wet clutch experiment

T

talbotti

New Member
i tried to do my clutch to wet one. i drilled and tapped a hole to the clutch cover so i can put clutch oil in there. first i warmed up the engine so its easier to start then adjusted my clutch so tight that it disengages only when lever is pulled alltheway, then assembled my clutch covet and put oil throug the little hole in clutch cover. first i noticed thad my clutch slips like crazy when i tried to start it, the engine must be in certain position to able to start. finaly i got it started. tried some takeoff`s in my garage i got to move but when i go WOT my clutch just slips. havent tested it out outdoors because there is like meter of snow and -10 celcius.
after running the engine 5 mins and testing the clutch my oils was like used engine oil in diesel engine.

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Better dry it out IMO. Without several of the proper type of rings it won't work, again IMO.

Interesting to see someone try though!
 
Yeah, these clutches have a hard enough time finding grip running dry. You might consider a thicker oil, like maybe peanut butter. Don't use the crunchy.
 
well i havent have any problems with the clutch in dry if you just know how to adjust it, and i have more power than stock.
 
This reminds me when I was working on a Hudson and my Dad said "Be sure to add oil to the clutch" I thought he was joking lol.
 
Why would you want oil in the clutch anyway? Was it burning pads or something? Clutch pads have to be designed to run wet, a regular dry one will NOT work in oil.(as you learned)
 
im using what I was told upgraded clutch pads
they are red little blocks , not the rubber truck tire type
I had to hand sand each one to fit, they smelled like rubber when I sanded them
and I could tell they were poured into a mold to make them
 
One benefit might be that the gears would remain in a pool of oil and well lubricated, also dampening noise, and eliminating the worry of getting lubricant (normally grease) on the clutch pads. Perhaps with a different type of clutch pads (something harder and high friction compound) and a lighter oil, it might work. Perhaps cutting slots in the brass clutch surface would improve it. Does the oil tend to come out through the side with the drive gear?
 
How do you like them and where did you obtain them?

SdCruizer said:
im using what I was told upgraded clutch pads
they are red little blocks , not the rubber truck tire type
I had to hand sand each one to fit, they smelled like rubber when I sanded them
and I could tell they were poured into a mold to make them
Click to expand...
 
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http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/390827_10150335372955776_84462890775_8472124_776930482_n.jpg

A car or motorcycle?


Dave31 said:
This reminds me when I was working on a Hudson and my Dad said "Be sure to add oil to the clutch" I thought he was joking lol.
Click to expand...
 
Hi everyone! I know this post is from a while back. I've been interested in doing a wet clutch verses the dry, mainly for lubrication of the gears and noise reduction. Curious to know if anyone has brought this idea any further? Or if there's a supplier selling such a bolt on kit? Any extra info will be appreciated. Glad to hear someone did try something though.
 
I did the wet clutch thing awhile back and experimented with different materials. What worked the best was cork from wine bottles. I ran this set up for quite awhile. It had enough grip to start the engine and never slipped while riding. It was nice to have the gears in oil made them quiter and longer lasting. The thread is on the forum here somewhere. I replaced a clutch on a 37 MG PA eons ago. It had an oil bath clutch with cork pucks. As I remember they were round sections that were simply pushed thru the plate the oil expanded them and locked them in place.
 
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