ugh!!! chain is getting stuck in the motor

the_edge150

Dealer
ok, i fixed the chain from coming off the sproket, but now it gets stuck inside the motor , the chain is brand new, bought it today, its 415 any suggestions BESIDES getting a different chain?
 
Grind the sharp edges off the sprocket.....I would suggest #41 chain, but seeing as you just got the #415, grinding is your best bet.....
 
#41 and 415 chain are one in the same! check out your master link what side is the plate on ? and the closed end of the clip should enter motor first.
 
#41 and 415 chain are one in the same! check out your master link what side is the plate on ? and the closed end of the clip should enter motor first.

They both have the same pitch, but the #41 is wider, 415 is 3/16" wide and #41 is 1/4" wide, and might work better on a new sprocket...
 
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I take it that it hangs in the motor housing when you try to start it. Sounds like there is too much slack in the chain. Should be 1/2 to 3/4 inch slack on the top chain length. (i.e. length of chain that runs over top of sprockets)
 
Are your sprockets lined up? You can move the rear sprocket right or left via the cone nuts. I can't think of any other reason that the chain would jump the rear sprocket if the chain tension (slack) is 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
 
ok here is what is happening:
 

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Is the rear sprocket a "dish" shaped and not flat? If so, the teeth should bow away from the wheel, not inward. Just a thought. Last pic looks like 2 much slack and would cause jumping.
 
Is the rear sprocket a "dish" shaped and not flat? If so, the teeth should bow away from the wheel, not inward. Just a thought. Last pic looks like 2 much slack and would cause jumping.
its a flat rear sprocket, and here is what happened when i tightened the chain
 

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In the pic, it big time looks like the sprocket needs filing. Might just be the pic. I have had two when coated, left sharp edges that made the chain ride up. I used a hand file and tested by walking the bike and watching and it took a wile. I have never seen enough torque generated to bend a frame the way yours did. If you look at pictures of other bikes, the tensioner is not that far back. But I honestly don't know if that is contributing.
 
In the pic, it big time looks like the sprocket needs filing. Might just be the pic. I have had two when coated, left sharp edges that made the chain ride up. I used a hand file and tested by walking the bike and watching and it took a wile. I have never seen enough torque generated to bend a frame the way yours did. If you look at pictures of other bikes, the tensioner is not that far back. But I honestly don't know if that is contributing.

filing it on the sides or inbetween the teeth?
 
Make the very top of each individual tooth rounded. Knock off the edges so that it is more like a butter knife shape the a toothed top of a rook (castle) chess piece. Then it will more easily guide it self in to the chain and chain lays smoothly. A tiny lil amount of finish or metal will screw ya up. Just make it a Pin head. Optimally, I do this before putting the sprocket on the wheel. But can be done after. Test by walking the bike and watching chain ride sprocket. Have a pencil and mark any where it trys to ride up and off the sprocket. Can be maddening but when you get it running smooth, it a a pleasure again.
 
You do not have to although it would be easer to. (I am lazy) Remove the master link of the chain from the motor side and remove the rear tire. Remove the 9 bolts from the sprocket. File teeth.

Or just put the kick stand down and file the teeth that are not covered by the chain and rotate tire to expose the teeth that are covered as needed. Alls you really have to do is knock off the edges and round the teeth, that are driving the links of chain away from seating properly. It does not have to be perfect, just unobtrusive. Test by walking the bike and mark bad spots with a pencil on side of sprocket and file again. This is how I do it when I forget to check/file them first thing when I put a kit motor on a bike. I am some what lax with my personal bikes.

Some times it is difficult to really understand each other in text only. Have patents. We will have you up and running ASAP. Half the fun is assembly and over coming these lil "pull your hair out problems"

It will be OK
 
Looks to me like it is the front sprocket that needs the grinding, as I posted at the beginning of this thread. If you do not have the puller you would have to order one, as I dont know any other way to remover the drive sprocket. Maybe someone else can post an alternative way to remove th sprocket.
 
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