reed kit

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Cool. Hopefully they'll turn up in a few days. I want to keep the mikuni so I'll need an adapter of some sort but shouldnt be a problem. cheers
 
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Hi Rocksolidperson, just a quick question, when u added the reeds, did u have to jet richer or leave as was. If u did need to jet richer, how much, just so I can order a few jets beforehand. I gotta wait a few extra days for the reeds as RSE's gasket supplier posted them instead of courier, but no problem. RSE are pretty good company to deal with, hey. Cheers buddy
 
Mate the reeds caused the engine to go over rich, this is because of the no blow back, going down a size in jet will increase performance, even rock solid say this on the instruction sheet
 
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Ok, thanks mate, I'll order 1 or 2 smaller main jets & 1 smaller pilot while I'm waiting for the reeds. Cheers mate
 
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Hi Rocksolidperson, well reeds now on their way, (I'm like a kid at xmass). Jetting down 1 size will be back to a 70, which I'm pretty sure is 0.7mm, the jet the carb came with stock. Hey r u going to add more tuning tips to the perfect tuning thread u started. I think u did a good job mate, a lot of good info in there that'd b helpful to a lot of people. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
Hi Rocksolidperson, well reeds now on their way, (I'm like a kid at xmass). Jetting down 1 size will be back to a 70, which I'm pretty sure is 0.7mm, the jet the carb came with stock. Hey r u going to add more tuning tips to the perfect tuning thread u started. I think u did a good job mate, a lot of good info in there that'd b helpful to a lot of people. Cheers
Click to expand...

Yea mate, ill be doing another post which is based on jetting and fuel air mixture, for people with stock or modified engines.
 
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Hi Rocksolid, jetting correctly aint that hard but some seem to have a bit of a hard time with it, & an incorect mixture can have a big impact on perfomance. Hey I was thinking the reeds would restrict airflow to a degree, hence thinking u'd need to jet richer, but the fact that u gotta jet leaner would seem to indicate that they really aint restrictive , so they've obviously done a good job with the R&D. Cant wait to c how they go. Cheers mate
 
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well the reeds turned up, very well made assy. I have a NT carb I can run at the moment as this is the carb the spigot is made for, with 14.5mm ID, but I'll ask Tony to machine me reed block cover with 21mm OD spigot bored thru at 16mm to fit the mikuni. If I lightly relieve the carb at 12 & 6 O'clock to clear the socket head screws in the cover it'll still seal on the Oring with the tuned length spigot. Cheers
 
Ivan and Rocksolid, What sort of performance and speed are you guys getting out of your reed equipped motors? I'm considering buying a RSE Stg 3 reed equipped motor but would like some performance detail. Would you consider it to be 'racey'? or a cruiser? Say could you keep cars honest taking off from the lights?
 
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I dont have RSE motor, just the head, pullstart & reeds not yet fitted, waiting 4 manifold to suit mikuni 2 arrive. Also have portwork/ramping, x chamber, adjustable cdi & shiftkit. Definitely not cruisey. Can exceed 60 k speed limit no prob. Keep cars honest, r u serious, never tried. Its a motorized bicycle, not a hyabussa. The RSE HP3 b well worth getting, they do good pruducts. Cheers
 
Thanks Ivan for the info. What got me seriously interested in motorized bikes was once I saw a guy on one: he was at the lights, pedaled a few revolutions and all the while kept up with traffic, cruising at just under 60km/h. I just finished rebuilding a Hyabusa motor, must say, beautiful engineering.
To keep in the theme of this thread Hyabusa's (and a lot of other motors) have reed valves to control the crank/gear case and cylinder head vapor system.
 
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Hi Robby, if u rebuilt a hyabussa u'll have no prob with these, so long as uno 2 strokes. RSE r the best of IMHO. They hand picked their caster's in China & they're 70cc, not 66. I wish I knew of them when I 1st bought, wouldnt'a had 2 do bearings as they do. I not sure if they fixed the piston pin boss spacing but imagine they would. With shiftkit I accellerate quicker than stock so keeping with traffic is no prob, I reccomend getting 1 from SBP, & x chamber. Cheers
 
Hi Robb, any stage kit from RSE is definitely not a cruiser, adding reeds will boost your acceleration power from mid-high in short terms speaking. i can keep with a car easy until i bottom out at 60km/hr
 
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Rocksolid's right, any RSE. They tear them right down & build 2 their spec, which is high. U wont hear negatives about them. With a chamber u'll get ur 60k's, it'll vary a smidge due 2 conditions at the time. My best is 67, with a hot motor, cool night, long flat protected from wind etc & lying down over th bike, but how accurate is a phone gps app anyway. Cheers
 
Thanks Ivan and Rocksolid. You are making my purchase decision a lot easier! Unfortunately my 2 stroke experience/knowledge is very limited. I picked up a copy of A. Graham Bell's book '2 Stroke Tuning' to help get me a little more up to speed. Might grab Jenkin's book too. Tony at RSE has been wonderful in answering my email's and seems incredibly knowldgable. Would be a fascinating place to work at! He has another water cooled 'race' motor available that has got my attention, but as he says it not what you call discrete! So I'm contemplating one of his more discrete HT style kit's with a SBP expansion chamber (or just fabricate one), OR a very inconspicuous air cooled pocket bike/large scale R/C motor (like a BZM micro). Come to think of it, most Euro water cooled pocket bike motors have interchangeable water cooled/air cooled barrels and heads, and Tony at RSE might have a possible 'discrete looking' air cooled top end solution to his motor....
 
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Just a word of advise Robby, consider ur intended use when making ur descision as 2 wot motor u buy. If u intend street use know that even these r not really legal here in oz & even tho 1 can get away with it for couple of yrs, when a cop decides he isnt happy with the speed ur doing or is having a bad day or is just an a_s_ hole of a bloke, u can get a pretty savage few fines out of it, read between the lines there mate? As 2 the SBP x chamber, I'd recomend 1. Cheers
 
Ivan, Thank you once again for the sensible advice. The sensible side of me says that a HT style motor a: works, b: fits, and c: is legal looking. You seem to be sold on the SBP shift kit. I was looking at getting a single speed bike (Orbea Carpe or maybe a Redline Monocog/Urbis), do you think I should seriously consider a multi speed bike? After working on race cars all day I have become a little bit of an admirer of simplicity. Well worth the extra pieces?
 
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If u want simplicity go 1 speed. Choose sprocket size well & u'll get bit better top speed , shiftkit adds resistance, but if u have steep hills u'll have 2 pedal assist. Get a Sgt Howard sprocket adapter (c hubs & gearboxes) or if u can access a lathe, a disk brake hub & turn up a offset adapter 2 mount sprocket in correct place off the disk mount, rag joints r hard on spokes, I had 2 have spokes replaced & retensioned twice in a yr. Cheers
 
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Hi Robby, check "ragjoint alternative list" in Hubs Gearboxes & sprockets of this forum. U'll c the offset tophat 4 mounting 2 a 160mm 6 bolt disk brake hub plus a lot of other sprocket mounts. Also get a decent spring loaded chain tensioner from Bike Berry or Pirate Cycles or 1 of the other vendors. Cheers
 
ok, received manifold 2 fit VM16 Mikuni 2 reed cage from RSE 2day. I had got countersunk socket head bolts so that it'd fit & seal on the carbs Oring properly but they werent needed as the cage cover section of the manifold has been thined enough 2 allow proper fitting while still using supplied bolts & keeping it all at the "tuned" length. I'll fit reeds over the weekend & spend day or 2 getting jetting sorted & get back on results. Cheers
 
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