What Do You Do To Keep Your Seat From Moving

M

msrfan

Well-Known Member
One of the most annoying things I've encountered over the years is twisting and turning seats. Years ago I started welding the seat clamps together where I wanted the seat to stay. Lately I've just been making heavy duty clamps with an extra hole to stabilize my seats.





This one is made from a piece of thick wall 1 1/4'' box tubing. A hole for the seat post, one for the pinch bolt and an extra one to keep it from swiveling.




Very stable. Most bike frame seat tubes are about 20 degrees off of level perpendicular.



Please tell us how you address this problem. as I'm always looking for better ideas.
 
I find using one of these solves all those issues.



But your way opens up some seat choices and is cheaper.
This style post requires a twin rail seatpan
 
Good ideas, keep 'em coming. You can never have enough input from other members. It's one way to solve almost any motorbicycle problem.
 
When I have a frustrating problem like seats moving or handlebars, it almost always comes down to a cheap part or a part not being correct for the application. A good quality part correctly matched to the application will almost always do it's job correctly. But lets face face it, there is a lot of junk out there, and cheap parts on a bike can be downright dangerous. Buy quality matched components and the problem goes away. If ANYTHING requires a shim then the parts don't match.
 
exactly, pat. i use brooks saddles on most of my bikes and they never move.

i also have a box of old seat parts, so if i use a cheap cruiser seat on something, i find an older clamp. the newer one's don't hold.
 
Yeah, I bought some of those cool repop vintage style handlebars with the cross brace. 7/8" tube bars with no center knurl or swedge area up to 1". Guy supplies this cheap aluminum shim with the bars. Those bars will not hold for anything. He said it was because I put them on a motorbike. Well, it was a pedal bike at the time. I tried steel motorcycle handlebar shims, too. They STILL moved. Seller said it was my stem so I tried a couple different stems. Still moved. I bought a properly manufactured set of good old Wald cruiser bars for $18 with center knurl and 1" swedge. Those bars didn't budge! Proper design, proper matching components, problem solved! Buyer beware.
 
Still, the heavier the rider, the more even properly matched components tend to want to shift. I use shims when I want something to pivot. Knurls really help.
Yeah, bars need to fit real well, especially when pedal starting.
 
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