Send me all of your crappy stock plugs!

solokumba

solokumba

New Member
Seriously.
She loves the crappy plug!
Last week I purchased (2) B6HS plugs and a new "high performance" plug wire.
I've been trying all weekend to get the B6HS dialed in. I've tried every gap (within reason) and still cannot get them to perform like the stock plug that came with my 48 HT.
What gives..
Is there some secret you guys are holding out on me?

Now... I've only tried (1) of the new plugs, but when I use it it misses a few times when it is cold and then it tends to level out when it warms up. But after warm up and I try to go WOT I can tell there is quite a performance hit. She just sounds totally starved for something.

I can cool her down and put any of the old stock plugs in (I have 3) and she simply cranks WOT and all. No missing at all... at any range.

I guess I'll try the other new plug next...
Unless you guys have encrypted some white paper and only give access to the worthy :)
 
all i can say is, that's weird. at worst, you should see no improvement by switching plugs, and at best, a little better starting, mileage, and performance.

but, don't expect too much. it's only a spark plug.
 
It's Only A Spark Plug!

Ah Ha!
Now I know I have stumbled upon some vast sanctum of sparking plug information and electrical haberdashery.

2739079090_c69cb23f42.jpg
 
Solo,
Just for laughs...pick up a Champion 811 (L82C) plug and try it. Get back to me with the results. I'm very curious.
Tom
 
Another thing to consider is the fact you may have a defective new plug. It has happened to me on more than one occasion.

Jim
 
Maybe it is a lemon plug...
I've got an 811 and a B7HS on order via my local motorsports dive along with some other things. I'll try them too. Can't hurt.
 
one thing to consuiter is that some plugs are "hot" plugs and others arent. the way to tell is if the little thing at the end sits way down in there its a cold plug. if it sticks way out its a hot plug. iv ran both and can never tell the difference. i even ran that amazing so called e3 for a year till it gave up the ghost. no difference. save your money. buy a champ or an ngk. buy some more gas and keep on riding. its just a spark, it still arks. ride on.

mobike91
 
mobike91 said:
some plugs are "hot" plugs and others arent. the way to tell is if the little thing at the end sits way down in there its a cold plug. if it sticks way out its a hot plug. 1
Click to expand...

Actually that's not correct - well maybe - not sure what you mean by "little thing" laff The heat range of a plug is merely it's ability to transfer heat from the electrode and insulator: Here's some pics:

NGK Spark Plugs USA
 
NGK Spark Plugs Heat Rating

The major structural difference affecting the heat rating is the length of the insulator nose. A hot type spark plug has a longer insulator nose. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug has a longer distance between the firing tip of the insulator, and the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Therefore, the path for the dissipation of heat from the insulator nose to the cylinder head is longer and the firing end stays hotter. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug also has a greater surface area that is exposed to more of the ignited gases and is easily heated to higher temperatures. A colder spark plug functions in an opposite manner.

The heat range must be carefully selected for proper spark plug thermal performance. If the heat range is not optimal, then serious trouble can be the result. The optimal firing end temperature is approximately between 500°C (932°F) and 800°C (1472°F). The two most common causes of spark plug problems are carbon fouling (< 450°C) and overheating (> 800°C).

Pre-delivery fouling

Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature of approximately 450°C (842°F). Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator nose when the self-cleaning temperature is reached. When the heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the firing end temperature will stay below 450°C and carbon deposits will accumulate on the insulator nose. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator nose to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.

If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator nose can usually be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be cleaned / replaced and the fouling cause identified.

Overheating Cause:
Spark plug heat range too hot
Insufficient tightening torque and/or no gasket
Over-advanced ignition timing
Fuel octane rating too low (knock is present)
Excessively lean air-fuel mixture
Excessive combustion chamber deposits
Continuous driving under excessively heavy load
Insufficient engine cooling or lubrication
The most serious result of selecting a heat range that is too hot is overheating. Overheating will cause the electrodes to wear quickly and can lead to pre-ignition. Pre-ignition occurs when the air-fuel mixture is ignited by a hot object/area in the combustion chamber before the timed spark event occurs. When the spark plug firing end (tip) temperature exceeds 800°C, pre-ignition originating from the overheated insulator ceramic can occur. Pre-ignition will dramatically raise the cylinder temperature and pressure and can cause serious and expensive engine damage. When inspecting a spark plug that has experienced overheating or pre-ignition, blistering on the ceramic insulator and/or melted electrode can sometimes be found.

As a guideline, among identical spark plug types, the difference in tip temperature from one heat range to the next is approximately 70°C to 100°C.
 
Whole thing here is the stock plug is a 4 range plug, going to a NGK B6 means you've already got a cold plug for these motors and a B7 makes things worse. A NGK B5HS is in the correct heat range, is better than stock, and should last longer than anything else being Japanese instead of Chinese :)

For the up-grade to that a NGK BR5HIX or BPR5HIX Iridium plug would be the best you could obtain.
 
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