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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Xiodinc, Dec 21, 2009.
my favorite mod to date springer forks with drum brake actuated by oversize motorcycle style lever!
The sick bike parts expansion chamber was the best upgrade i purchased, i never knew i could break traction on a bicycle!
Decided to quit thinking so hard about rubber mounting for Chinese motor. Simply pulled motor loose, inserted pieces cut out of a sheet of roofing rubber (the kind they use on flat roofs) and put them around the frame where the stock Chinese mounts go, bolted them back up, and very noticable difference! Less vibration AND less noise; I guess it makes sense, if the engine noise isn't being resonated through the whole bike frame. Any roofing company that does flat roofs should sell (or give away) the tiny trimmings that would be adequate. They may not last forever, but it's only a 10 min job. And the motor is still held firmly in place against torque.
Try it, you'll like it!
Replaced all hardware. Gutted the engine and replaced all ball bearings and wristpin needle bearing. Ported jug and high compression head. Dellorto carb. SBP pipe, ngk cap and 8.8mm silicon wire with ngk b6hs plug.
I've considered rubber mounting my engine because I've broken my rear mounting studs off twice! Hopefully with the shift-kit mounting bracket my motor won't twice apart again, either that or I'm upgrading to 8mm studs and rubber!
I work in the printing industry (newspapers etc.) and am using old 'blankets' as cushions everywhere something bolts to the frame. They seem to really cut down on vibrations. They are basically rubber sheets backed with canvas so they are quite durable. You could probably go to the local print shop (minuteman etc.) and ask if they have any used "blankets" I have pretty much an endless supply so if anyone has trouble finding them I would be willing to send them out if you pay the postage. I can't imagine an 8.5 x 11 sheet would cost more than a buck or 2 to mail. Or if you know a pressman you should be set. Feel free to email me [email protected]
OK- Although I got the carb as I was mounting the billet intake- I first tested just the billet with the old carb to be sure of what is doing what- Remarkable improvement in carburetion!
I would say, for the money, (I paid $10 plus shipping, I think they've gone up to $11)
the short alloy billet carb intake is the single best improvement, at least on engine performance. (I still swear by $10, 1.75 wide tires for the roll). The billet gets the carb much closer to the engine. I reamed mine out further until the smaller carb side at least felt as wide or wider than the stock intake opening. The motor side is much wider and more matches the motor ports- if you cut a new gasket to match as well at least.
I'm two stroking now at will consistently and still have yet to try the new NTS carb with the larger ports and jet.
The drawbacks- you have to cut the clutch cable bolt under the carb for clearance, and lowering the carb cuts down the frame clearnce slightly- the NTS will barely clear my frame even though the billet itself is shorter.
As far as motor mounts- I've used that flexible pipe insulation styrene-type material with excellent results- I think it is more absorbing than rubber, if the right thickness- about 1/8". And it cuts real easy.
You can see the billet a little bit here:
Heres better views:
The first one you can see the limited tighter frame clearance. The second is a close up of the billet.
Note the black gunk around the bottom screw on carb- I put some gasket sealer there and around outer threads of idle screw- seems to really cut down on the gas leaking.
Heres the links to Pirates and Creative Engineering:
Ported Billet Intake