Two cycle oil
- Thread starter gphil
- Start date
rustycase
Gutter Rider
I just don't know abt the consequences of changing lube oil that may have different lubricating ingredients and capabilities.
But it seems to me, if you are speaking of a chinagirl, any current mfg oil will suffice, if used according to the directions on the container.
An improvement in oil quality should bring you increased power and longevity when you switch to it.
Perhaps the only problem that might occur would be from built up carbon and ash coming loose and getting blown out the port after bouncing around in the combustion chamber a bit.
However, I don't see large amounts of combustion residue forming UNLESS someone had followed the engine manufacturers advisory, and ran a 16:1 or 20:1 mix in their engine for break-in.
With today's oil quality, I feel 32:1 is abt the most oil that should be run in a current production engine.
and that's ALL MY OPINION !
pls consider others!
Best
rc
But it seems to me, if you are speaking of a chinagirl, any current mfg oil will suffice, if used according to the directions on the container.
An improvement in oil quality should bring you increased power and longevity when you switch to it.
Perhaps the only problem that might occur would be from built up carbon and ash coming loose and getting blown out the port after bouncing around in the combustion chamber a bit.
However, I don't see large amounts of combustion residue forming UNLESS someone had followed the engine manufacturers advisory, and ran a 16:1 or 20:1 mix in their engine for break-in.
With today's oil quality, I feel 32:1 is abt the most oil that should be run in a current production engine.
and that's ALL MY OPINION !
pls consider others!
Best
rc
rustycase
Gutter Rider
Tnx phil,
...yet I've got to precaution...
I AM a hack, yet when I'm rude and crude abt some things, I'm rather cautious when firing up and operating a brand spankin' new engine.
I change rpm frequently, back off when I feel it may be building heat, or encountering a load, stop and give it a complete cool-down, and never, ever run a new engine close to top rpm.
I tend to be quite a bit harder on established, well-run-in engines, though.
Well, not even that, anymore...
I drive like an old lady, now.
Kinda embarrassing!
rc
...yet I've got to precaution...
I AM a hack, yet when I'm rude and crude abt some things, I'm rather cautious when firing up and operating a brand spankin' new engine.
I change rpm frequently, back off when I feel it may be building heat, or encountering a load, stop and give it a complete cool-down, and never, ever run a new engine close to top rpm.
I tend to be quite a bit harder on established, well-run-in engines, though.
Well, not even that, anymore...
I drive like an old lady, now.
Kinda embarrassing!
rc
motor_bike_fanatic
New Member
I have heard from more than one person that switching between conventional and synthetic oil can do serious harm to or drastically shorten the lifespan of an engine. My father also told me that when mixing oil, if the engine manufacturers instructions differ from that on the bottle, follow the engine manufacturers instructions. I have had four engines. One of them snapped a mounting bolt after a couple months and I never used it again. One was a centrifugal clutch and the one way bearing failed. One lasted a year before the rings went. My current engine is almost a year old and runs like a champ. I have always followed the engine manual's instructions for mixing, regardless of what the bottle said. I have never had any problems, except for my first engine, with the rings going because I was using marine oil. I now use air cooled oil, and any air-cooled synthetic oil will do the job. I currently use universal 2 cycle synthetic oil which I purchase at walmart. For how cheap these engines are to replace, I say do what you can to get it running the way you want, run it till it dies, then get a new engine. Thats my two cents.