The No Start Mystery of 1 Year and Counting

[Jackmerius Tacktheritrix]

Hello folks. My knowledge of these kits is very very limited so I was wondering if you could help me diagnose and troubleshoot a problem. It's just not starting...
The kit is 2-stroke 80cc Flaming Horse kit from China. I got it a little over a year ago and it was working fine for about a span of two months. Then, in the middle of a ride, it just decided to stop running. I had to pedal it home. Since then, a buddy of mine has helped me get it running again upon which it lasted about 2 weeks, and then died again.
I found out that it didn't have spark so I fashioned my own spark plug wire and now it has spark.
When I finally got it to have spark I was super excited!!! But NOPE, STILL NO RUN. ARGGHGHGHGHGHHH
So for the past year that I've had this bike, it's only ran for the first 2 months (and it was an absolute blast!!!).
I haven't posted this earlier because I've been out of the country (I left the country about 3 months after it stopped working) and it's just been sitting there until I just got back and made the new spark plug wire last week.

So it has spark, I believe it's getting fuel because the spark plug is a little bit wet and the chamber reeks like gas. I've tried with choke on and off, no luck.

I've attached a bunch of random pictures that have to do with the bike in the hopes that ONE of them is relevant. I don't know if the pics will help at all.

Please please help me!!!

Thanks!

Motor: 80cc China
Plug: NGK B6HS
Plug wire is just copper wire twisted over the electrical screws.
No porting done, no modifications besides gutting the exhaust chamber.

The third pic is at TDC w/ magneto.

 

[Jackmerius Tacktheritrix]

I am able to supply more pics if needed. I just don't know what's useful and what's not to you experts.
Yeah the build ain't pretty at all haha but I'm cool with that.

 

[maniac57]

99% of the time, a no spark condition is due to a bad magneto coil.
Your plug wire may have allowed a weak coil to work a bit longer....
I'd replace the coil and see if it runs.

 

[2door]

My suggestion is start with 'spark plug wire' and get rid of that 14ga stranded wire. You don't show us how it is attached to the plug but that is important too.

You say you have ignition. How did you confirm that?

Have you actually checked that fuel is flowing from the tank to the carburetor?

Have you tried a fresh batch of fuel? Mxed fuel has a relatively short 'shelf life'.
What fuel to oil ratio are you using? If 16:1 as most kit instructions tell you, that's too much oil. 24:1, even 32:1 would improve things for you.

How is the wiring connections at the blue and black wire? Those kit push-together connectors are notorious for bad electrical contact.
How about the white wire? Is it isolated from touching any metal parts?

You said the bike has been setting for a while. Any evidence of moisture in the fuel or under the left side, magneto cover? These engine don't like wet magnetos.

Tom

 

[Jackmerius Tacktheritrix]

I just ordered a new magneto coil, I'll replace it and give it a shot...

The stranded wire is attached to the plug using the stock boot and wrapped around the screw in the boot the same way as shown to the CDI box.
I held the spark plug to the head, lifted back tire, and pedaled forward really hard (with clutch disengaged) and I saw the spark plug sparking.
How do I check if fuel is flowing to the carburetor? I take apart the carb and then what?
My oil ratio is at 32:1, because I'm still "breaking in" the motor.
The wire connections are pretty good on there. It's the push-together connectors but I crimped them together super tight. I don't have a white wire.
From the pictures I posted, is my magneto in the right position at TDC? I want to think of every option here...
Also, no moisture from sitting there for a long period of time.

However, there is a development. The bike has always leaked fuel little by little, and sometimes it creates little puddles like the one in the picture.
I can trace the drip from the little screw with the red washer on the carb, as indicated in the picture. The leak is definitely NOT coming from my fuel line or tank, but it IS coming from the carb. The bottom half of the carb is soaked. It is dripping out very very very slowly but dripping nonetheless. My magneto is pretty dry but it's running down the casing (not where it could reach the magneto, but the casing on the side).
I turned off the little fuel valve from the tank and the leak has lessened but is still dripping minutely.
Could the tiny fuel leak be causing my no-start problem? How do I inspect/diagnose the carb?
I'm not sure what is/what isn't a problem...thank you folks for helping me out.

Just to clarify, the fuel is dripping from the screw part. But the entire bottom half bowl-shaped part (which is above the screw) is wet with fuel.

 

[fatdaddy]

Listen to 2door. Fresh fuel, Check connectors, blue to blue, black to black, Then solder the wires with heat shrink to cover. Disconnect the kill switch becouse it could be stuck in the KILL position. You can do all this while waiting for the coil you ordered to come in. YEAH bro, Its probably the coil. About $10 on ebay. This guy ships faster than anyone else.
fatdaddy.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/66cc-80cc-5...arts-magneto-coil-/400654747727#ht_108wt_1151
Cap off the white wire and use it for NOTHING.

 

[fatdaddy]

I just ordered a new magneto coil, I'll replace it and give it a shot...

The stranded wire is attached to the plug using the stock boot and wrapped around the screw in the boot the same way as shown to the CDI box.
I held the spark plug to the head, lifted back tire, and pedaled forward really hard (with clutch disengaged) and I saw the spark plug sparking.
How do I check if fuel is flowing to the carburetor? I take apart the carb and then what?
My oil ratio is at 32:1, because I'm still "breaking in" the motor.
The wire connections are pretty good on there. It's the push-together connectors but I crimped them together super tight. I don't have a white wire.
From the pictures I posted, is my magneto in the right position at TDC? I want to think of every option here...
Also, no moisture from sitting there for a long period of time.

However, there is a development. The bike has always leaked fuel little by little, and sometimes it creates little puddles like the one in the picture.
I can trace the drip from the little screw with the red washer on the carb, as indicated in the picture. The leak is definitely NOT coming from my fuel line or tank, but it IS coming from the carb. The bottom half of the carb is soaked. It is dripping out very very very slowly but dripping nonetheless. My magneto is pretty dry but it's running down the casing (not where it could reach the magneto, but the casing on the side).
I turned off the little fuel valve from the tank and the leak has lessened but is still dripping minutely.
Could the tiny fuel leak be causing my no-start problem? How do I inspect/diagnose the carb?
I'm not sure what is/what isn't a problem...thank you folks for helping me out.

Just to clarify, the fuel is dripping from the screw part. But the entire bottom half bowl-shaped part (which is above the screw) is wet with fuel.

Your float needle is not shutting off the gas in yer carb.its really a very common problem. its an easy fix but ya really got to know what yer doing..
I could show you with pics but this site dont like my camera. theres a couple tricks most people dont know about. My email is fine with my pictures so if ya want PM me with yer email address and I'll stop that drip for you.
fatdaddy.

 

[maniac57]

Engine might be flooded from the leak.
Try removing the plug and pedaling it around to clear out the motor and see if that helps.

 

[2door]

The screw with the red washer is a flaot bowl drain screw. Just try tightening it a little. Just because it leaks doesn't mean you have a float valve problem but you should always turn the fuel petcock off when the bike is parked. Even the best, and cleanest float valves can leak a little which will allow fuel to collect in the engine making starting a chore. Also you should use an in-line fuel filter betwen the tank and carburetor.

Remove the spark plug and pedal the bike for a little, clutch engaged (handlebar lever unsqueezed) then reinstall the plug and give it a try.

I'm still not satisfied with your spark plug wire arrangment. Why not use real plug wire with the proper connections at each end?

You asked about checking fuel flow. Pull the fuel line off the carburetor, turn the petcock on (open) and see if fuel flows from the line. If it just drips you might have a clogged petcock or in-tank filter. New fuel tanks are notorious for dirt, rust and scale which will clog things. If you have a steady stream flowing you should be good.

Get back to us and let us know how things are going.

Tom

 

[fatdaddy]

You mentioned that the entire bowl is wet. It sounds like you're overflowing and the fuel, Just so happens, to be collecting at the drain screw. Make sure the screw is snug, If that dont stop it get back to us. I still think the needle valve aint shutting off the flow like it should which is a very common problem.
fatdaddy.

 

[fatdaddy]

The screw with the red washer is a flaot bowl drain screw. Just try tightening it a little. Just because it leaks doesn't mean you have a float valve problem but you should always turn the fuel petcock off when the bike is parked. Even the best, and cleanest float valves can leak a little which will allow fuel to collect in the engine making starting a chore. Also you should use an in-line fuel filter betwen the tank and carburetor.

Remove the spark plug and pedal the bike for a little, clutch engaged (handlebar lever unsqueezed) then reinstall the plug and give it a try.

I'm still not satisfied with your spark plug wire arrangment. Why not use real plug wire with the proper connections at each end?

You asked about checking fuel flow. Pull the fuel line off the carburetor, turn the petcock on (open) and see if fuel flows from the line. If it just drips you might have a clogged petcock or in-tank filter. New fuel tanks are notorious for dirt, rust and scale which will clog things. If you have a steady stream flowing you should be good.

Get back to us and let us know how things are going.

Tom

Hey Tom, If it leaks AT ALL he has a problem somewhere. And the needle valve is the best bet for that.

 

[dan2015]

I agree with FatDaddy on your problem. Sounds like your needle valve which controls fuel into the bowl, then your floats will rise to correct level and valve will then stop flow may be your issue. Easy fix if that's your problem. Back in early eighties my dirt bikes always had problems with those!

 

[Jackmerius Tacktheritrix]

Thanks, peeps! I'll check these out tomorrow and let you guys know what's up.
Ya'll are awesome.

 

[2door]

Hey Tom, If it leaks AT ALL he has a problem somewhere. And the needle valve is the best bet for that.

I was just going by what he said, that fuel was leaking around the red washer. To me that would say the drain screw was loose. But, a properly adjusted float is always a good idea too.

Calls for a shoulder shrug, I guess, and a smile.

Tom

 

[fatdaddy]

I was just going by what he said, that fuel was leaking around the red washer. To me that would say the drain screw was loose. But, a properly adjusted float is always a good idea too.

Calls for a shoulder shrug, I guess, and a smile.

Tom

Hey Tom, My clue was what he said in post #5. ("THE whole bottom part of the carb is soaked.") And considering crap dont leak UP, only down, since gravity was invented anyway,LOL. I'm guessing float needle and it just so happens to be gathering at the screw. But that probably wouldn't cause his NO START problem. Even flooded it should still pop a little.
fatdaddy.