Some tips and tricks 4stroke 7g

Discussion in '4 Stroke Bicycle Engines & Kits' started by xlander, Dec 26, 2014.

  1. xlander

    xlander New Member

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    Glorious hard learned tips of the build and trial runs. Bullet key for those that don't know bullets points. - Means main idea at hand -- means sub topic to last main idea.

    [I offer this as help. Following my lead is at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for how you interpret my words or do what I suggest. If you get hurt or injured that is a part of this hobby. In partaking in this hobby you take your own life and limb into your own hands not mine.

    - The throttle grip comes with a little post on the inside of where the screws are. The idea here is to drill a hole into your handle bars, to make it not slip around the handle bars when in use. I personally did not opt for this because a mistake is 20$ or more to correct. If you drill your handle bars in the wrong spot you have to get new ones to do it again. If you drill your handle bars for this you weaken their integrity as a tube. So what do you do. Get out a Dremmel, angle grinder, or bench grinder and carefully grind away that stud. Careful not to cut away the plastic that will be gripping your bar. (Note it CANNOT be pulled out it has a head in the plastic.) Remember china wants your money a penny at a time. More if they can get it. Feel free to try and dry fit I couldn't.

    - DO NOT cut away the kill switch wires as suggested in some assembly videos. Make this a conscious decision after reading all of my post.

    - Okay to start. (Not doing this could mean your motor pulling down the mount brackets and loosening the chain. This is a problem. Not for just the obvious. If your motor slacks the chain it destroys a bit of its life. What happens is the chain slacks the motor winds the slack around daisy wheel that drives the chain. After this happens it slams your motor with an instant torque value that is way higher than it can handle. The result is a very hard shut down. (My motor has not been running as nice since this event.) Make a bar of aluminum with Three holes. (Should look something like this typed out diagram -----> ([0===0°] ) (I attribute all of my major problems to this design flaw. ...The reason for this post that is above is included in that attribution.) One for the idler pulley one to be a hinge point that will attach to the included idler bracket. One very small hole for a spring. (spring tension will very but don't make a system that keeps the spring over stretched. It should be stretched only slightly for base tension when at rest.) Once you have crafted this bar add the pulley to it. Then drill a hole in the included mounting bracket. Mount the newly crafted swing bar to the bracket. Take a cable clamp (Not a hose clamp.) they can be found in the electrical department of Home Depot. Apply the clamp on the upper rear tune that extends from rear wheel to seat. I found that clamping above the break posts keeps it from sliding down. Use a longer than included bolt. Make a pile of washers to move the spring away from your chain. Hook the spring between the washers. Then hook to the end of the lever. Once I am familiar with this site I will post link or pics. ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT. The spring should not be too tout. If it is always at full strength it will fail faster. Instead after breaking my 3” 20# home depot springs to find out that they will break apart. I went back to home depot got another spring pack. Has 2 and 3 “ springs at 20#.) Also for some little premade brackets. From the cabinetry section where cabinet knobs and the like are. The brackets were about 2 inches long each in a pack of three if I remember right. The bracket has two holes. One at each end. Got an appropriately short enough 1/4 -20 bolt with nylock lock nut. Bound two of the brackets together but moving freely with the bolt. Attacked the bracket to the above mentioned tube clamp then the new 2” 20# spring down to the idler arm I made. Since these brackets and springs are varied in number and size. Feel free to mix and match brackets, and springs to fit your bike. My bike is a really tall fit bike.
     
  2. xlander

    xlander New Member

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    - Use loctite if you wish. My preference is to use gasket silicone. For all bolts that can vibrate. It seems to break apart less than loctite. Feel this out at your own discretion.

    - Note that there should be 16 total black m6 allen key bolts. They are of different sizes. You need to dry fit these to the parts they are for. 4 will mount motor to plat 4 will mount plate to mount brackets. 4 will mount transmission plate to motor. 4 will mount belt tension pulley to transmission plate. (be careful messing with the ones you use to mount the plate to the brackets the plate will strip them out upon removal. getting a few extras of each will not harm you.) Also if you didn't go to crazy getting everything out of the bags some things are actually grouped together even if it doesn't seem like it. I think only 4 bolts are different than the rest. These are the one you have research to do. Unfortunately I opened and sorted before realizing the grouping thing so I can't tell you what was grouped. I won’t swear to it but if there are four m6 bolts in the clutch bell bag those are the odd ones. I think they are the ones that are either for mounting motor to plate or transmission plate to motor.


    - On to the wiring issues as I see them. Okay so I realize this motors exhaust is not to extremely hot when running correctly. I also realize I have burned my hands many times thinking I know something isn't hot. So with that said. If you look at the kill switch it is wisely placed under and between hot motor and the exhaust tube. (Note heavy sarcasm with the word wisely) Another note if you crash killing the motor is easier to do from the handles than the motor under your leg. Also if somehow the clutch fails and locks into the clutch belt your with the throttle sticking… unlikely but bear with me. You want a way to kill the bike within easy reach.

    --Okay how to correct this. If you want to remove that switch all together. (to make it work with the throttle kill switch) Pull off the motors pull cord assy. Then pull off the panel behind that. (covers the magneto wheel.) (Before doing this take a marker out and make two marks on the plastic exhaust cover. Make the marks above and below where the spark plug wire comes out between the exhaust and magneto cover. Ill explain later.) Now pull off the bottom nut of the exhaust panel. This should allow you to remove the switch from the motor. (If you like leave it there and make both the throttle switch and toggle switch work.) (If you want remove the exhaust cover plastic panel. So you can cut away what is going to cut your spark plug wire. As I said I will explain later.)

    -- Disconnect the black wire from the ignition coil. then undo the ignition coil top bolt. Route your throttle kill switch wire under the tank. Cut off the bullet connector ends. Make a black or green wire with a eyelet connector end crimped at the end. Then take a barrel crimp and splice this to the green throttle cable. Now place the eyelet one the screw at the top of the magneto. Tighten the bolt.

    --Next take the black wire that was on the switch. You will need the spade connector unless you happen to have that size. cut off the wire so that you will have the spade on one end and excess wire running off it. Simply barrel crimp this to the yellow wire. The end now your throttle mount kill switch works.

    --As stated if you want both switches wire them accordingly. Personally the throttle one works just fine without the extra. Just remember the switch system is basic. It works by ground. If the electricity is grounded before it gets to the plug. No spark no running motor. So if you want both wire them in series… switch on is on. Button not pressed is on. Pressing the throttle kill will kill. Flipping the toggle will kill.


    - The belt tensioner. This can kill you or help you. It may or may not be obvious but this bigger of the two transmission pulleys has a cam lobe. This lobe is designed to adjust belt tension during assembly and in the future.

    --Okay so the basics. If you have your motor assembled with the clutch and transmission plate. Looking at the motor on the clutch side. The adjuster pulley as I said has a cam lobe. Look up cam shaft if you don't know what this means. When you mount the four screws for this. Make sure that your lobe extension/high point is either up or down not left or right as you look at the motor. The up or down position is your choice. This will play with both chain and belt tension. Mostly it is decided by how the belt needs to be tightened. I have done two bikes one was up the other was down. The variable that changes is your bike. In my case I have a late 90's specialized mountain bike. It is a 26 inch frame that is TALL stance. (I chose this frame because of the chromoly metal. Aluminum frames are rigid and make you feel vibration more. So steel and chromoly are better. After all what are you worried about peddling extra weight? You know you’re putting a motor on right?)
     
    #2 xlander, Dec 26, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2014
  3. xlander

    xlander New Member

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    - Lastly Tire flats ( My solution has around 400 miles going through dessert areas or on roads bordered by the dessert. I have no flats or leaks yet.)
    Everyone that rides motorized bikes whether gas or electric may run into a lot of flat tire problems. I have a potential pain in the ass solution. I suggest building up to this solution as you get flats. Otherwise the sticker shock can hurt you.

    --To begin get yourself 2 thick thorn resistant tubes, and two thorn liners for your tires. Search around don't just take your walmart or bike shops word for it. The tubes you want are THICK in FULL circumference. When pinched it should almost be 1/2 inch. That means 1/4 inch thickness of tube exposed to the tire when inflated. A lot of tubes are thick only on the tread area. What you learn with experience is that once you have the tread area solved you only get thorns and such through the side. ( My bad luck I had managed to get a 16 penny nail through my side wall after the first run. Now keep in mind they are going to get blown at some point. I can't recommend slime right now because you are supposed to sacrifice this lamb to future greatness. (Actually I don't recommend any slime like things with my system.)

    --Okay now you have blown one or both of your expensive tubes. (18-28$) I know it pains me too. First check the rim liner make sure it is in good condition. If it is bad, ripped, gone, hardened or otherwise. Go to a real bike shop. Ask for rim wrap. Tell them you want the tape not another piece of rubber waiting to rot. (The rubber thing that is on your rim.) You usually poke your valve through it and the rime when doing a tube. In some cases it is a vinyl clear plastic, they are garbage too.) (I have More than 10 years on my old bikes tapes. I have less than 5 years each on the rubber liner.) What’s next? Well rip those tubes out. Cut off the valve. Next make a continuous slice through the inner diameter of the tube. When your done it should look like it just might wrap around and hug another tube. When you cut the valve out try to make the cut out as small as possible to make neither a space around the new valve or a clump of rubber.

    ----This is an extra side note that I cannot validate because I don't want to spend the money. Instead of a thorn liner for your tire I have heard you can go to home Depot and get a fat max tape Measure. (No I am not an HD rep. That is all that is in my area.) Cut a piece f the tape measure to fit the inner diameter of your tire. (There is some math equation to do this that I don't remember.) the person that originally wrote the idea suggested binding the two ends using safety wire. In retrospect I am thinking the best duct tape you can find rather than a small poking wire. Then line that with a wide friction tape used for baseball bats and the like. If you go the wire route. Make sure your twisting side of the safety wire is faced out to the tire not in to poke your tube and flatten it. (IF YOU GO THIS ROUTE LET US KNOW HOW IT GOES. IF IT WORKS IT SHOULD BE IMPENETRABLE ON THE TREAD AREA.) (REMEMBER fat max is a brand of tape measure at HD)

    --Okay now onto preventing your valve stem from being cut. This is cause by two things; a crappy worn out even if it doesn't look like it rim liner, and a tire pulling your tube around. Maybe you’re like me and you originally thought in your own neurotic way that wiping all that powder off your tire was a good idea. Well it isn't. Leave it on everything that comes with it. If you don't have the powder on everything get some. If you’re wondering, what is this miracle powder? It is talcum. I don't know how to get it in a pure form that doesn't smell all prettied up. I do know you should not breathe it and you should clean up as soon as you’re done with application. (See: potential causes of cancer in countries outside the USA. According to some European companies and some testing studies. Like some drugs, the harm depends on who you ask.) Okay so that means get some head and shoulders with the talcum in the ingredients list. Wear some kind of mask or hold your breath till you can walk out of the plum area. (I have those masks because of my work. No they are not dust masks. they are carbon p95 filters)

    --Now make sure your tire is clear of all previous thorns. Yes this means running your soft cutable skin through the entirety of your inner tire area. Once clear apply the above mentioned talcum powder. Now place your tire thorn liner or if you chose, place your fat max tape measure liner.

    --Now do the same thorn check and removal for the tube you just cut up. Wash it if it had slime or some other compound like that in it. Once clean, free, and dry. Apply talcum powder to this tube as well. Then wrap the cut tube around your new THICK FULL CIRCUMFERENCE THORN RESISTANT tube. Push the cut and new tube inside your tire with the liner.
    (Talcum check time.) Applied to: tire, sliced liner tube, and new tube. Done? Good!

    --Put one side of your tire bead onto the rim.

    --Press the valve through the rim tape and rim.

    --Fit the remainder of the sliced and new tube inside your tire.

    --See how it gets bunched up and stuff moves around? Line it up get that thorn liner straightened out. Make sure the tube isn’t twisted. Make sure tube is not rotated around the rim making the valve cockeyed.

    --Seat the other bead. I say that like it is easy. You will need a metal tire pry bar. With the extra tube jammed in there getting the bead seated is almost like doing it with the tire partially inflated.

    --Okay now you fought and fought. If you follow the tire bead around you will probably notice it is not uniform. This is not good. Well that is doe to having to fight it on at near inflated pressure. Get some gloves you’re going to wear out some skin.

    ---Start rocking the tire back and forth to get the bead aligned… Then place a small amount of air in the tube. I mean small like 5lbs or less. Rock the tire around again. Once you have the bead like it is supposed to be inflate the tire to appropriate pressure. (This may have to be inflated deflated and rocked many times to get the bead right.) It is important or you will have wheel hop and wobble when you ride, or worse yet the side of the tire that has the bead looser may pop out while you’re riding and you will have to fix it on the side of the road.

    --Tire is done mount that and ride.
     
    #3 xlander, Dec 26, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2014
  4. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

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    Forum tip,
    Paragraphs!

    Hit the Enter key to put spaces in your unreadable wall of text .......

    My eyes glaze over and who knows, you may have had something interesting to say
    but I will never know because I can't read your words.
     
  5. xlander

    xlander New Member

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    I added some spacing between bullets. I am by no means a spelling, grammar, punctuation or paragraph formation nazi.

    More importantly in case you missed where this was all in another post that was even bigger. This has been retyped about 6 times because the website has a short timer inactivity loggout that doesn't recognize keystrokes to show your not AFK.

    So forgive me. After rewriting this entire BOOK (Insert proper tone for effect) for your TLDR self 6 times I am feeling far to lazy to fix it any further. Blame the webmaster for this. I worked way to hard to make this better than it is. Feel free to copy and paste to word and edit it then re-post if you like. My mind is tired of reworking this topic now though.

    As I said though I have legitimately rewritten this six times because the site is not recognizing keystroke as an active use. Which is kind of an oxymoron... it is a written forum... writing should stop the timer.

    Also this is to help you. IF you are TLDR user then what can I say good advise isn't for you. Dang adhd short attention span world. Just can't get it on demand enough.
     
  6. scotto-

    scotto- Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder

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    7g = good golly give gas & go gary goodman :D
     
  7. xlander

    xlander New Member

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    So far I've had a good time with mine I'm at 800 miles now... would be more but belts take forever to get from Internet.
     

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