too much space between dust cap and bearings

[Rnroutlaw]

Well, I got the motor kit on and it looks great! Took it for the first test run and the chain keeps popping into the spokes. The chain tensioner broke. I went and bought a pulley to use and the same thing happened. Upon further review it looks as if the chain is not lining up correctly from the rear wheel sprocket to the motor. So I believe the issue is with my rear wheel and I take it off to find that I have a 1/4" gap between the dust cap and the wheel bearings. Here are some pics. Please help before I junk this whole bike!

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Maybe theres someone here on this board who lives close to you, & you could just bring your wheel to them???

 

[xPosTech]

Did you have a jam nut holding the brake arm on? It looks like the jam or lock nut that holds your axle adjustment is missing. The jam nut is a thinner nut than normal. It's the nut that fits on the inside of the dropouts when mounting the wheel. It gets tightened up against the cone nut. Like locking two nuts together.

Also was the brake arm locked to the chain stay?

Ted

 

[xPosTech]

Are you anywhere near BGJoe? In Ahia?

Take the whole bike if you go see anybody.

Ted

 

[Rnroutlaw]

yep the brake arm was locked to the chainstay but I took it off when I put the sprocket on. No jam nut whatsoever just the brakearm,dustcap,and 2 washers then the 15mm nut

 

[Rnroutlaw]

The gap is coming from the non-motor kit sprocket side.

 

[biken stins]

You have had the hub apart before. Maybe recheck it. The vidio on Spooky Tooth makes it look like a piece cake. 2 minuets start to finish. Had to do mine 3 times before it was right. But I ain't the sharpest tooth on the sproket. Hang in there it's a learning process.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Looks like you just need to tighten it back down, just until it touches and the wheel still turns free.

There has to be something there to hold the brake arm to the bearing cap and keep it from turning and re-loosening the bearing cap.

 

[xPosTech]

The cone nuts at both ends of the axle need to be locked with jam nuts. Otherwise they will back off and open a gap. On the brake end the cone nut also holds the brake arm. So two jam nuts against the insides of the dropouts. One on each end.

Any spacers go between the jam nuts and cone nuts and get locked as well. Spacers are available instead of washers. They just look a little better than washers. (If you're as anal as I am.)

The cone nuts are cut for a 15 MM cone wrench - looks like it's made from thin stamping. It's the only wrench that will fit between the jam nut and cone body. Really thin. A regular wrench is too thick to jam it.

Ted