Total newb with problems

illbill713

illbill713

New Member
Ok, so I put on my engine kit to my bike, right. So everythings on, I have an older Huffy ladies model bike that I used for this. The bicycle was originally a three speed with handbrakes but I decided to boy a single speed wheel with a coaster brake, I kept the handbrakes on though. Anyways everything was going good, I put the chain on and I can't pedal. I can't pedal with the clutch pulled in, and I can't pedal it like a normal bike. In fact the rear wheel will only roll about an inch either way. Anyone know whats going on with these? Help is greatly appreciated.
 
i would have to hear more details but one thing it may be your clutch wont disengage causing your motor to lock the rear tire try leaning on the seat and pushing the bike if it turns over but is hard its the clutch?

you could try taking off the motor chain and pedal around and make sure its not the bike itself causing the problem

let us know whats up
 
First, Welcome to THE Forum! Your clutch cable is not tight enough to dis engage is my guess. Use some pliers and pull it tight @ the arm on the motor. Push the arm till it's tight. Tighten it and try it then. (c)
 
Saddletramp1200 said:
First, Welcome to THE Forum! Your clutch cable is not tight enough to dis engage is my guess. Use some pliers and pull it tight @ the arm on the motor. Push the arm till it's tight. Tighten it and try it then. (c)
Click to expand...
Here's the man with the answer. He's an old fert, but he's built a few bikes.
Tighten the clucth cable and give it a try. You can confirm the cable is too loose by pushing in as far as you can on the clutch actuator arm and try moving the rear wheel. It takes some force to get the arm to move so you might want to wrap a rag around it so you won't hurt your hand. It takes more force than you'd think but properly adjusted the cable and handlebar lever will disengage the clutch. If the clutch still doesn't disengage let us know. There are a couple of things we can suggest to free it up.
Tom
 
I'm having the same problem. I have tightened up the clutch arm as far as it would go and then tightened up the clutch cable. Still I can't get the clutch to disengage and allow the back wheel to move.
 
While we are here...
Does anyone have a link to the Tutorial where you need to break loose the grease and clutch bearings on a brand new engine. I guess sometimes the clutch assembly can sit in a warehouse for quite a while. Anybody remember this?
 
i know my motor is completly takin apart and sitting in a box i didnt know the clutch plate was suposed to spin freely till i repaired my motor on my bike

so i need to do that to break the stuff loose and lube
 
WildAlaskan said:
i know my motor is completly takin apart and sitting in a box i didnt know the clutch plate was suposed to spin freely till i repaired my motor on my bike

so i need to do that to break the stuff loose and lube
Click to expand...

It is a great tutorial with pics and all. Basically, if you had the engine mounted and the drive chain on the rear sprocket (with clutch handle pulled), you open up the clutch plate, remove the lock screw and the adjust nut and then place a heavy duty screw driver in between 2 of the posts and apply quite a bit of pressure. Then you will here a "POP". Then the clutch will spin freely.

Where is that link?
 
If you've tightened the clutch cable and it still wont engage then the clutch pads are probably stuck due to sitting like that for so long. Just ride the bike around and the clutch will come free
 
Try the old 'hammer' trick before disassembling the clutch.
Remove the clutch actuator cover. There is a steel pin protruding from the center of the engine drive sprocket. Use a plastic head hammer or a block of hardwood and give that pin a few whacks with the hammer. Don't beat it to death or use metal to metal but don't baby it either.
Many times the clutch pads will 'pop' loose if you simply push the clutch actuator arm in as far as it will go. The spring is strong so you might need to wrap a rag around the arm and use your hand. Caution: Do not beat on the arm with a hammer, just the pin in the sprocket.
If the clutch still will not come free then you can try the other side but you'll need to readjust the clutch after taking it apart.
Tom
 
The clutch actuator cover on my engine is extreemly difficult to remove, I am unable to shift the screws holding it on. The drive cog on mine was difficult to move but not locked up solid. I attempted to move the actuator cover to free it just so I cold get the chain on. In the end I managed without having to take it off and once the chain was on it freed up nicely.

I can't understand how it's possible to get the chain on if the drive cog is completely seized.
 
The drive sprocket can be turned even if the clutch is engaged. You're rotating the crankshaft along with everything else. It would be easier if you removed the spark plug too.
You need to get the screws loose to remove the actuator cover because there are parts inside that need periodic maintenance/lubrication. Try a screwdriver that fits the screw heads and tap on the handle of the driver with a hammer. There are tools available, impact drivers, but as long as your screwdriver tip fits the screw properly you should be able to get those screws out.
Tom
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top