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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by tire, Sep 29, 2010.
that sounds reasonable. i'll try that, and perhaps die, but at least i'll look good.
I'm talking about the bolts used to fasten the sprocket onto your bike's spokes. The grade of the bolt will be stamped on the top of the bolt. US bolts are indicated by radial lines, whereas the metric system uses a numbering guide. Anything up to 10.9 grade should be made of steel/zinc. 12.9 grade bolts (the black ones) should be hardened steel, and are stronger, but more brittle. Here's a useful webpage:
Bolt Depot - Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart
These engines themselves run rather well, it's just the hardware they supply you with is of low grade.
So for the fenders(hey how's it going?), see those little rivet things? hammer/drill them out and replace with bolts of your choice to keep in place. Those dam Rivets give out because of the vibrations, and if you don't secure them properly, the front fender has a nasty habit of trying to wrap around your forks and locking up your front tire. (insert 'o fawk' here) = a 30mph farfegnugen faceplant!
actually... that kit does "Not" come with a 415 chain, and yes you could a #41 but you can also get a quality 415 chain.
ok, going to drill out that rivet. after thinking about it i understand what needs to be done.
and already ordered a 41 chain.
Just go with a 36, 40, or 44 tooth sprocket. The 62 tooth sprocket is geared too low for a decent top speed. Unfortunately, we buy these kits for the motor and caburetor mainly. There just isn't much in there that is super high quality.
Who makes quality sprockets? I'm all about gearing... I don't need a big top speed, I'd rather have the torque, what is the 4:10:1 equivalent to motorized bikes haha.
I don't know what size sprocket will get you that ratio. If I were you, I would just get a shift kit. Go to sickbikeparts.com That way you can run any gear ratio that you want.
Definately ditch the fenders, trust me. After I made a beefier mounting tab the fender itself cracked. Get a set of Wald fenders, about $30.
Don't try to modify anything right off, just get the motor mounted and the bike running reliably before you try and make any modifications. A lot of newbies to this hobby fall into the trap of trying to modify and "correct manufacturing flaws" that may not even be present. Get some experience and some miles on your motor before you do anything.
I can't stress this enough, GREASE THE REAR HUB! Mine completely failed after 250 miles. You may want to invest in a set of heavy duty rims, I got mine from my local bike shop for under $70 for the pair.
Keep any eye on the seat stays, they cracked on my Cranbrook after about 1000 miles.
Oh and you can get 12' of #41 chain from Tractor Supply for $16.
I have many hundreds of miles on the KMC 415HD chain with no failures and it still looks like new, I use a Dupont dry film Teflon Chain lube and ride most of the time on very dusty dirt roads where I live with NO chain issues, I like the 415HD because it gives better tire clearance and holds up very good in my experience. but as always to each their own....it's all good if it works for ya!
I also as Kevlarr has said recommend hub regreasing, I recommend using a good "TACKY" MOLY BASED grease on the rear hub, and while you are at it regrease those front wheel bearings as well, that is the life of those bearings for sure.
I also recommend putting thicker thorn proof tubes in the tires this can save you a lot of grief and makes the bike safer too, 30mph front tire blow out not a nice thing, I had one on the rear go in the earlier days of my bike and it run me all over the road trying to stay hooked until I could get slowed down, the skid mark I almost left was not on the road if you know what I mean.....! so go with some good tubes.