Glorious hard learned tips of the build and trial runs. Bullet key for those that don't know bullets points. - Means main idea at hand -- means sub topic to last main idea. [I offer this as help. Following my lead is at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for how you interpret my words or do what I suggest. If you get hurt or injured that is a part of this hobby. In partaking in this hobby you take your own life and limb into your own hands not mine. - The throttle grip comes with a little post on the inside of where the screws are. The idea here is to drill a hole into your handle bars, to make it not slip around the handle bars when in use. I personally did not opt for this because a mistake is 20$ or more to correct. If you drill your handle bars in the wrong spot you have to get new ones to do it again. If you drill your handle bars for this you weaken their integrity as a tube. So what do you do. Get out a Dremmel, angle grinder, or bench grinder and carefully grind away that stud. Careful not to cut away the plastic that will be gripping your bar. (Note it CANNOT be pulled out it has a head in the plastic.) Remember china wants your money a penny at a time. More if they can get it. Feel free to try and dry fit I couldn't. - DO NOT cut away the kill switch wires as suggested in some assembly videos. Make this a conscious decision after reading all of my post. - Okay to start. (Not doing this could mean your motor pulling down the mount brackets and loosening the chain. This is a problem. Not for just the obvious. If your motor slacks the chain it destroys a bit of its life. What happens is the chain slacks the motor winds the slack around daisy wheel that drives the chain. After this happens it slams your motor with an instant torque value that is way higher than it can handle. The result is a very hard shut down. (My motor has not been running as nice since this event.) Make a bar of aluminum with Three holes. (Should look something like this typed out diagram -----> ([0===0°] ) (I attribute all of my major problems to this design flaw. ...The reason for this post that is above is included in that attribution.) One for the idler pulley one to be a hinge point that will attach to the included idler bracket. One very small hole for a spring. (spring tension will very but don't make a system that keeps the spring over stretched. It should be stretched only slightly for base tension when at rest.) Once you have crafted this bar add the pulley to it. Then drill a hole in the included mounting bracket. Mount the newly crafted swing bar to the bracket. Take a cable clamp (Not a hose clamp.) they can be found in the electrical department of Home Depot. Apply the clamp on the upper rear tune that extends from rear wheel to seat. I found that clamping above the break posts keeps it from sliding down. Use a longer than included bolt. Make a pile of washers to move the spring away from your chain. Hook the spring between the washers. Then hook to the end of the lever. Once I am familiar with this site I will post link or pics. ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT. The spring should not be too tout. If it is always at full strength it will fail faster. Instead after breaking my 3” 20# home depot springs to find out that they will break apart. I went back to home depot got another spring pack. Has 2 and 3 “ springs at 20#.) Also for some little premade brackets. From the cabinetry section where cabinet knobs and the like are. The brackets were about 2 inches long each in a pack of three if I remember right. The bracket has two holes. One at each end. Got an appropriately short enough 1/4 -20 bolt with nylock lock nut. Bound two of the brackets together but moving freely with the bolt. Attacked the bracket to the above mentioned tube clamp then the new 2” 20# spring down to the idler arm I made. Since these brackets and springs are varied in number and size. Feel free to mix and match brackets, and springs to fit your bike. My bike is a really tall fit bike.