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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Wheel Rush, Jul 13, 2008.
Darn good stuff, Thanks Much !
I have been teaching myself recently to true up wheels. I turned a potato chip into a nice straight wheel, only to realize toward the end that is had two pretty bad dings in it. I knew they were there when I started, but I though most of it would come out.
They went from 1/2 out side to side to less than 1/16", but the teo flat spots are too much for a motorized bike.
Guess that's what I get for buying a $1.50 Puch.
Is anyone familiar with a Shimano 26 x 2.125
Hub Shim CB 12G 36H ?
I am presently installing Drive Chain Sprocket and something isn't right.
There is a star catch type washer on the coaster brake side, and very little room for the coaster brake arm, so, I have not put it on yet.
But when holding the wheel by it's axles, when I spin it it unscrews the bearing assembly on the other side, . . is this because I don't have the brake on yet, or could it be something else ?
Bikeguy Joe, whats a teo ?
Whoa ! Wait a minute, my fault sorry, I just noticed the, pedal chain sprocket is not on the wheel assembly!
I guess that might have something to do with it, give me a minute or two, let me figure this out.
Ah Oh Better get Mako !
Are there any tutorials on this site, cause If I need a removale tool to take the chain sprocket off the old wheel and put it on the Shimano, I don't have one !
Tell me I did the right thing !
I just took the whole assembly , sprocket and worm gear and changed it with the Shimano worm gear, . . it seems to work OK ?
OK, I have it spinning when holding the wheel by the axle with both hands one on either side of the axle bolt, . . I don't have the brake on yet, my question here is, the right side pedal sprocket side is
un- threading at the bearing cone as the wheel spins, is this normal ? Will the un-threading that is occurring stop once the brake is installed with a nut holding it in place ?
Your reply is appreciated.
I assume teo=the, a typo.
I need pics, single speed coaster brake hubs aren't something that works here in the Rockies, especially when you consider that I'm carrying a load more often than not.
If your asking me for pic's, hold on I might have it going again, I think I may have either messed with the brake arm then set the other side bearing cone and it was fouling some how in an inter reaction with the brake, I think one should be adjusted before the other ?
, . . . . or the brake arm may have been hitting the bolt heads and causing it to not to spin correctly and or feeding and unthreading to the opposite side, . .
at this point I really don't know but it seems to be turning smoothly without un-threading, the axle was feeding into the sprocket assembly, meaning it was getting shorter on the coaster brake side and longer on the pedal chain sprocket side, now that I have the coaster brake in place it seems to be working.
I'm about to get the engine sprocket in place actually bolted down as I have replaced the bolts with a better bolt, but opted for a shorter one, and have had some considerable trouble getting the locker on then there just wasn't room for the nut.
I have bolted it down with the old long bolts, that are already worn and stripping, now to go back and replace with the shorter bolts, as the compression has allowed me to get the nut on.
But thanks, if I run into more problems with this I'll let you know.
Hey are you on the eastern or western slope ?
A teo is the same thing as a removale...
I now am pretty sure that tightening down the sprocket to the rag is causing the wheel to not spin , . . as if the brake is on.
In post 23, I asked if anyone had experience with the Shimano,
Is anyone familiar with a Shimano 26 x 2.125
Hub Shim CB 12G 36H ?, It is essentially a nice looking wheel, but I have never seen a coaster brake assembly like this the brake arm rest on a, "segmented star arrangement", of sort, has anyone dealt with this, before I have to go take a picture ?
Anyway the wheel will not spin now that I have tighten down the engine wheel sprocket, what changed ?
Are the bolt heads interfering with the brake arm?
No, It has gone from moving the brake arm freely to very hard moving it, This I believe is being caused by the tightening of the engine rear wheel sprocket ? I can't find anything on this, (Shimano 26 x 2.125
Hub Shim CB 12G 36H), the part the brake arm holds onto looks like the clutch center adjustment nut, (star shaped) Have you seen this before ?
All that I can tell you at this time is that D--mn Hub must be super sensitive ! I loosened all the bolts on the sprocket and tightened them
slightly until the, (altered by adjustment), brake arm, cleared, . .
this left the bolts not very tight, but close to snug, and it the wheel spins OK.
I'll true it out a little and tire it up for a try, . . don't know what else can go wrong, . . but that was a little frustrating, .
Ok, to close out this thread;
Runs, we'll find out how well ?!