Running control cable

rocksalt27

rocksalt27

Member
I'm constructing a chainsaw bike right now using a child's bike and an old Poulan I rebuilt. The engines mounted to the rear rack and I'm using a brake handle for the throttle control. How have you guys run your cables successfully? I don't want too much of it exposed so that some smartass can yank on it and make me jump into traffic.
 
Use a bmx brake cable...cut cable and noodle to length and a swivel stop/cable knarp...

Lube the noodle plenty and boom done
 
I'm not quite understanding your reasoning..."I don't want too much of it exposed so that some smartass can yank on it and make me jump into traffic"

Cables should be run so there are no sharp bends or kinks. That is the important issue.
Maybe you want to hide the cables? There have been some innovative ideas offered here. Some have drilled the frames, even the handlebars, and ran the cables inside the frame/bars. That has always been for a clean 'look' not to keep someone from yanking on them. I've personally never heard of that happening. But anything is possible, I suppose.

Tom
 
don't want too much of it exposed so that some smartass can yank on it
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I'm assuming he means a frame with cable bosses where parts of the cable are not surrounded in a sheath. My frame has bosses so the straight lengths of both derailluers and the rear brake are exposed cable. I added bosses for my motor throttle cable. I love having them. Makes removing and lubricating the sections of cable sheath so much easier. Plus you can join two pieces of cable if you don't have one long enough (which can be a long run on a rack-mounted setup).

I never thought about someone yanking on the exposed parts. Sounds kinda kinky to me.
 
I think this is way down on the list of things to worry about.
Concentrate on keeping things tight and straight.
 
How have you guys run your cables successfully?
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That can be an issue with a DIY (chainsaw) motor build. Don't worry about that "someone yanking on the exposed cable" thing. But if you do the throttle cable all enclosed in sheath from the handlebars to the motor on a rear rack, you'd better make sure it is well secured to the frame at the front and rear points. Otherwise it won't work right. That little half-inch (at most)of cable pull from the lever can be absorbed by a floppy cable sheath, making your throttle a nightmare to control.

A major problem I've noticed with DIY's is that the carb's throttle spring is too weak to return the lever when you release it. You have to remedy this somehow. That's why I like having cable bosses on the frame. I added an extra spring before the boss on one of my builds. I'll show an example or two if you'd like.

Let us know how that chainsaw build is going.
 
OK, so I think I can set up the cable fine. I also had the idea of an extra spring to help the throttle return. Now I'm having an issue mounting the saw to where the sprockets line up and won't cause the chain to pop off. I'll have to just mess with it some more and get back to you, but I think I'm going to have to mount the engine first and adjust it's position until it sits straight. I am afraid of it pulling the rack to the right when it throttles up and popping the chain off anyway.
 
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