Upgrades and mods from stock

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Xiodinc, Dec 21, 2009.

  1. Xiodinc

    Xiodinc New Member

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    Hey guys, post all of your positive upgrades/modifications that you bought/did to enhance your bike
     
  2. Finfan

    Finfan New Member

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    Creative Engineering sprocket mount.
    Spring loaded chain tensioner from Livefastmotors.
    Heavy duty rear wheel and heavy duty front wheel with drum brake from Husky Bicycles.
    Honda ATV lever and pedestal for clutch lever.

    Those are the main ones anyway.

    Edit: Oh yeah! I switched from the original 415 chain to #41 Roller chain. Much stronger!
     
  3. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    bought a 70 year old bike. put my motor together backwards. got good tires. took my time and put it all together right.
     
  4. rockvoice

    rockvoice New Member

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    aside from from all the speed stuff my favorite mod (which i do on every bike ) is the "large filipino" clutch cable mod, makes the clutch pull like butter.
     

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  5. Venice Motor Bikes

    Venice Motor Bikes Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles

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    Front disc brakes!! ;)
     
  6. The 26incher

    The 26incher New Member

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    I think a front disc brake is a must have! I don't have one (yet) on my bike and today I almost slid right in front of a car. The best mod to my bike has been the custom 2 person saddle. My girl fits it like a glove. I wish I could post pic's....
     
  7. Dave31

    Dave31 Moderator
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    #7 Dave31, Dec 22, 2009
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  8. hambro

    hambro New Member

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    very interested in the "large filipino" clutch cable and browning #41 chain. where exactly can i purchase these items online. google the chain and didn't come up with any good leads.
     
  9. Dave31

    Dave31 Moderator
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    Most guys get there #41 chain from Tractor Supply Company - Home

    I get my chain in town from Bearing Belt and Chain
    430 W 22nd St
    Tucson, AZ 85713-1596
    (520) 792-1231

    You can check local go-kart/lawn shops for the #41

    You can see the difference in quality Left stock Chain, Right #41
     

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  10. turkman

    turkman Member

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    I replaced all the crappy screws and bolts with socket cap screws and locktite all of them, later Bob
     
  11. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

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    In order

    ---$10 suspension seatpost on ebay- a lighter alloy also now available in 1"/ 2.54 cm, but harder to find.

    ----suspension fork- somewhat hard to find for 1 inch headset and 2.22 stem- in correct length Got one at Cruisinthe lowlife on ebay

    ---36 tooth sprocket- big difference in cruise speed- less for mountain climbing!

    ---narrower tires and wheels- went first from 2.25 knobby cruiser tires to street tread 1.75 width- another big difference, and less vibration. Now have 27" inch wheel on the front, with a Caqmpagnolo road brake, and plan to also now change back wheel to 27 x 1 1/4 alloy- a real easy pedal now and lots less work for motor for the same returns. Will try now a 32 tooth rear sprocket I've had. I'm interested mostly in just street commuting in flat Florida

    Just mounted short billet intake and getting new NTS carb- untried

    Almost finshed with Schwinn Traveller build as well- 50 slant head with alloy 27 inch wheels- but tired and arthritic- I'm about through changing things around!

    IMDb :: Boards :: An Inconvenient Truth (2006) :: No one is talking about NOISE POLLUTION...
    I am harpon!
     

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  12. wes

    wes New Member

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    Giant threadless headset and sus. forks, 2.3" nobby front tire and an Armadillo for the rear on Mavic double wall rims and cannondale hubs with a 36t disc brake mounted sprocket, Creative enginereings ported intake and a night rider 110 lumens rechargable light!!![​IMG]
     
  13. Outrunner

    Outrunner New Member

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    Lowes or Home Depot sells #41 chain also
     
  14. wjliebhauser

    wjliebhauser New Member

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    Best mods for me were a spring chain tensioner (my own simple design) to take the slap out of the chain; fenders from e-bay so pants stay clean on the way to work; 72 LED headlight from Hong Kong (very bright!); switching the front brake handle to the right side, so I can brake effectively while working the clutch on the left; and lots of Loctite.

    The next mod will be dis-mounting the engine and fabricating rubber mountings...just haven't quite figured that one out exactly yet. Any rubber mount designs anyone would care to share?
     
  15. Evan

    Evan New Member

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    You have any pics or details on your tension set up?
    Evan
     
  16. wjliebhauser

    wjliebhauser New Member

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    Evan, it's pretty simple, so I hope not disapointing. Easy to make if you have a hacksaw, a drill, and a small file (a 3-corner file is best). The bracket from the stock tensioner is used. The lever is a piece of 3/4 x 1/8 steel bar stock. From your parts pile or hardware store you need a stiff spring, a 1 and 1/2 in 3/8 Grade 5 or better bolt, 2 nuts and a lock washer.

    Drill a 3/8 hole at one end, another 3/8 hole about 2 and 1/2 inches from it, and at the other end, a small hole for the spring. The stock idler roller goes in the first 3/8 hole, but you need to use the file to shape the hole to accept the flat shaft of the idler roller axle. The lever goes on the 3/8 bolt. Put the bolt into the slot on the stock bracket where the idler roller axle was originally and run one nut on, the the lock washer, the the second nut; put on a little Loctite and use wrenches on the two nuts to make them TIGHT, holding the bolt in place such that there is a gap between the bolt head and lever so the lever will rotate on the bolt freely (this maximizes the clearance between the wheel spokes and the bolt head, as opposed to putting one of the nuts on the inside of the bracket). Put the idler roller into the filed-out hole, and connect the spring, and you are all done.

    Being a bit compulsive, I used a buffing wheel and some Tripoli compound to really polish the idler roller axle bearing surface, and lubed it with wheel bearing grease before assembling, and put a little grease on the bolt where the lever rotates. Like the stock set-up, be sure the bracket is TIGHT on the bike strut and check once in awhile to make sure the whole assembly isn't being pulled toward the wheel spokes, as the torque will tend to do.

    Not as professional looking as some of the commercial offerings, but as I had all the pieces on hand, my cash outlay was $0. Took me about 30 minutes and that included painting. The lessening of chain noise and smoothness going from coasting to acceleration was really was noticeable. Hope this is useful for you, and hope between the pic and my rambling I have explained it.
     

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    #16 wjliebhauser, Dec 26, 2009
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  17. Evan

    Evan New Member

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    Mornig houser
    Disappointing? He** no! The only thing disappointing about that is that I didn't think of that myself. I'm all about simple when the functionality is there and i think you nailed it. Thanks for the great write up and awesome pic. As soon as I fully wake up and it gets over 25 degrees out there I'm headed to the shop and I think I have the needed materials on hand. I'll post a pic when done. May I suggest you post this great upgrade to the mods and upgrades post. http://motorbicycling.com/f3/upgrades-mods-stock-13886.html I'm sure others could use it.
    Thanks again Evandance1
     
  18. wjliebhauser

    wjliebhauser New Member

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    Evan, shucks, now my head is all swelled up [:) I'll see if I can figure out how to post as you suggest...chunks of metal and power tools are easier for me than compooters; although on cold days like this they give me an excuse to sit inside on my arse! have a great day
     
  19. christopher fowler

    christopher fowler New Member

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    bairdco your bike is awesome ! If i copie you and flip my head around you get credit . i f ing love the astheics of this mod.how does it run?
     
  20. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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