Riding the clutch

[jeffpas]

Newbie question:

Obviously riding the clutch in a car is a no. But can you clamp the clutch to bypass the engine and ride the bicycle all day, if you have to? Does pedaling with the clutch "down" wear it out quickly.
I'm just thinking you know like if you are out motoring and run out of gas, or have an engine problem and have to pedal all the way home.

 

[jeffpas]

OK it looks like this has been discussed before.
I'm not sure if its really been settled though, whether just leaving it permanently clamped and riding around all day will cause excessive wear on the clutch.
Probably like other people when I first heard about 2 strokes my thought was "It could be a motorbike OR a bicycle" but as I'm putting the thing together its looking like you really need a 2nd bike for just plain riding.
If anything the weight but just looks like a lot of dragging parts when its clamped in "neutral", whatever your term is for that.

 

[curtisfox]

I think you answered your own question, disengaged clutch, there is a lot of drag through the gears. Best is take the chain off and on...........Curt

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Once you 'dedicate' a bicycle to being motorized, it's never going to be a comfortable bike to pedal.
The best thing you can do to make pedaling easy is to take the chain off (like Curt said)... But it's still going to be heavy.

I suggest getting a 2nd bike if you just want to pedal for the day.

 

[Mossy]

Plan on breaking down and having issues to work out. Over time you will get to know your creation... Most of the problems people have are from assuming something... Clutch and gears your weight the engine power is going to be something that has to work together... The expensive way is to just throw parts at it not knowing what your doing and eventually stumbling on the right combination... Another is to study forum posts and learn how each component works from others experience... When it comes to the chain I put a wiperman 1e8 chain on it for the parasitic drag... Night and day difference... I build from parts I know work for me... Not trusting in the random junk and blind luck of the draw... As for pedaling a motorized bicycle ? I've done it I'm very leggy and also carried it before... You have to plan for the possibility... I had a plastic bag with parts that fell off tied up to it... It's quite a show sometimes... And a few times made it back to the barn with parts hanging off broken frame shouldn't have run or just holding on by one bolt with the others broken off... Gas cap vibrating off and soaked in gas is another one... This can be a dirty gritty hobby with a lot of frustrating flavorful moments... It's about what you can make of it not what it is out of the box expecting it to exceed your wildest dreams...

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

My bike is one of the rare builds that's easy to pedal with or without the engine. That's because I have a centrifugal clutch and a double freewheel triple chainring shift kit. The pedals don't move if only the engine is going. The engine drive chain doesn't move if only the pedals are being used.

Other shift kits only have one freewheel and one chainring. The pedals don't move if under only engine power. However, if using the pedals only the engine drive chain does move.

 

[jeffpas]

I am experimenting straight off with a 48 tooth rear sprocket instead of the stock 44. I want the better torque and don't care about top speed. I'm thinking too this will put less stress on the frame.
Its also a bit easier to pedal freewheel

@Mossy I just want a backup ride to get to work in case my car breaks down. Your post is not encouraging lol.
Whelp, I hope it isn't constantly breaking down and frustrating. There are other sites that say the 2 stroke is pretty simple and reliable.
But being the middle of winter still, building it slowly. I just got the sprocket today. Soon as I figure out what to do about the crazy rear axle bolt I'll put it on

 

[Mossy]

The 2 stroke is something you want to go over everything from the beginning then there not too bad and if you keep spares your going to enjoy it more... The more you do to it the better it gets... The more you're going to understand the maintenance... Basically the case halves the crank and cylinder assembly and the clutch is going to be something you want right everything else is something you can do with the engine on the bike... The gasket surfaces the casting flash and loose bits... Sometimes the seals on the bearings are still on the inside of the crank and those will have to be removed... The clutch pin can be dislodged or not installed properly... Or anything really... So many people posted problems that could have been easily solved by checking everything... Once everything has had a chance to wear in and you know from messing with it... Then it's going to be reliable based on the effort put in... Just a little grease on everything from day one... What most people don't get about new engines and it could be any engine... The tool oil used to machine and make the parts doesn't get cleaned off that residue made for cutting metal needs to be blasted with brake cleaner... The grease the factory uses is the cheapest grease... Something like Lucas.. bell ray has a grease... Maxima Castor blend 2t oil 20:1 in fresh 91-93 non ethanol... Ngk 6 or 7 HS gapped .O28 - .026... You can shave the woodruff key and retard the timing... Automotive spark plug wire... The spark plug wire made a big difference something I found 8mm msd ... A business card gaps the mag make sure it's sanded and clean for good contact... All free or low cost things then if something happens it's less things the first 100 miles is the learning curve or 2 tanks of gas.. I had 2 2# rolls of flux core .030 wire in my bike before I got a tank through it most of it spilled... 500 miles into it was when it came together...