Spring-loaded chain tensioner

A

Airbuzz

New Member
Good Morning Forum members,

I'm looking to purchase a spring-loaded chain tensioner. On my latest build I need (2), one for the slack in the top of the chain and one for the bottom. I can't make the chain any shorter.

The last spring-loaded chain tensioner that I purchased was (I believe) from Sick Bike parts for about $24...I don't think they are selling them any longer.

If any body has any sources for pre-built ones, I would greatly appreciate the link.

Thanks again.
 
Airbuzz, I am not sure what part of the country you live in but if you have a TSC, Tractor Supply in your area they make a nice little spring loaded tensioner thats works great for about $10.
I just used one on my last build. I have made several different types, but it's not worth the time once I found these for $10.
If you want more info. I will send you a pic. of it.

John
 
I was looking for the tensioner cause I need the rubber wheel.. I have a livefast spring tensioner, but after trying to use it, a spring tensioner won't work because the tensioner has to be close to the sprocket to pull it to clear the chain stay... anyway, I saw 9.99 on the shelf but they were out of stock when I went :( when my stock tensioner got ate the 1st time it damaged the good bearing idler wheel, leaving me with the crap 1 from the spring tensioner..
 
Thank you dvddtz!

This one is exactly the one that I had in mind. For forum search and reference purposes, I'll post pic's of my completed build with dual chain tensioners. If any other pre-fabbed spring-loaded chain tensioners are out there, Please post the links for future reference.

Thanks.
 
I'm new to this forum. I was just wondering if you guys have tried shiming the rear motor mount with aluminum sheet so you don't need a tensioner?

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I hadn't thought of it, but I'll take a look. Good suggestion.....Uhmmm, I'm not feeling very smart right now. Why didn't I think of it? Ah. This weekend I'll give it a shot. However the shimming may be a bit too much, more than a 1/2 inch. Maybe there is some sort of spacer I can find. Thanks.
 
While building my new 4 stroke onto my Gary Fischer bike I got bike to the point of test drive,all was good but thought how awful the idler tensioner was with its smooth plastic wheel I never saw it spin,and now after buying bike upgrades,handle bars,wide seat and such, when reassembling tensioner ,upon tightening ,bolt snaps in two.Since I felt the part was so cheap to begin with I didn't want to pay $6 with $17 shipping for crap so have found this one,here is the link I will try to make it work,my chain is #410 and this says its for a #41,is this the same thing except they just don't bother to use the zero.Any expert thought here ,greatly appreciated Sprocket Idler
 
Hey Jim! Have you noticed how much interest there is in a quality chain tensioner? nudge nudge wink wink
 
Ok this is for a #410 (what they call a #41)chain follow this link Sprocket Idler just sent for one.

They are

The Parts Store and Service Center
51073 Milano Drive
Macomb Michigan 48042
586-677-2640
586-677-2694 fax
[email protected]
Monday - Friday 9-6
Saturday 9-4
 
Finfan said:
Hey Jim!* Have you noticed how much interest there is in a quality chain tensioner?* nudge nudge wink wink
Click to expand...

Finfan, Don't put any more ideas in the poor guys head. I think he is swamped with MB parts right now. Although you do bring up a good point. I have never used one of the kit tensioners. I think that is the only real "JUNK" in the kit.
I generally make my own, but they can be pretty time consuming. TSC has a pretty decent one, but I don't think you have them in the Desert Southwest do you. My son lives in Fountain Hills.

John
 
Junster said:
I'm new to this forum. I was just wondering if you guys have tried shiming the rear motor mount with aluminum sheet so you don't need a tensioner?

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Click to expand...

I did something similar. On the rear mount, I added a nut on each stud as a spacer between the engine and the tube clamp. I took out a couple of links (a half link would give you a little more flexibility), moved the rear axle, and was good to go .

120 miles on it so far and the chain seems fine.
 
Hey Airbuzz remember that when you shim it your taking slack on the top and bottom. What I mean is a 1/16" shim is really taking up 1/8" of chain. So maybe you don't need as big a shim as you thought. Also flyJSH's idea of just shiming the rear mount spacer seems like a good idea too. I think I'd use washers though just so they supported a bigger area on the soft aluminum. A shim takes alot of slack out try just putting a popsickle in there to test it. Your bike will ride alot smoother with no tensioner.
 
Thanks Junster. I cut one shim last night from some .250 thick aluminum, and plan on cutting a couple more from .050 thick aluminum tonight. The shims will match the foot print of the mount. No washers will be used as shims for me. I may put a layer of thin hose rubber in between the shims as a bit of a damper. That mount has to be firm.

Thanks.
 
Airbuzz your welcome. I mean you don't see chain tensioners on motorcycles for a reason. We are getting these bikes up fast enough that a tesioner failure can really get you hurt. I know some of the frames have to use one but if you can get away without one take the time to do it. I usually pull the clutch going downhill and sometimes get going over 40 easy. If you accidently let go of the clutch and it threw the tensioner into the spokes? Or just spinning that fast exploded the your tensioner wheel and let all that slack chain loose, it would really hurt.
 
You're right Junster. I'd like to get away from all chain tensioners. I was a little disappointed this weekend. Worked on a .250 thick and (2) .063 thick shims, only to find out that I need longer studs to accomodate the the thickest of the three. Paitience on these builds is required.
 
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