Maniac57's Jesse James version 2.0 build

maniac57

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Maniac57's OCC version 2.0 build

Well. It never sold and I'm tired of looking at it.
So.
This time I'm using this sweet little 49cc engine.


The stock frame with invisible mount.

I'm waiting on parts for some major frame mods.
It's going to get a Schwinn 4'' rear wheel and tire for starters. I'll be grafting the Schwinn oval lower main frame tube and rear wheel section from the seat post back onto the WCC frame. The future goal (as finances allow) is to allow me to use Jim Wilson's new billet jackshaft 3-speed driveline. This is the main reason I'm doing this bike over.
I'm going to try and get the benefits of Jim's outstanding drivetrain on my usual Maniac57 microscopic budget. Hopefully my only cash outlay will be the 3-speed hub, and freewheels.
This is going to be a LOW DOLLAR build so don't bother yelling at me about any part or technique you are not willing to donate or buy for me.
Here's a link to the sweet 3-speed setup:
http://www.pedalchopper.com/new-stingray-3-speed-transmission-system-jackshaft-component/

With the shifter hub, I don't mind if it won't sell. I'll just keep it for myself! :)
 
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Looks like you'll have a cool build.

And I, for one, like the idea of doing it for little or no money. There's just something cool about doing it with stuff that's lying around or is easily obtainable.

One of the guys who hung around these forums five years back or so had a signature line that said something like, "If it's broke and you can't afford to pay for it, use weird stuff to fix it".

I've sometimes thought about modifying that. Something like, "If you want it and don't want to pay for it, then use weird stuff to make it".

All the same, I can't see how that rear motor mount works.
 
If you look careful at the bottom pic, you can see the rear mount plate against the bottom of the large rock, a bit above and behind the crankset. This bolts to the rear motormount holes with no spacer. One steel strap runs down to behind the crank and one runs to the bottom of the seat tube with the plate welded between them at the correct angle to sit flush against the motor mount boss.
Look close at the second picture and you can see the strap running down below the engine to the crank BB, and just barely see the rear strap running out behind to the seat tube.
It's rock solid and I'll be sad to remove it when the rear end changes.
I like how it seems to just float there off the front mount. Every single person who sees it thinks it's only got a front mount at first.
 
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Okay. Here are some better pics of the invisible engine mount.
Hope this clears it up.


And here's the front homemade U-bolt/muffler clamp mount
 
This is gonna be a fairly slow build since I'm scrounging for parts and have basically zero budget (as usual) and I've decided there is no point in running it like this since it will probably have to be changed substantially with the mods I have in mind...
I don't really love it like this enough to do the work twice. :)
My usual problem with documenting builds is the fact I get so wrapped up doing I forget to take pics of the stages when I finally get off my duff and actually DO something. I'm done before I remember I wanted pics.
I've decided I'm getting too sloppy and apathetic about my builds so I'm thinking my ego will make me do things a bit nicer if all the interweb experts are watching my progress just waiting to expose my every weakness or misstep.
I would like everybody to feel free to chime in with suggestions or comments if you like.
I will listen carefully and consider any input or ideas from the peanut gallery.
dnut.bf.
 
Well it never fails. The BEST way to find something you are searching for is to find something you are searching for.
I finally work out a way to get a OCC rear section I can afford for my Jesse James chopper build, and this little jewel shows up this morning from a local scrapper I deal with. Bartered FREE in return for repairs on three other bikes he found including a nice J.C. Higgens (I am also trying to talk him out of this untouched original)
Freewheel seized and chain rusted solid, lots of surface rust on frame and forks, seat torn, but everything is there except a chain guard, centerstand spring, handgrips and one handlebar bolt.
Notice the chain rusted solid in the shape of the sprockets. This was neglected bad for quite a few years to get this far gone.
A little dry rot in rear tire, but nothing serious. Rear rim has a small dent but is straight, brakes are intact although the cable is rusty and they hang.
Aired up the tires, busted loose and greased the seized freewheel, replaced the chain and it rides again!
I love how I have been searching for one of these bikes for a couple YEARS and only a few days ago finally made a deal to get some frame parts and a rear rim to redo my Jesse James chopper, and suddenly BANG! This shows up out of thin air!
Murphy's law applies to scrounging also




*does happy dance making cars stop to point and giggle*
Here's the sweet old J.C. Higgens 24'' cruiser I'm trying to get my sweaty little mitts on...
Tank is perfect but headlight/horn is missing top and a bit squished. Otherwise original unmolested survivor!
 
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well,it's looking more and more like I will be happier building the OCC rather than trying to get the WCC looking like I want.
The simple fact is the WCC seating position bites. It feels like I have to hang on to the bars to keep from falling off the back. The OCC is MUCH more comfortable to ride even without a motor, so I've decided to just harvest the forks off the WCC and do some swapping.
Looking better already with the WCC forks and wheel.
I like the fat looking front end better and the cartridge bearings are nice as well!



This was a straight easy swap with everything fitting no problem. The only issue I see so far is the centerstand is now too short.
 
Can't you just raise the fork tubes in the triple trees?
Looks as if those forks might have slightly better geometry, with a bit of caster.
 
I did try that Theon. Dropped the fork tubes about three inches and flipped the bars for clearance. It is limited by the extremely low bottom frame tube and , although it was slightly better, it still felt horrible to me geometry-wise and I could go no lower without dragging the frame.
The stock OCC forks have a kickout built into the tripleclamp and it also feels floppy and unstable to me. I never liked choppers with so much rake the bars want to flop over sideways.
This setup however seems to fix that issue quite nicely.
It rides very nice like this and feels almost like a regular bike steering-wise.
This is the best steering feel setup by far.
 
i definitely think you should still use that wcc bike...go fd dude...you wont regret it, simple and adoring...

but you really do have a knack for this "cheap" build style, not the workmanship but budget wise...i appreciate that...

as i also love the "cheap" building aspect...the whole occ kids friction bike, like $19 in materials and most was found stuff = free

keep up the great work tho bro...
 
and heres a pic of my higgins, sorry to intrude...lol

picture.php

i traded a weedwhacker i found in the woods for this bike...
picture.php


i figured since i dont live on top of a hill anymore i could break out the 175lb human powered device...not the bike tho thats all of 15lbs...
 
Nice! I'd kill for a decent banana seat to work with on my chopper build. Rare as hen's teeth around here....
 
Wow realy I will look around this summer and see what I can find, see one every so often in my travels and garage sales. Does it have to be really good or can you recover it.......Curt
 
Did the front brakes today.




Still may need to grind more clearance inside brace since tire is not inflated yet...
But it lines up perfect with both pads in the center of adjustment range.
 
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