Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
Brilliant! 
Way Back Machine
- Thread starter wrenching4fun
- Start date
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Tom. Sometimes things just work out. Replaced my 8 inch jackshaft for one that's 4.75" long since the freewheel that did go to the pedal now rides on the kickstart. Couldn't test it out cause wifey wants to ride pedal-assist ebikes for exercise and when mom's happy, everyone's happy. Ebikes it is!
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Someone politely reminded me today, "If you can't pedal it, it's not a bicycle." The message sent me back to the shop to correct the technicality by reverting back to a pull start and reconnecting the crank to the jackshaft so technically you can pedal the bike, though I won't be doing that as long as I have gasoline. Thank goodness I kept all of the parts from the original configuration, so it was simple to go back.
During the process of changing everything back, two issues raised their ugly head. First, the engine wouldn't start because there was no spark. After 30 minutes of frustrating diagnosis I eliminated the ignition switch and the air gap, and the plug tested good on another engine. Long story, short: the connection on the plug boot was bad. I whacked the factory boot off (the connector was simply a piece of coiled wire that slipped over the plug with one end inserted in the plug wire) , removed a short section of wire and screwed in an NGK plug cap.
The engine fired right up, but the pedals spun like crazy as if there was no freewheel. Another long story short: I opened the freewheel up, found that one of the pawls was outside the spring and was floating around freely in the freewheel causing it to lock up. I repositioned the spring, packed the race with bearing grease, and re-inserted all of the tiny little bearings. Now the Chinese freewheel runs like a Japanese one.
Tomorrow I'm riding come **** or high water!
During the process of changing everything back, two issues raised their ugly head. First, the engine wouldn't start because there was no spark. After 30 minutes of frustrating diagnosis I eliminated the ignition switch and the air gap, and the plug tested good on another engine. Long story, short: the connection on the plug boot was bad. I whacked the factory boot off (the connector was simply a piece of coiled wire that slipped over the plug with one end inserted in the plug wire) , removed a short section of wire and screwed in an NGK plug cap.
The engine fired right up, but the pedals spun like crazy as if there was no freewheel. Another long story short: I opened the freewheel up, found that one of the pawls was outside the spring and was floating around freely in the freewheel causing it to lock up. I repositioned the spring, packed the race with bearing grease, and re-inserted all of the tiny little bearings. Now the Chinese freewheel runs like a Japanese one.
Tomorrow I'm riding come **** or high water!
Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
This has been one the best builds in a while.
Tom
Tom
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Under the heading of "can't leave well enough alone", started doodling with some scrap sheet metal today and before I knew it, I had a more appropriate dash for my ignition and instruments. Lucky for me, it fit in front of the headlight, so no re-jiggering. It's a small piece of sheet metal that was the case of a burned out battery charger. There's still a question about whether this thing will ever be finished!
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Curt. Couldn't have done this without the Dremel my son gave for Christmas last year and my well used set of needle files, instrumental in forming the notch in the ignition switch hole that keeps the barrel from rotating when you change position.
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
Meaning to delete this, was seeing what you wrote on page 3 "Decided to fabricate a complete springer seat carriage instead of going with a rearward seat post."
See next reply, about where to get somethings to make the springs type banana seat.
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MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
I like the springs for the seat and how you mounted the support bars for a kind of banana seat.
I have seen the shocks for banana seat sold that use the rear drop out, but I see those are used on your build for fender mounts for the rear wheel.
I suspect there is a hinge under the seat and the springs in the back are mounted on what looks like welded up parts from a donor bike.
The springs you have used, where did they come from. I mean, were they actually from something totally unrelated to bicycles?
MT
I have seen the shocks for banana seat sold that use the rear drop out, but I see those are used on your build for fender mounts for the rear wheel.
I suspect there is a hinge under the seat and the springs in the back are mounted on what looks like welded up parts from a donor bike.
The springs you have used, where did they come from. I mean, were they actually from something totally unrelated to bicycles?
MT
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Hi MT. Yes, a t-shaped stud with a pivot hole is bolted to the seat pan. The stud sits in a slot in the original seat post where a corresponding hole holds a 1/4 pin that serves as a pivot. The rear springs are what we call porch swing springs in the south. They are sold in hardware stores and box stores like Lowes and Home depot. They are the correct tension for springer front ends as well as springer seats. The keepers are Dorman brass freeze plugs with a hole drilled in the center for a 5/16 bolt that holds everything in place. The support for the springs was made from heavy pipe handlebars off an old Sears rototiller. I cut them in half up front so they cradle the frame, then welded a plate between them. I did the same to the other half of the pipes and drilled holes in both plates to clamp onto the frame. The original angle of the pipe was perfect, sometimes things turn out that way. Other times require some concerted heating and bending. Fabricating parts like this takes a lot of trial and error, bunches of patience, and tons of cutting and grinding. I wouldn't try it without a welder, an angle grinder, and bench grinder. A set of good files helps with finishing.
I appreciate your interest and hope this answers your questions. All of this is pretty much moot because I went for a ride this afternoon and decided I needed a lower center of gravity for better handling. The setup for the seat makes it easy to swap out options, so I reverted to the original J.C. Higgins seat pan and springs which lowered my seating a good 2 or 3 inches. It could go another inch lower by removing he spacers beneath the springs. As you can see from the photos, I kept everything the same except the front mount which I fabricated from another bicycle seat frame. It pivots on the bolt normally used to tighten the seat post. In place of a post, I inserted and oversized aluminum stove bolt to serve as a plug. Wifey said the new seat looks uncomfortable, but it's not. It's actually very cushy despite the funky squeaking sounds it makes when you hit a bump! The beauty is, I can switch back to the other seat in about 15 minutes.
I appreciate your interest and hope this answers your questions. All of this is pretty much moot because I went for a ride this afternoon and decided I needed a lower center of gravity for better handling. The setup for the seat makes it easy to swap out options, so I reverted to the original J.C. Higgins seat pan and springs which lowered my seating a good 2 or 3 inches. It could go another inch lower by removing he spacers beneath the springs. As you can see from the photos, I kept everything the same except the front mount which I fabricated from another bicycle seat frame. It pivots on the bolt normally used to tighten the seat post. In place of a post, I inserted and oversized aluminum stove bolt to serve as a plug. Wifey said the new seat looks uncomfortable, but it's not. It's actually very cushy despite the funky squeaking sounds it makes when you hit a bump! The beauty is, I can switch back to the other seat in about 15 minutes.
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wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Got my foot caught on my tool box while dismounting this morning. Decided to yank it off and was shocked by its weight. Wasn't too keen on its looks, gave the bike a scooter vibe! Now I need to replace the modern mirrors with some vintage ones. Donated some old Harley mirrors, wish I had them back. Oh yeh, the 415 drive chain was crowding the one coming from the jackshaft, so I swapped it out for a KMC bicycle chain. Had to add a half link to make it fit even with the axle slots, but it runs straight and smooth. Still not sure about the looks of the Higgins set pan. Might go back to ole softy.
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Lowered the seat further into the cradle of the frame by removing extraneous hardware and changing mounting points. It's more comfy and now
doesn't squeak when I hit a bump.
doesn't squeak when I hit a bump.
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
View attachment 117235
I was looking at the last picture, that shows on the left side near the engine, what looks like an airfilter to the carb intake.
Also, there is something that looks like an airfilter, but a little smaller on the right side near the engine.
Is this like what I saw somewhere posted about using the breather output not going back into the carb intake, but a catch can, and then the vent for the output of the catch can goes to an airfilter to open air. Is that something like that?
My catch can I am making is since my engine is 17 degree tilted aft. More oil gets to the area of the tappets to valve stem area where breather is, then gets oil on my paper airfilter clogging it up.
I have an airfilter that is left over from trying to use a Chinese Version of a Tecumseh Carb with adjustments for air fuel. It was junk and only I could not return the filter. I expect I can make an adapter to vent my catch can output to this saved from landfill airfilter.
MT
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Hi again, MT.
You are spot on about the small filter. It simply vents the crankcase into the atmosphere instead of running the contamination through the carb. If you look at cars built before the environmental movement, they have similar filters on both valve covers. The idea is to keep the flow through the carb as clean and pure as possible while equalizing pressure in the crankcase. Since the hose runs 90 degrees up to the filter, there is no depletion in the oil level or need for a catch can. I have used this design many times and have never had oil blow out the filter. The filters are available at most auto parts stores and fit perfectly on a 5/16 hose. I remember buying three or four in a pack for 8 bucks several years ago, I'm sure they're more now.
The one on the carb is a larger version of the same type of filter with an elbow from a 1" diameter radiator hose between the filter and a simple intake made from the flange and a small section of pipe from a 2-stroke exhaust. Everything is held in place with two radiator clamps. Easy on/easy off/easy adjustment of the angle. The filter has a chrome housing with a non-restrictive core and are available from O'Reilly Auto Parts for around $20. I've never replaced one.
I hope this helps.
You are spot on about the small filter. It simply vents the crankcase into the atmosphere instead of running the contamination through the carb. If you look at cars built before the environmental movement, they have similar filters on both valve covers. The idea is to keep the flow through the carb as clean and pure as possible while equalizing pressure in the crankcase. Since the hose runs 90 degrees up to the filter, there is no depletion in the oil level or need for a catch can. I have used this design many times and have never had oil blow out the filter. The filters are available at most auto parts stores and fit perfectly on a 5/16 hose. I remember buying three or four in a pack for 8 bucks several years ago, I'm sure they're more now.
The one on the carb is a larger version of the same type of filter with an elbow from a 1" diameter radiator hose between the filter and a simple intake made from the flange and a small section of pipe from a 2-stroke exhaust. Everything is held in place with two radiator clamps. Easy on/easy off/easy adjustment of the angle. The filter has a chrome housing with a non-restrictive core and are available from O'Reilly Auto Parts for around $20. I've never replaced one.
I hope this helps.
wrenching4fun
Well-Known Member
Every time I go out for a ride I think of ways to improve the bike. This time convention got ahold of me and I realized it would be more comfortable to have the shifter behind the tank instead of in front of it. In a matter of minutes I went from carefree rider, soaking up sunshine with the breeze in my face, to a mad hatter mechanic, changing everything up just for the fun of it! Of course every little change has a domino effect and before I knew it the whole afternoon, that I was going to devote to a ride into town, was completely shot. The simple switch required a longer fuel line, a shorter shift cable, and a modification to the seat mount. I actually like things better this way and don't mind the time it took to pull it off.
