removing and adding chain links on motorized bicycle chain

Solved problem, or at least I hope I did got new chain and a KMC "missing link" I sure hope it can handle going 30+ I also got a link pin that I can put in if the "missing link falls apart. (Rolled up the "speedy" chain and shoved it into a box and then onto my a hole in my back bike rack, just in case)
 
Autocycler said:
Great lesson. If only the kits came with such thorough instructions:)

A motorcycle chain breaker is a worthwhile investment. It beats dremeling off rivets.

Thanks Cruiser!
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Just bought one of the breakers in the pix from Amazon for about $14. With shipping...was $17. Here's the title you can use if it's what you're looking for: Park Tool CT-5 Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool. Was a bear to find...since I had to head to Park's site to get a name...then do a search & it came right up from there.

Local Harley shop wanted $50-65 for one just like it. Guess they were VERY proud of their stuff & wanted me to be as well. If I were to paint Harley Davidson or put some of their over priced decals on my tank...would they still want to be as proud??? .trk
 
"Procedure for Shimano® Chain
Some chains, including Shimano®, use chain rivets which are peened. This creates a "mushroom" effect at the ends of the rivets, which adds to the strength of the chain side plates. When a rivet is pressed even partially out, this peening is sheered off on the side pressed by the chain tool. If this rivet were reused, it would create a weak link at that rivet. In the image below, a Shimano® rivet is shown in an optical comparator, which magnifies the rivet. The original peening is seen at the bottom of the rivet. The top of rivet has the peening sheered off. This top section was pushed through the outer chain plate."
I thought maybe I crazy thinking chain pins were peened, but I did a double take on my bicycle and it has all shimano parts and theyre peened. I remember back in the 70s whenever I messed with a chain I needed to grind off the end of the pin to repair it. I dont ever remember having a chain tool back then, was too poor lol.
 
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i just took a good look at this. THIS is the reason chain tools break most of the time. the proper way to use it is to have the back of the chain up against the solid back end of the tool. the chain goes over that ridge, so it's actually inside of it, to hold it in place. (see thumbnail.)

if you do it as pictured, the ridge breaks off because of the force applied to it.

our problem, and the reason Park makes 10 different kind of chain tools, is we have two different sized chains on our bikes, and the heavier motorcycle chain won't fit in a standard breaker properly.

but for your bicycle chain, make sure it's lined up with that slot inside the chain, and the chain up against the back, and it'll last a lot longer.

(not trying to step on your toes, paul, just trying to help out...)
 

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well, i don't want to get the wrong one and it won't work so should i just get the ct-7?????the one made for the size of chain.....except its 40 dollars.....
 
well i need to know for sure...i dont want to buy one that wont work.....should i just buy the ct-7??????its made for the bigger chains
 
I,ve had the Park Mini Chain Brute for many years(C T -5) and it will only fit bike chains Ive found myself using it a lot more than I thought that I would.
My motor chain is very small and will not fit in chain press( #25 H d a) made out of same material as helicopter timing chains. I just used a vice and a tapered punch to push out the bushing pin. The presses in chain factorys are very fast and hard and will create a rivetting effect. Take a pin completly out of used link that u dont need -look at both ends and u will see they are exactly the same. If I had system like yours, I would have one for my motor chain also. Just take your chain into store and make sure the press that u buy is the right one. that way u can be sure.
 
Pablo said:
Yeah - this is the thread I was looking for last night!! Nice little breaker. What kind/style of breaker are the others talking about that keeps, well, er breaking?:)

EDIT: So when you reassemble the chain, without a masterlink, what do you use to round over the pin that you just put in?
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I use a nice well made chain breaker that cost $12.00 from either Lowes or Home Depot, in fact it's identical to the tool I used in motorcycle shops for over twenty years. Pablo, I had the same question too regarding how a chain link could be used for a master link. There simply is not enough of the link pin exposed to properly or more importantly, successfully peen over the link side plate without it binding or coming off while under load.I just carry a spare master link, although they are a bit large and heavy! :)
 

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lilffihn said:
you got it at lowes or homedepot.......in what sections of the store
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The chain breaker was bought at Lowes in the nuts,bolts and screws section.
It was in a pull-out drawer with #41 chains and other stuff. I was surprised to
see it actually! So I snapped it up.
 
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