Schwinn Occ Chopper With 5sp Shifter kit DONE!

J

joanthandirtbiker

New Member
Well after several weeks of building I have finally completed my schwinn occ chopper 5sp bike. I first bought the sick bike parts shifter kit but it failed greatly and was way too flemesy to take the force of a 66cc engine. So, I set off to build my own bearing mount plate which was then welded to the frame. I used 2 5/8 self alining pillow block bearings along with a 5/8 keyed rod.

I endeded up using the sick bnike parts freewheel assembly but i ran into another issue. The bottom bracket which the pedal cranks hook onto wernt long engough to clear due to the extended thickness of the freewheel and sprocket cluster.
On the back wheel i made a tool to remove the original single speed freewheel gear. On ebay i found a 5sp DNP Epocch freewheel cluster and it monted right up!

In the end it was all worth all the work. I have rode around for a few hours on it and have experenced only the drive chin on the right hand side falling off upon fast accleration. Otherwise everything has worked well.
I have gotten up to 40 mph in 4th gear with 5 gear still open.
 

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now thats a jack shaft ! I really love how you handled the small space constraints on that bike , could you post a few more pics of the rear sprockets ? GREAT WORK
Gary
 
can you make another one for a stingray chopper and sell it if you could how much would you want? i need something like that for my chopper
 
Looks super! I did one a while back and found that I mostly used 2nd, 3rd, and forth. In first you can climb a wall and fifth was hairy for a OCC! Takes a while to get used to down shifting when comming to a light. That setup looks heavy duty, nice build.
 
why use that shift kit at all? why not use the jackshaft with a second sprocket with a freewheel adapter, to drive the jackshaft with the pedals, and when the engine is driving, the freewheel adapter would spinn. this would alow for less chains, and more sturdy construction.

so left side of the jackshaft would have the engine driven sprocket, and on the rightside you would have a fixed sprocket to the rear, AND a freewheel adapter with a sprocket thats driven by the pedal cranks, from a short chain from the crank to the freewheel sprocket.

staton inc sells those adapterers, and sprockets.

it would be cleaner, and less trouble.

Brian
 
Brian,
I think this link is exactly what you are talking about.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=12284



Brian Rismoen said:
why use that shift kit at all? why not use the jackshaft with a second sprocket with a freewheel adapter, to drive the jackshaft with the pedals, and when the engine is driving, the freewheel adapter would spinn. this would alow for less chains, and more sturdy construction.

so left side of the jackshaft would have the engine driven sprocket, and on the rightside you would have a fixed sprocket to the rear, AND a freewheel adapter with a sprocket thats driven by the pedal cranks, from a short chain from the crank to the freewheel sprocket.

staton inc sells those adapterers, and sprockets.

it would be cleaner, and less trouble.

Brian
Click to expand...
 
Check out my solution in my Jesse James thread (Old title)
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=54782
I used a similar but slightly different jackshaft, and used a small freewheel adapter on the jackshaft to avoid the expensive and fragile pedalcrank freewheel.
I also use 2nd, 3rd and fourth mostly to avoid chain overrun damaging the cassette and spokes.
 
These pillow block bearings are new to me, what sort of RPM and load are they rated for? In some quick googling I see a lot that say "normal" duty, can anyone clue me in in the frame of reference for what "normal" is?
 
They are plenty strong and capable of much higher horsepower than any chinagirl build. Pillow blocks are a great way to support a jackshaft if space allows. Easy to find and afford as well.
 
Agreed maniac ;)

If it's any reassurance, I owned a Quicksilver MX ultralight with a Rotax 447UL (40hp stock), the 1" diameter prop shaft supported by no more then a LP-16 pillow block... if I broke that pillow block housing, the (pusher) prop woulda cut my tail off, an unrecoverable situation if ever there was one lol

Using the 5/8" shaft blocks & bearings for jackshafts on our bikes is not likely to result in any problems at all, overkill I would say - but as mentioned, inexpensive & commonly available :)
 
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Actually extreme overkill for a bicycle, but stronger is ALWAYS better.
But to be honest, price and availability is what I love.
 
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