra sproket cover and retaining screw they want to get rid of plzz pm me. Im iffy on riding the bike because the clutch lever keeps coming out now. Thanx
 

DAVID02895

New Member
Nov 14, 2008
23
0
0
Rhode Island
For max speed you will need a smaller rear sprocket....A 34T is our best seller but depending on your terrain, altitude, weight desired cruise speeds, some have gone as small as 27T with good results....(chaing the sprocket before you put her al together saves the time and hassle later)

Hope this helps you.

Andrew

PS - A Power Pipe would be a good addition to steeper gearing too! ;-)
What would be a good size for an occ stingray with 20" wheels? I am looking to get one from you,but am not sure of size.This is not something I am going to be driving on the street.(I am removing the pedals) I ordered a Yong Xing 80cc motor with centrifugal clutch and pull start.
 

Andyinchville1

Manufacturer/Dealer
Dec 26, 2007
502
1
18
Scottsville, VA
Hi David02895,

Most everybody that has a 20" rear wheel seems to go with our smallest 9 hole mount sprocket.... the 27T sprocket (we can go smaller BUT to do so would require use of a disc brake hub for direct mounting because to go much smaller on a 9 hole mount may require grinding of the bolt heads since the chain may start riding the bolt heads).

Word of warning tho.....I am not familiar with the engine you plan on using....some centrifugal clutch engines state the minimum recommended sprocket size to prevent burning up the clutch on takeoff from a dead start....this potential problem may be compounded by the fact that you plan on removing the pedals so you won't be able to assist the bike on take off from a dead start....

The sprocket size above works well with a HT engine on a 20" wheel because it approximates the same gearing as a 35T sprocket on a 26" wheel (our 34T sprocket is our best seller for a 26" wheel with a HT engine).

If you have your engine already does it say anything about minimum recommended sprocket sizes?...Is the engine you are getting basically a HT engine with the centrifugal clutch and pull start?

Hope this helps you....more information could be helpful...

Thanks!

Andrew
 

DAVID02895

New Member
Nov 14, 2008
23
0
0
Rhode Island
I should have the engine in about a week.It is a HT with a centrifugal clutch.I am using a disc brake on the freewheel side and sprocket on the other side.I wanted to put the sprocket on the same time I installed the engine.
 

Prasinos

New Member
Dec 1, 2008
257
0
0
CT
Whats wrong with the supplied killswitch? If its just reliability I'd rather use it till it stops working.