Unsure about brake/bearing quality

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by dustrider, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. dustrider

    dustrider New Member

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    One of the primary reasons that I want to use a cruiser base (other than the fact that I like the looks) is that I like the idea of the coaster brake. My questions for you all are:

    1. Is the coaster brake an effective and reliable choice compared to other brake systems (it is important to me to be able to stop :)

    2. Which makes or models should I be looking for for the best quality build?

    I'm not familiar with which (if any) cruiser manufacturers are known for good quality and am concerned about bearing life. I had a Huffy mountain bike and I tore the bearings out of it the first time I cranked through sand. Are there good quality bearings that I can use to replace the stock ones that will last longer?
    Thanks in advance for any help
     
  2. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    The only reliable new coaster hub available now is the shimano cb e-110.

    All the cheap bikes usually come with hi stop, falcon, kt, or some other china junk that looks similar to the shimano, but they're all garbage.

    Not only do the bearings fail, but the brake guts blow up, the hub shells crack, wear out the bearing races, and are just plain lousy.

    If you're just building a simple cruiser, a coaster brake alone is usually ok. It's always a good idea to have a front brake, though.

    With a coaster brake, if your pedal chain falls off, you ain't stopping til you hit something.

    And always, always, always, make sure the brake arm is strapped to the frame and tight.

    Check Husky Industrial bikes for a reasonably priced set of heavy duty wheels. You can get a front drum brake which always looks good on a cruiser.
     
    excludeddispirited likes this.
  3. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    Just thinking with those special one way bearings, could a design come up with a back pedal to pull a brake cable for rim, disc, or drum brake.

    I've just used pegs and have no pedals, but that is cause I ride legal off road with reg. It would be interesting as so many things like auto shifting with multiple centrifugal clutches and the like have been done. Maybe this too?
     
  4. Potato_In_Exhaust

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    Coaster brakes are like strippers........ you can't trust em'!
     
  5. mat_man

    mat_man New Member

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  6. allen standley

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    I agree with Bairdco, I don’t pedal much only to start the motor. I don’t ride to stay fit. With that said my choice for reliability and good rear braking has always been hub mounted adapter with the Shimano coaster brake in a wheel laced with 11 or 12 gauge spokes. If you choose a wheel with standard 14g or smaller spokes you will have problems. Constant torque accelerate – braking De-accellerate WILL eventually lead to spoke failure at the wheel especially using the rag joint which comes with a kit. Explore at the link attached. You can get a cheaper generic coaster brake but as Bairdco noted the quality is incomparable to the Shimano CBs. I have photos of wheel failure on a multi speed wheel and 14 g spokes. Luckily I didn’t get hurt and made it home before catastrophie. See my albums for wheel tips and mounting suggestions. Be Safe!
    http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=hb&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=500-224
     
    #6 allen standley, Mar 28, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2017
  7. dustrider

    dustrider New Member

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    Thanks bairdco and Allen, this is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. The Husky wheel looks like a good choice. I really appreciate the detailed replys!!
     
  8. xseler

    xseler Well-Known Member

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  9. ZipTie

    ZipTie Member

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    if Your getting a dept store Cruiser I always add both front and rear pull brakes and then never use the coaster as not only is the brake crap the cheap soft coaster arm can strip and cause the cone nuts to get loose with out warning. So get front and rear brakes and a sunlit double pull lever for both brakes to be activated. Install single double pull lever on throttle side.
    Here is the brake set I use for dept store cruisers like Huffy. and the double pull handle\

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-All...066934?hash=item3d19282736:g:ZDsAAOSw7FRWWb~o

    Brake set fits all Huffy, Kent etc. cruisers. As the hole is there on the fork for front and ready to go on the rear. don't forget the 2 cables a short one for the front and long for the rear. Huffy Cruisers have the strongest wheels with steel rims and thick 12 gauge spokes.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1080-style-...783425?hash=item2c9dd8aac1:g:YpIAAOSwHnFVnr9V

    Zip
     
  10. ZipTie

    ZipTie Member

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    Yeah grease and pack your bearing with good red sticky grease before you ride and re grease at least every 700 miles. Reinforce cruiser fenders or toss em. I shorten them with a aviator snips and reinforce them , so they are still there and look good but are now safe. They cut like butter with these snips. your bearings failed because they had no grease from the assembler/ you can put thousands of mikes on even Huffy- Kent or Schwinn bearings if they are kept greased well. Get a good USA made engine side mount chain tensioner with a Skateboard wheel on it and a CNC 1.5 hub adapter for the sprocket and you can enjoy trouble free cruiser heaven right away. It will also pedal like butter when not using the engine. Get a cool retro LED head light add a good flashing taillight. The bikes are quite inexpensive and can allow you to get the right components to have a very reliable ride and have a great looking bike too.
    zip/
     
  11. dustrider

    dustrider New Member

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    Thanks ZipTie, when you suggest reinforcing the fenders do you ssuggest something beyond shortening? The double pull handle is a great option that I didn't know existed. Does your low opinion of coaster brakes apply to all including the Shimano etc.? I guess with the double pull set up you could just consider the coaster as a back-up.
     
  12. Potato_In_Exhaust

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    Coaster brakes are for kids!!
     
  13. allen standley

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    Potato in exhaust. Humph. No albums, no pics, no reputable friends. Nothing which gives any thing you post any cred. Sometimes it is best to sit back read / learn and try to be helpful instead of noticed. That is how the forum works best. Somebody should have told you way before now "If you have nothing to say - say nothing." Elite my arse.
     
  14. allen standley

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    Also dust rider I have an album titled Safe fenders. You can check out my tips with pics there.
     
  15. dustrider

    dustrider New Member

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    That's ok potato_head, I'm just an old kid anyway!dnut
     
  16. ZipTie

    ZipTie Member

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    Dustrider Yep use Allen-standleys great guide on reinforcement. His methods are awesome. I shorten them a lot and add another L bracket if I can or add one more side support brace. I've been adding light weight plastic fenders on non-cruiser builds recently with success. The front fender is the biggest worry as it can flip around like a ski under your tire and u can use your imagination to figure out what will happen then. Even wrapping a good ziptie at brace point to the fork will be better than nothing to keep it from flipping. Also inspect fenders often.

    I'm super glad you discovered the double pull handle as it is your new best friend as it simplifies the whole brake issue for 11bucks. I am all about high safety at a reasonable cost. I've used the double pull on 22 builds now, even when I have disc brakes.

    Anyhow yes the shimano is way better than the huffy one but I prefer to just ignore the coaster brake and yes use it in an emergency only as you then have 3 brakes to stop you.

    Hope all this helps you
    zip
     
  17. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    Not that I think those very narrow plastic fenders where attached to the bottom of the bike seat are not a good idea, but I saw something today that makes them ineffective I think.

    So OK, but if your seat has where I saw a guy with a foot extension riding past me, I thought this does not seem like the fender can do much where it is located and won't do much protecting from spray off the tire.

    The rear wheel can spin off some muddy water as it spins. An noting that there is the same width of the tire, as it is the fender. A greater distance like a foot away means the spray will not be completely staying in a narrow pattern.

    Anyway if the fender as short as it was and as far away from the wheel as it was, means like no risk at all of the fender getting caught in the tire if bent. It would have to break.
     
  18. ZipTie

    ZipTie Member

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    Yep far away fenders do little good. As long as they are fairly close to the tire shorter ones are better than no fenders. I also think fenders add a bit of class if you have them on, especially on a beach cruiser style. Long fenders seem to turn into harmonic rattle traps on a gas bike.

    I've only been putting plastic fenders on the in tank frames as they have a kind of a contemporary or dirt bike look to them.
    Here is how I use plastic fenders and the type that work best for great coverage.
    http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=62579

    Here is a thread showing shortened cruiser fenders I just built
    http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=62700&page=4

    zip

    zip
     
  19. karl lagerfeild

    karl lagerfeild New Member

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    I've been using Chinese and Taiwan hubs on all three of my bikes for about 8 months now, with regular re greasing and making sure it is not loose or tight. ive had no problems.
     
  20. dustrider

    dustrider New Member

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    Beautiful work ZipTie, inspiring!
     

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