Welcome To The Welding & Metalworking Forum

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Welding, Fabrication and Paintin' started by Crazy Horse, Jan 23, 2011.

  1. Crazy Horse

    Crazy Horse Dealer

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    I just wanted to share some forum members whom are quite talented when it come to Welding & Fabricating, and Painting.

    The list is going to grow so I'll start with some of my favorites:

    Norm, Venice Motor Bike, Pat, Sportscarpat aka Sportsmanflyer, Graucho, Bairdco, Culvercityclassics, Maxvision, 16v4nrbrgr, GNU, RedB66, Fulltimer, BarelyAwake, Labrat, Goatherder, Maniac57, bigbutterbean, Killercannuck, Roland & Timm aka Bigboy Cycles. Inked1974, and so many others that I'll have to add to this list as I remember them.

    If you have a welding question please ask it here I'm sure one of us will have an answer or suggestion to help.
     
  2. OG-Whizzerdude

    OG-Whizzerdude New Member

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    What type of grinder head is used to cope tubing to its self before welding. Is air drive or electric the best why to go.
     
  3. tooljunkie

    tooljunkie Member

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    wow,crazy horse.
    i can see you put a lot of effort into this thread,hats off to you.
    i can see this getting lots of reads,as helpful as it gets.
    looking forward to following this.
     
  4. Crazy Horse

    Crazy Horse Dealer

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    OG, I'd say to use a belt drive grinder. This would allow for a much cleaner smoother finish. After notching a piece of tubing.

    Or you can use an air drive grinder with tapered grinding heads, air dirive will give you much greater speed control when cleaning a notched tube.

    If this is what you are try to accomplish, either way let us know what you've found to work for you.

    Know if this question is in regards to notching steel tubing, my suggesting is to clamp a grinder in a vise, then use a magic marker outining your tubing that you want to cope / fishmouth and makesure you have a level table to slowly cutout the fishmouth to fit the two pieces of steel together for a tight fit.

    Correct me if I misunderstood the question.

    C.H.
     
  5. tooljunkie

    tooljunkie Member

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  6. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    I use a regular old 4" angle grinder unless I have access to a tubing notcher. Most of the cheap ones I've used are junk unless you own stock in a hole saw company...just mark and grind carefully a bit at a time.
     
  7. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    I wonder if anyone knows of an in line filter for the argon/carbon dioxide high pressure gas mix from the bottle being use for MIG, so that there is an additional line of defense to the regulator and gauges beside the little screen at the inlet to the regulator.

    I have heard of one for high pressure air a long time ago that was small and used for scuba tanks being filled for extra measure to prevent contaminant into the tank being filled.

    I already have a fairly full ARCO2 bottle that I have been told by the supplier that it is good, but my cheap 80 dollar regulator went on the fritz and lucky I am getting a courtesy replacement. It is 1 a 1/2 years old and the warranty was supposed to be just 1 year.

    I was thinking buying something to give extra measure of keeping this second regulator working.

    I probably just had the regulator go bad and the tank is fine, but it happened right after I had exchanged the tank that was the only one I used for the last 1 an 1/2 years and had no problem.

    The regulator pressure gauge for tank rises so slowly and when bleeding off pressure it drops slowly, both like 1/2 hr to go to fill current level and to zero.

    Secondly the approximated kind of flow rate using needle gauge has the flow occasionally fluctuate back and forth between the 15 cfm at the 18 cfm. I know when I set it for 15 cfm with the nozzle trigger on, that it goes up to 18 cfm normally. This is OK, but if it fluctuates back and forth going to the 18 cfm when trigger is pulled, then it indicates that the flow of gas has actually stopped. That would be common sense I suppose.

    Since it did not do that fluctuating continuously I did continued to weld that day OK, but I know that it probably will quit working altogether at the worst possible time.

    What you think, aside from the good news I get another cheapie regulator and hope for the best. I also looked at the inlet screen on the regulator they don't even want shipped back. It looks OK, but the company says they do not have parts to sell for servicing this regulator and they do not work on them.

    For S & G's if the replacement one works, then after a while I may go on a mission to disassemble the old regulator to see what made it stop ticking. Then I can weld it into some artistic piece as I would not attempt to fix it other than replacing the inlet screen.

    There are no leaks on it and it does have an over pressure release valve which is intact, so I guess the day has come for throw away regulators.

    The upside a replacement is on its way and that I can recycle the metal for making a lamp. The switch could be the large wing that swings around on the flow rate setting modified for artistic purpose.

    MT
     
    #87 MEASURE TWICE, Mar 19, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2013
  8. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    Most of the regulators I have seen have a sintered metal filter in the fitting that attaches the regulator to the tank.
    Of course, I'm talking about commercial grade stuff, Not about the china welders.
     
  9. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    I got a courtesy replacement although I was supposed to only have 1 year not 3 years and it is about 1 and a 1/2 years old regulator. Both of them have that kind of filter and there is nothing from the outside I can see. Probably it just went bad. The one I first got was made in USA and that was only made a small lot for Hobart. The one I got now as a replacement from Hobart is made in China as my original model regulator there are none left in stock.

    I guess all will be fine, but I have not had a chance to yet hook up the one I got courtesy.

    Just a thought. The way these regulators are built and how it may go bad or wear out, it may work with low pressure in the tank, like under 1000 psi, but from full fill at 2250 psi it acts up.

    I mean why when I had the cylinder swapped when I was running below 500 psi, was it that it happens with a good clean full filled cylinder? Maybe just happened that way, but if I ask my friend to see if I could use his tank when it is below 1000 psi and hook up the old regulator and it works, well that could be it.

    I use the welder so infrequently it could be another 1 and a 1/2 years before I get it swapped out again.

    MT
     
  10. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    I tested out the new regulator and it works fine.

    There is something I noticed about the flow rate gauge which is an approximate type needle unit. As I have known already from using those type gauges, they have to be set about 3cfh above 15cfh to 18cfh for the desired flow of 15cfh. When holding the trigger the needle drops to 15cfh.

    Whats new on this regulator is it drops down 4cfh from 18cfh to 14cfh. Then it rises slowly to 15cfh. I feel it is fine, just that if it rises back up to 18cfh while still depressing the trigger, then the flow I'll have to assume is stopped and there is something wrong.

    Some test welding on bike frame tube to channel metal steel:

    http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=471338#post471338 see post 122 3 pics
     
  11. FTW

    FTW New Member

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    extremely impressed with the range of knowlage and intrest in bike building hear. THIS FORUM JUST KEEPS GIVING!!!
     
  12. FTW

    FTW New Member

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    auflgextremely impressed with the range of knowlage and intrest in bike building hear. THIS FORUM JUST KEEPS GIVING!!!
     
  13. Jim C

    Jim C New Member

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    I am a highly skilled retired machinist/tool & die maker I would like to rent some time on a Bridgeport mill or any vertical mill. In or near Long Beach Calif.
     
  14. Crazy Horse

    Crazy Horse Dealer

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    FTW, we have a saying here in the USA which reminds me of you and the type of build you are pursuing.

    It's when someone is insane mentally ill.

    Saying is: He's gone Postal, ie crazy, sound familiar to an Aussie?

    Postie, ie the Honda CT110 riden by Australian Postal Carrier's ie Aussie mailman!

    Let us know when you've started your motorized bicycle Stretch Cruiser Drag Bicycle, with the Postie engine.

    C.H.
     
  15. JustAnotherBozoOnABike

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    thanks Crazy Horse, your 'friend request' is the closest thing to a welcome i've gotten around here, ...so far it hasn't seemed like a very friendly place so thanks again.

    ...now i'll go back to lurking and studying, ...so thanks too for sharing your knowledge, you personally have posted up a fair bit of homework for me and i best get started.

    ...i think i'll start with your Harbor Freight thread so i'll at least have the right tools when things hit the fan.

    peace, bozo
     
  16. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    I buy the flap disks, grinder, an cutter wheels for my angle grinder there and there good.

    My $15 tap and die set from Harbor Freight I did one 1/4 - 20 thread and the next one tried the tip of the tap was mashed.

    Soft metal maybe for next time I use that. My Vermont / American (don't know if that really is made in USA) I was missing a couple of them and my friend has the same kit. I borrowed the tap and did just great putting threads in the end of the Briggs crankshaft to have extra security to keeping the clutch in place.

    Whats really neat is as the engine turns it naturally self tightens. Normal Right Hand Threads on the crankshaft that comes out the left side of the engine. Engine spins counter clockwise as looking at the end of the crankshaft toward the crankcase cover.

    MT
     
  17. Crazy Horse

    Crazy Horse Dealer

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    bozo, your welcome and thanks for hanging in there with us crazies here at motorbicycling.com, you are in the right place.

    Bozo, please checkout these these books from atomic zombie you don't need to have a million dollars or a million tools to build some amazing motorized bicycles, see the books below that I'm suggesting, you'll find a wealth of knowledge in them, and with some inexpensive horrible fright tools you'll be amazed at how cheap it is to build your own custom bicycles.

    Here's the link to the book titled: Bike, Scooter, and Chopper Projects for the Evil Genius & Atomic Zombie's Bicycle Builder's Bonanza
    http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Scooter-..._B001I9TW9C_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367536614&sr=1-2

    http://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Zombie..._B001I9TW9C_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367536614&sr=1-1

    Bozo, let us know what you think about this book?

    Peace Crazy Horse.
     
  18. Crazy Horse

    Crazy Horse Dealer

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    It's amazing how much this section of the forum has grown, I remember asking " Paul " If I gave him the Forum Title and what it's about he'd review it for a new section, wow time flies....It is now known as " ( Motorized Bicycle Welding, Fabrication and Painting - The Chop Shop Custom fabrication and projects, tanks, frames and more. ), I've always tried to help inspire others and make this place the greatest motorized bicycling forum. I believe it still is and always will be IMO. Peace Crazy Horse.
     
    #98 Crazy Horse, Sep 19, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2016
  19. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    Maybe we can fire up this thread again! Maybe also NorCal cal have some slightly less freezing nights. Soon to see about a slightly bigger and much better shape Briggs engine for my bike, and how well it works on the trails. I got a new OHV Sticker, but 28F degree nights is not ideal. 90 Summer heat the engine does not run to well. 40's for day time temps now I'd be interested is seeing the better power combined with less used 9000 series 3.5 hp in place of the worn 8000 series 3hp Briggs climbs hills well.

    The two engines I thought would be a easy swap, but the cranks shaft is a short shaft and larger diameter. Mods to make it work are nearly done. I even found the old rings I saved when I bought new ones for the old engine. Once I split the crankcase on the old engine, I might find a broken ring and just use the saved parts. It is hard to get replacement parts for everything on the older engines.
     
    #99 MEASURE TWICE, Dec 27, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2016

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