Sprocket instead of wheel for chain tensioner

I actually prefer the stock nylon rollers over those sprocket rollers.

Keeping the chain from rubbing on the tire requires a different fix... you have to move the rear sprocket out a bit, & if your tire is real wide?, you also have to offset the engine to keep the chain straight.
 
Venice Motor Bikes said:
I actually prefer the stock nylon rollers over those sprocket rollers.

Keeping the chain from rubbing on the tire requires a different fix... you have to move the rear sprocket out a bit, & if your tire is real wide?, you also have to offset the engine to keep the chain straight.
Click to expand...

Hey,

By wheel i meant the chain tensioner wheel. Any idea on how to fix that?
 
sometimes the flat plate that holds it needs to be bent into position. there are several ways, you can take it off and use a work bench/clamp/hammer. or if it's just a slight adjustment, 2 6 inch crescent wrenches (one on each side of the plate) will give you more than enough leverage to bend it without removing it. then realign it, directly under the chain line. you want the chain to feed onto the sprockets as close to the center of the chain as possible.
when you look at it from behind the rear wheel, the entire chain should be in-line.
 
Your tensioner bracket has to come up vertical directly under the chain.
My guess is left the wheel on the way it came, put the long side of the bracket on the outside of the chain stay, and now it leans in.

Reverse it.
Put the long side mount inside the chain stay and just put the tenisioner on the other side of the long bracket.

2_BluePantera2SDDL-1280.jpg


I have to it that way on most builds.
 
Leo is correct. The tensioner bracket needs to be bent/twisted so that the wheel aligns with the chain. If you chain is not riding properly in the wheel, this is your problem.

Unless you have perfect chain/sprocket/tensioner alignment using a sprocket will only make your problem worse. Lots of information here on ways to get everything lined up correctly.

Tom
 
As was suggested above, the tensioner bracket will need to be twisted to get the tensioner wheel to align with the chain. Your chain also appears to be a little too tight. You want 1/2" to 3/4" of slack.

Tom
 
Hi Benjamin. Just throwing you another option for your consideration. You could invest in a chain mender and eliminate the tensioner all together. It takes some time and careful planning to get both tensions (pedal chain and engine chain) correct.

This can normally be achieved by adjustment in the dropouts and sometimes shims between the engine mount and engine case. Sometimes guys have used a half link on the pedal side after getting the engine side perfect.

The obvious advantage of eliminating the tensioner is it can't hang up and plow into your spokes if it's not there. This can save a lot of money and a trip to the hospital.

You will also find that lining up your rear sprocket to the engine as close as possible will make your bike quieter and more efficient.(faster)

Good luck whatever you decide and have fun
 
2door said:
Leo is correct. The tensioner bracket needs to be bent/twisted so that the wheel aligns with the chain.
Tom
Click to expand...
Absolutely.
I have a 10" crescent wrench for tweaking the mount to be in line with the chain travel and indeed an important part of chain alignment.

On a bit of a tangent, I work with a lot of full fendered beach cruisers and usually go through the hassle of cutting notches for chain clearance, but tried this on my latest build, just bobbing the back fender off where to comes to the drive chain.

70ccNewLeftMountChain.jpg


It still has a good 3 point mount and keeps and road water away, just a cleaner look.

Just getting into the electronics now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top