its side to side, it must be too much cuz the chain comes off at a certain point...should there be any play in the chain?? Mine is a little loose on the upper chain.
Last edited:
What Are These Parts and What Are they Used For (w/ Pics)
- Thread starter Jizzle
- Start date
its side to side, it must be too much cuz the chain comes off at a certain point...should there be any play in the chain?? Mine is a little loose on the upper chain.
nightcruiser
New Member
should be about 1/2 of play in the chain. Any significant wobble will give you problems, specially with the kit chain. Just take your time with the sprocket, observe the space between the hub and sprocket and make it even all around, spin the wheel and watch the sprocket, note the wobble and adjust accordingly. I know the rag joint sprocket setup sucks, I struggled with it to, once you get it smoothed out you will forget all about it... lol
leadfarmer
New Member
Hang in there, you'll get it.
wayne z
Active Member
ok man i figgured out it takes some force to engage the clutch so il have to adjust the cable and spring to get it to work.... Im haveing a problem now with my chain comeing offi know its becuase my sprocket was wobbly when i put it on... not sure how im gonna get it straight since every bolt I measured and they are tightend to the same depth.
Common procedure to eliminate the most wobble, is to try tightening the bolts more where the sprocket space is farther, and loostening them some where the sprocket is closer to the spokes. .
Well i gave up for the night, i took the wheel off and i first got the sprocket centerd on the hub, then tightend bolts acrose for each other in a cross pattern and i did this as evenly as i could. Still there was some wobble so i spent 30 mins ro a hour spinning the wheel holding my finger in a spot and were i seen the sprocket hit my finger or wobble out i tried tightening those bolts and it didnt seem to work out for me.
Not saying i did everything i know im doing somthing wrong. I had to put it up for the night and il get back at it tommarow. gonna buy a socket for my electric drill to make it some what easier.
Not saying i did everything i know im doing somthing wrong. I had to put it up for the night and il get back at it tommarow. gonna buy a socket for my electric drill to make it some what easier.
Your sprocket might be warped. Remove it and lay it on a known flat surface. A sheet of glass or anything that you know is absolutely flat. You'll be able to see any warp and with a little work, a plastic headed hammer, a large Crescent wrench, etc, you should be able to get the sprocket to lay flush with the flat surface.
You also might want to make sure your wheel is true. A warped, (out of true) wheel can give you fits. Bent or loose spokes can also contribute to problems with truing the rear sprocket.
While you have the sprocket off, smooth up the teeth. Take any rough edges off. I like to use a 3-M metal finishing pad on a side grinder. In extreme cases rough teeth can cause the chain to jump and grab enough to derail it from the sprocket.
Alignment and tension are essential to a good running chain drive.
Tom
You also might want to make sure your wheel is true. A warped, (out of true) wheel can give you fits. Bent or loose spokes can also contribute to problems with truing the rear sprocket.
While you have the sprocket off, smooth up the teeth. Take any rough edges off. I like to use a 3-M metal finishing pad on a side grinder. In extreme cases rough teeth can cause the chain to jump and grab enough to derail it from the sprocket.
Alignment and tension are essential to a good running chain drive.
Tom
nightcruiser
New Member
And since the wheels and hubs we are using are all different perhaps a picture of what you got going on might help someone spot something that may be helpful to you......
well woke up today and went at it again. I used a ruler and measured from the spoke to the sproket all the way around. If it was off id flip to the oppisite side and tighten a little. It worked good and i got it pretty true. The chain isnt comeing off any more.
So now im about to figure out how im gonna measure this oil and go get a gallon of gas and test her out.
Il post pics of my bike some time maybe today or for sure monday.
The chain is still worrying me it seems to rattle in the engine some doesnt sound smooth. Is this normal?
So now im about to figure out how im gonna measure this oil and go get a gallon of gas and test her out.
Il post pics of my bike some time maybe today or for sure monday.
The chain is still worrying me it seems to rattle in the engine some doesnt sound smooth. Is this normal?
nightcruiser
New Member
Yah, the chain noise is pretty normal....
As for the mix, some 2-stroke oil comes in a container with a bulb on the top to measure the oil, you squeeze up the oil from below into the top to the line that matches your desired mix, then pour into 1 gallon of gas. I found this convenient when I was first starting out....
So the first go didnt work out so well at first it wouldnt start at all then i moved this little lever on the carb to the inside then it would start but run really rough at only 1 mph full throttle then jsut stop pretty much. Its leaking gas from every part of the gas line, bothe filters.
Heres some pics.
Im not sure if the gas line should have that much on it. or should it jsut hang straight down.
Heres some pics.
Im not sure if the gas line should have that much on it. or should it jsut hang straight down.
ok i got it to run good had to put that carb lever in the middle... It vibrates the **** out of me.nightcruiser
New Member
Good for you!
You might need the choke to start and then very soon after have to turn off the choke to keep her running...
You pretty much want to keep heat/spark away from fuel, so you should clean up your fuel line routing a bit, and do whatever you need to do to stop all the fuel leaks, we don't want to burn up here, so be careful!
Your chain looks a bit slack, you probably need to relocate the tensioner a bit since its already at its top position, so you can tension the chain a bit more (unless you find the ride is smooth like this, then leave it alone). I am a fan of running without a tensioner, so if this were my bike I would probably pull a link out of the chain and try to get the tension right without the tensioner by adjusting the motor and rear wheel position. If you want to try and do this the easiest thing for you to do (since you have a nice heavy chain there) is take the cheap kit chain and make it one link shorter than your current chain, then try and setup the bike with the shorter chain. If it works out then shorten the heavy duty chain, if not then go back what you got now. That tensioner roller put too much drag on the bike when pedaling for my liking, and made too much noise, so it had to go.... so I said good riddens.....
You might need the choke to start and then very soon after have to turn off the choke to keep her running...
You pretty much want to keep heat/spark away from fuel, so you should clean up your fuel line routing a bit, and do whatever you need to do to stop all the fuel leaks, we don't want to burn up here, so be careful!
Your chain looks a bit slack, you probably need to relocate the tensioner a bit since its already at its top position, so you can tension the chain a bit more (unless you find the ride is smooth like this, then leave it alone). I am a fan of running without a tensioner, so if this were my bike I would probably pull a link out of the chain and try to get the tension right without the tensioner by adjusting the motor and rear wheel position. If you want to try and do this the easiest thing for you to do (since you have a nice heavy chain there) is take the cheap kit chain and make it one link shorter than your current chain, then try and setup the bike with the shorter chain. If it works out then shorten the heavy duty chain, if not then go back what you got now. That tensioner roller put too much drag on the bike when pedaling for my liking, and made too much noise, so it had to go.... so I said good riddens.....
Last edited:
nightcruiser
New Member
I popped a tire or two also, having the motor does stress the tires and brakes a lot more than normal. I found every time I firmed up the tire I would blow it one way or another, I finally started running with a little less pressure in the tire and haven't popped one since. Without the motor I always kept the pressure up there to reduce resistance, with the motor that doesn't matter as much since you're burning gas instead of burning yourself out...
Your damn right, i was thinking the same thing becuase when i had the bike without the motor i aired the tire up real good, a little too good. It poped when i tryed doing a willie lol.
My rim got bent up i hope it will still work entill spring I dont really wanna buy a new one. Idk i dont think i rode on it long after it poped i did wheel it all the way home. I also was going through feilds at one point lol idk if doing off road stuff is a good idea.